Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
disassemble trans to remove input shaft. Attach bellhousing/front portion of trans to the engine. Insert inputshaft and all the other guts, then the rest of the trans and drivetrain.
Duh.
Duh.
Reply
0
0
Reply
0
0
Here is the deal.
With the cover loose, you put the alignment tool in and notice how that **** moves around a LOT. wiggle it around (gently) like a joystick and try to figure out what the MIDDLE of that range is. center it all with the tool in and then tighten down the pressure plate. that'll give you the best chance of making it into the pilot bearing straight and easy.
THEN
with a spare pilot bearing, verify that the input shaft on teh tranny is not fucked up and has no burrs on it. bearing should slide on firmly but easily.
THEN
get your OEM jack and a block of wood or something and put it up under the front of the motor (I use teh A/C bracket) and support the front of hte motor so that when you have the tranny nearly lined up (maybe 2 inches out) all the gaps around the top and sides and bottom are all equal-ish.
THEN
put a tranny jack under the tranny and get it close to the height you need and tweak the OEM jack under the front of the motor to match its angle while maintaining clearance in the tranny tunnel.
THEN
You should be EASILY able to get within an inch of mating. Run your hand around the whole perimeter of the tranny mouth where it mates to the big sheet metal gasket/block and make sure nothing is hanging around in there that would prevent it from fully mating. The starter and neutral switch **** LOVE to hang down in your business and **** **** up.
THEN
while wiggling the bejeezus out of the tranny, try to close that gap. you'll probably get it down to 1/2" no problem. recheck the crap around the space on all sides and start the two top bolts (they are the longer of the tranny bolts). If you can, start the two at 5 and 7 o'clock too. no wrenches, just finger tight so you aren't forcing that gap down smaller than 1/2".
THEN
with the tranny jack barely supporting the tranny, wiggle the **** out of it while you lay on your back and push toward the motor. seriously, up, down, sideways, every which way but loose, any which way you can, and any other clint eastwood + monkey movies you can think of.
THEN
when you've done this for about 3 minutes longer than your strength lasts, it will pop into place easily. finger tighten the four bolts you started and put in the rest. win.
if it doesn't go in with that, something is installed incorrectly.
With the cover loose, you put the alignment tool in and notice how that **** moves around a LOT. wiggle it around (gently) like a joystick and try to figure out what the MIDDLE of that range is. center it all with the tool in and then tighten down the pressure plate. that'll give you the best chance of making it into the pilot bearing straight and easy.
THEN
with a spare pilot bearing, verify that the input shaft on teh tranny is not fucked up and has no burrs on it. bearing should slide on firmly but easily.
THEN
get your OEM jack and a block of wood or something and put it up under the front of the motor (I use teh A/C bracket) and support the front of hte motor so that when you have the tranny nearly lined up (maybe 2 inches out) all the gaps around the top and sides and bottom are all equal-ish.
THEN
put a tranny jack under the tranny and get it close to the height you need and tweak the OEM jack under the front of the motor to match its angle while maintaining clearance in the tranny tunnel.
THEN
You should be EASILY able to get within an inch of mating. Run your hand around the whole perimeter of the tranny mouth where it mates to the big sheet metal gasket/block and make sure nothing is hanging around in there that would prevent it from fully mating. The starter and neutral switch **** LOVE to hang down in your business and **** **** up.
THEN
while wiggling the bejeezus out of the tranny, try to close that gap. you'll probably get it down to 1/2" no problem. recheck the crap around the space on all sides and start the two top bolts (they are the longer of the tranny bolts). If you can, start the two at 5 and 7 o'clock too. no wrenches, just finger tight so you aren't forcing that gap down smaller than 1/2".
THEN
with the tranny jack barely supporting the tranny, wiggle the **** out of it while you lay on your back and push toward the motor. seriously, up, down, sideways, every which way but loose, any which way you can, and any other clint eastwood + monkey movies you can think of.
THEN
when you've done this for about 3 minutes longer than your strength lasts, it will pop into place easily. finger tighten the four bolts you started and put in the rest. win.
if it doesn't go in with that, something is installed incorrectly.
Tried this exact process twice the other day with no luck. I did this process to the T like any other clutch I would do and still nothing. I have never ever had a clutch this difficult to put in anything.
Reply
0
0
The magic is to get the input shaft started in the first disc and move the tail shaft in little circles to get the splines to drop into the second disc like wax on/ wax off in varying diameters from nothing to ~6". It will either walk completely out of alignment or get right pretty quickly. If it doesn't slide in in ~30 seconds pull everything apart and recheck your disc alignment.
Also, make sure that the input shaft splines are clean enough. I had a Miata trans that some jackhole had put grease on the input shaft splines at some point in it's life, and the grease turned into burnt hotdog oxide and actually prevented a new disc from slipping all the way onto the spines where the old disc went on perfectly. Clutch dust/ road joo/ whatever can do the same thing, especially when you're using an extra 3/4 of an inch of spline length for a second disc.
Also, make sure that the input shaft splines are clean enough. I had a Miata trans that some jackhole had put grease on the input shaft splines at some point in it's life, and the grease turned into burnt hotdog oxide and actually prevented a new disc from slipping all the way onto the spines where the old disc went on perfectly. Clutch dust/ road joo/ whatever can do the same thing, especially when you're using an extra 3/4 of an inch of spline length for a second disc.
Reply
0
0
I am betting that faesawzall has the discs crooked still, because he's too lazy to loosen the cover bolts, find a new alignment tool, and properly align the discs.
This isn't difficult. I've had my clutch on 3 different motors, with 3 different transmissions. It was never difficult to install the tranny.
This isn't difficult. I've had my clutch on 3 different motors, with 3 different transmissions. It was never difficult to install the tranny.
Reply
0
0
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
From: Los Angeles, CA
I am betting that faesawzall has the discs crooked still, because he's too lazy to loosen the cover bolts, find a new alignment tool, and properly align the discs.
This isn't difficult. I've had my clutch on 3 different motors, with 3 different transmissions. It was never difficult to install the tranny.
This isn't difficult. I've had my clutch on 3 different motors, with 3 different transmissions. It was never difficult to install the tranny.
Reply
0
0
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 574
From: Fake Virginia
Reply
0
0
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,029
Total Cats: 304
From: The coal ridden hills of Pennsylvania
There shouldn't be any angular misalignment once the flywheel is torqued down. Once the flywheel is tight, the tool should easily slide out of the clutch discs.
Reply
0
0
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 574
From: Fake Virginia
Reply
0
0
Reply
0
0
Reply
0
0
