I say its weight because of the way its cracked. That crack could have been in any other direction but it cracked specifically on the inside where the turbos weight is pulling.

 

i started to read this thread. got done with the first page. thought, damn this will be good. saw that it was 176 pages......HOLY COW. 176 pages in any thread on this forum can cover every detail there is to cover in a miata it seems.

 

every teary detail.

The collector is cracked too :(

I shipped it off to ARTech today.

I also shipped off my Hydra for upgrade to 2.7 to fix the repugnant hot start megafail injector dead time failflest

 

Oh and so what are your thoughts peoples about how to keep the turbo manfiold from disintegrating in another 1000 miles? What engineering wonderfulness does this need?

1 million gussets?
mega crane?
super attach exhaust with 1 million bouncy hangers? (downpipe already has flex joint)
RTV or something else spoogy?

 

Crane, AND downpipe support bracket.

 

And me sexing up that penguin tomorrow when i land in reno in my skirt and thigh highs

 

Gussets, built on bracing, send it out to be stress relieved. I realize parts of it get hot enough when the car is running to stress relieve parts of it, but get the whole thing stress relived to be extra sure. Then I'd see if you can fashion a way to bolt the turbo the the spot the AC bolts to and put a bracket between the downpipe and the tranny. Make sure that **** doesnt break.

 

I'm not a welding engineer, nor necessarily a welding expert but I do deal with welding specifications from time to time. That said, I'd be leary of weld's that fail either in the weld (like the other guy showed) or in the HAZ (as Fael's has shown).

Regardless of the application, thermal cycles, stresses, etc. etc. etc. a good weld (at least by our specs) is stronger than the base material. Stronger in static strength, and stronger in fatigue strength.

Now, I don't know Abe and I don't know his work outside of pictures I've seen here so I can't pass judgement. However, like I said before, I'd be worried about weld failures like these.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't brace/support the turbo better, I'm just saying these welds woulnd't meet our weld quality specs...

 

I know you can do that with normal steel, our 4130 racecar chassis, once stress relieved, should have been stronger in the weld joint than the tubes because of the filler rod we used. I have no idea if there are filler rod options like that for stainless.

 

My suggested fix is a smaller turbo.

 

It is mild not stainless.

 

Regardless of the base material, whether it be mild steel, stainless, aluminum, copper, inconel, etc.; the ideal weld will be stronger than the base material and the HAZ will also ideally be as strong as the base material. The reality is that is difficult to achieve but not impossible if the correct filler material is used, the welder/weldor do their job, and any necessary post processing is done.

 

Also perhaps a sliced 45 degree or whatever wedge on each side of where the flange meets the pipe as well as bracing to try to help with the weight.

Sorry fae your pics were too close so i had to use another pic to show it clearer.

 

^So a gusset.

Efini, sounds like you guys put a heck of a lot more engineering, forethought, and over all workmanship into your work than most automotive aftermarket parts.

 

Because racecar.

No, I am pretty sure he is literally dealing with professional level roadrace cars.

 

Sooo what could have gone wrong with my welds?

 

They are not ABSURD!

 

 

ALLOFIT requires an inconel manifold!

 

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