what are the CL initial duties table values like compared to your open loop numbers?

make your initial duties table numbers align closer to where your valve actually operates at. If youre telling the valve to hit 30% PWM but you need 40% to idle, that will never work...

I changed all his CL settings to match what was on my 94LE. As they are very similar setups, besides injector size. VVT motor, flat top, nb idle valve.

based on your OL table, try these values in the initial duties table (actually add like 2% to this entire thing):

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...072cd38622.png

Lars needs much less PWM% than you. I'd also revert back to your original idle cranking table, but keep all the rest of his CL stuffs.

I miss my YZ 450

Cams and valves are for pussies. :party:

Thanks guys. Trying these settings and suggestions before the weekend.

Only two races left in the season, on the dirtbike. I have a minor points lead for the championship. The bike is in many pieces right now, and I have a race on sunday.

Since day one with this engine, I have had coolant puke from the overflow whengine I park the car. Various amounts, but usually a small puddle. Burped the system 100 times. No overheating. 949 radiator and cap. ARP hardware. 60 lbs.

Should I accept that it's a head gasket problem?

You can chemically test the coolant to see if it's a head gasket, there are test strips you can buy that will show if exhaust gasses are contaminating the coolant to find out if it's a head gasket. Also very likely for one of the plugs to look different if coolant is getting in that cylinder.

All plugs look identical. I'll check for the strips.

Miata Masters, I have a riddle.

After I went and drove my car pretty hard, it started running on 3 cylinders. I had just modified the tune and at 20 psi it ran at AFR 12.3-5 for a second, five or six times in ten minutes. I was not super concerned since the lean condition was lasting less than 1.5 second. My AFR safety was set at 1.5 seconds and I never hit that. So I came home, changed the plugs even though the ones I was running looked fine. No real change. Cold, the engine ran fine, once it warmed up it would run on 3 cylinders until i shut it off and let it cool. Anyway, I assumed the worst and started tearing the thing apart expecting to see the worst. Fast forward a couple days.

It turns out that I can remove the entire engine and trans, about as fast as I can remove just the head/turbo assembly.

The intake tract was full of oil. Now I really think that something is broken. Not sure how the oil got past my catch can. No idea on that, but it did.

The engine: It looks great! NO sign of det at all. everything looks brand new. no signs of leaking head gasket, no burnt valves, no erosion on the piston edges. I DID find a questionable connection at one of my fuel injectors. the plug was super loose. Could an injector if unplugged, aloow all of that oil to somehow end up in the intake? As I type this, I don't even know how that is possible.

I still don't trust the valve train. A bent valve the only thing I can think of that may cause it to run differently when hot/cold. What do you guys think about this.

No, injector will not do that.

Oil in the intercooler? You didn't do a comp test first did you? Are we pressurizing the crank case and overwhelming the PVC? that seems to be a common thing around here lately.

Unfortunately I did not do a compression test. I figured the engine was broken and that was that. I never expected to not find anything when I opened it up. Now I have to wonder all sorts of things, or pull the bottom end apart, or put it together with fingers crossed.

I would expect that if I had pressurized the crank case, I would find a pool of it in my seperator. In fact I was thinking the opposite . That maybe I was making SO much vacuum from the venturi on the turbo inlet, that I was just o er powering the seperator .

Injector could cause it to drop a cylinder, but not oil. If blowby is excessive, probably the rings are bad. If not, your catchan setup is probably bad, or your PCV valve is pressurizing the crankcase (it's bad). I just deleted the PCV and run a hose from the drivers side off the side of the car, no problems and it's simple. I don't have much blowby at all though, stock valve cover.

For the head, you can pull the cams out, and then pour mineral spirits down the ports to check for a bad valve. Should stay dry, maybe barely wet after a few minutes. If it's immediately wet it leaks, if it pours out it needs repair.

I pulled the intake apart two weeks ago for unrelated issues, and it was absolutely clean. no oil. I don't run a pcv valve. I have a venturi in the intake pre turbo, it pulls through both of the factory vents on the valve cover. both of those have been opened up to .500, chor boy, and modified internals to pull air from the top of the VC instead of pooling oil on the floor area.

Can this happen : If an injector is disconnected and not adding fuel to a cylinder, could I in theory be pulling enough vacuum to draw up oil through a non firing cylinder ? I need to measure the amount of vacuum I make, but I think it's an absurd amount . https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...98bfd1255d.pngI was hoping this pic showed my vacuum routing, but it doesn't.

Wait, yes it does.

No. A disconnected injector won't do much more than cause that cyl not to fire. No harm otherwise

More details . ... All of the pistons and combustion chambers are DRY. no oil. I am leaning towards a failure of some sort in the head.

You're sucking all the oil in with the venturi, get rid of it and it's fixed.

I agree with Pat, I know you have the venturi to try and clear the block in boost but without a source of fresh air you're pretty much just capping the block off and giving blowby one tiny exit. With one tiny exit, you get insane air velocity. With insane air velocity, the oil has no chance of falling out of suspension in the air without a swirl pot. Chor boy does not work, never has IMO. All it does is reduce camber volume, increases the air resistance and therefore the velocity of the air running through the loop. Whatever does manage to condense onto the chor is just going to be sucked right back off, anyway. The oil needs to collect into a large enough pile to flow back, but not small enough droplets that the air can pick it back up and sling it forward again.

If I were you, I'd try a conventional PCV setup with a single catch can between the intake manifold. Delete all the wadding. I bet it'd be a thousand times better.

Possibly . Except that I never had any oil in the intake, until it started running on 3 cylinders . Two weeks ago it was sparkling clean after 3k miles. After losing a cylinder is when I got oil. but still no oil in the combustion chambers . plugs are dry too.

I'm going to take the head apart to install some new valve springs, never did that when I built the rest of this thing. At that time I can check to make sure everything is free and not binding up. I just don't have any obvious reason why I am losing one cylinder once it warmed up.

I know you're having issues currently, but I've read through your entire build thread over the last week or so. Your metal working skills are fucking fantastic.

Your thread at once makes me excited and terrified to put together one of these cars.

Thanks man, I appreciate the compliment. It's just another thing I ha e to figure out. it's pretty much winter so at least I'm not missing out on good driving weather.

So now that it's apart, it seems like a good time to use this EFR I have laying around...Too bad I didn't get to dyno this 2560, I bet it was well overy 300 hp @ 23psi.

What are your goals for the EFR? Are you going to do the studs this time when you have everything apart? The decision had you contemplating xanax in the past haha.

There are so many brackets etc that you have on that thing that I want so bad. Like the heat shield and the LS coil mount. Really solid work.

I sucked at documenting all the changes . it is currently ARP everything . EFR will be kept below 6 speed crushing numbers. A couple runs in the 350 hp range would be fun though . I really just want to drive this thing for a year without constantly fun king with it. I'm close.

When you are ready to part with that 2560 at below market prices let me know.

You know we sell these?

​​​​​​​2nd....

Back off, I already asked to rummage through his parts bin lol.

But I want my fabricator to be happy, not sad :(

I see what you did there...

I ran more than 350whp through a 6 speed using a stock flywheel. Might be worth considering if you really want to keep it alive, and flirt with 350whp or more.

I have been running a stock flywheel and an FM2 from the beginning . I sold the light one right before the engine went in. I got paranoid after reading about trans destruction .

Wait, what is the association between a lighter flywheel and dead trans?

The theory is that with power neer or above 300hp, the power pulse from each piston is violent enough to cause premature transmission failure. The heavy flywheel helps to damper or lower the spike of power at each pulse.

Just a theory , but I believe it.

The part in bold is a measurable observable fact regarding the physics of how the increase in mass dampens the torque pulses.

Yeah I can see that. More mass means more inertia and a increased time to apply the moment arm.

By slowing the transfer a little, the instantaneous torque will decrease by a bit.

removing the VVT cam, why wont the front cam bearing cap come off? is there a hidden fastener behind the gear that I cant see, or is the cap just super-sealed to the cam seal?

Its a hidden fastener.

I'll take a pic in a second.

Nvm, no hidden faster. But when I took mine off I just pulled it out with the cam. It holds onto the cam real good for some reason.

You need to take the cam gear off anyways.

pull the vvt pulley and then remove

Careful with the torx screws. Wayyy too easy to strip.

Need to find replacements.

1. Thanks for the help, I knew it must have had something holding it on.
2. Thanks previous owner, for stripping the head on one of the torx screws for me already.
3. Glad I stopped hitting it with the hammer.

I buy new screws from Mazda, I think I have about a dozen spares on hand. I do not reuse them at all, brand new ones go in everytime I have to install that cover plate. They are the weakest and stupidest pieces on the vvt motor.

Don't post a part number or anything....

send me some with the fire sleeve.

Can they not be replaced with something better?

Well those vvt screws were some real turds to get out.

So check this problem I have encountered .
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a70b672938.jpg
My new to me 6258 and my new ARTech manifold both use 8mm hardware. Know body runs these little pieces of pasta on a track car, do they? I wanted to utilize my TrackSpeed 10mm inconel stuff on this, but now I haz the problem.

Should I just drill, tap and install some keen certs, and then run the 10mm stuff? I really don't want to cut off the flange and make a new one.

Sell the 10mm and buy the TSE 8mm efr specific kit.

/thread

Moneypit.

Wasn't 10mm the must have like a year ago?

You can probably just drill/tap and screw the hardware you have right in. That should be easy and cheap if you have the drill and tap already. Can't be more than 20 bucks for a bit and tap if you don't, then you can use the bigger/stronger 10mm studs.

what is the "problem", or the question? 8mm inco is stronger than you think

I think the prob is he already has 10mm hardware, but 8mm threads. 10mm would be stronger than 8mm, I'd go 10mm especially since he already has them. Would take like 30 minutes to drill/tap those to 10mm once he has the tap and drill.

Sorry but I gotta ask. How much is that sweet manifold cost? That looks baller. Pretty nice design.

My concern was that last year I thought the concensus was that 10mm was needed. Not arguing either way, I just don't want to have this thing fall off.


Edit: Pat, you are correct. I have 10mm studs already . I need to look it up, but I think that the major dia. of 8mm is larger than the minor 10. I hesitate to use a short thread, but maybe it isn't enough to worry about.

You also might have to shorten the stud. And will have to grind a lot of the efr housing to fit a 10mm stud.

everybody knows smaller is better.

It's just the side mount ARTech manifold. I got it with the downpipe from some dude a while back. I think it's like 350, or something close to that.

Well if everyone else is fine with the 8'S then I will be too. MONEYPIT !

Owning A turbo miata is like owning a boat.

Nope, there's enough to do it. Tap drill will be OD - thread pitch, so M10x1.5 = 8.5mm tap drill so you'd be ok.

I dunno about 10mm fitment with that turbo, but if it fits I'd run it.

10mm fits on the turbo. But it take a ton of grinding. And the stainless exhaust housing doesn't like being ground.

You can get efr specific studs. Sell your 10s and go 8.

We did 10s first because we were helping customers that had already upgraded to 10mm studs. When we designed the EFR kits, we designed around an 8mm stud. Both work fine.

Planned obsolescence!

Thank you for the clarity. You get more of my money.

I know I'm a little late with the comment but jesus christ this. Don't fucking grind on the stainless EFR housing, its not worth it. Just get the correct 8mm studs from TSE and be done with it.

Slllloowww progress here, but forward nine the less.

started installing my Sad Fab hybrid kit into my existing urethane junk. I had to mod some stuff because I can't leave well enough alone.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c06ca19e1.jpg
Drill and chamfer a hole to guide the grease from my existing zerk, through the bushings and into the new bearing area.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c185ea5d95.jpg
But what do you do when the zerk is in the middle? Grasshopper, we must mode-e-fy them.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63fb1649e1.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0bba78f4f.jpg
Now I can squirt my grease everywhere inside. I know, oil-lite bearings are oil impregnated, I get that. I don't give a damn, I like grease. I love Dominator grease. These front arms are currently defying gravity now. They move like they are on roller bearings now, and it all bolted up super tight with no play fore, aft, or radially.

A special thanks to Sad Fab.
​​

Regardless of being oilite, they still need grease! Im not sure why people still fight that. Anyway, there's a small gap in between the bearings when installed for the grease to flow through, but your craziness cant hurt.