That was my car. I can't disprove your statement but, then again, we don't have any spec Miatas (or tracks, for that matter) anywhere close to here. I did recently run on the temporary Indy track and didn't embarrass myself against some pretty impressive machinery and experienced drivers.
This, in a porky (2,450 lb) street-driven car without any of the safety equipment that would make me comfortable braking later and cornering harder than I did. I was driving very conservatively indeed.

For my power goals, I considered a welded manifold but decided on the FM cast mani because I wasn't interested in having to remove, fix and replace ad nauseum. With the inconel studs (installed with Resbond) and the "high-margin" tranny brace, it's been extremely reliable. Makes power too.

 

I have to correct myself. $32 for that brace & 2.5" clamp is not expensive at all. I thought it was much more, not sure where I got that from.

 

This manifold is proven to well over 400hp in the honda world (Used on both D and B series):

You can find them on eBay for $80

So no. You dont need a tubular manifold for 350hp. Im not sure if the FM/BEGi manifolds flow quite as well, but still...

 

You really don't. 300-350 the logs will do just fine. Its when you start shooting for "ALLOFIT" when tubular is mandatory

 

I would agree with you IF any cast manifolds for the miata were anywhere near that nice. That manifold has a collector, and it's a pretty decent one at that. Also the external wastegate mount that is NOT welded on.

 

You all are making me feel like i half-*** so many things...

 

But did you braize the wastegate outlet like patsmx5?

I much enjoy my 240rwhp begi log setup. i drive the car everyday...

 

No brazing on that freshness! It's held up just fine to 20psi+.

 

I don’t get it. Why don’t just use DP brace like I do and have 0 problems?

 

I broke a thick bracket like that with my GReddy kit 13 years ago.

 

Where did it break?

 

It actually broke the 1/4" thick mild steel bracket about 1.5" away from the bolt hole.

 

Snapped right off the dp. There are a few pics posted on here last time this was discussed.

I managed to snap one too when it was welded directly like that, then re-did it much stronger (instead of welding to dp use a clamp around the pipe) and it held up just fine.

 

Interesting. This was going to be exactly my suggestion, glad to see someone already went ahead and tested it out

 

ah the ol "downpipe ripper" mount. if youre lucky, it doesn't tear a hole in your tubing.

 

Use a clamp just like the factory and no issues.

 

I come back and i get this? Thanks for absolutely nothing.

Those awaiting updates from Team Fail will have to wait for my mani and hydra to come back.

 

whats wrong with the hydra?

 

Upgrading to 2.7?

 

Once upon a time you banned me for trolling I am proud I have influence