It worked out really well!


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443099873


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443099873

Drew up a mount for the 858 coils, then had it laser cut.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443822945

Then bent it and did some final fitment.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443822945


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443822945

Then installed everything. SUPER excited about how it turned out.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443822945


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443822945

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443823106

One more.

That's slick as shit, do you use software for sheet metal fab or just wing it?

I did a couple practice bends, to see what the take up would be, then made a flat pattern in AutoCaad. Then got lucky.

Super short MagnaCore.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443890204

Well poo, It didn't start. ms3x, I don't see any tach movement or fuel injector signal.

If I screwed up the wiring on the crank sensor, would that prevent me from getting injector signal?

Yes. You need both cam crank sensors and they need to sync. Take a composite log and post it.

made a composite log, although I have no idea what I am looking at. How do you guys learn to use this thing? Where do I find instructions for this thing. the website explains how easy it is and what it can do, but I just dont get it. I have three unlabelled lines..Again, I am a computer illiterate fuckstick. Why do I look at other peoples logs and see much much more than an unlabeled squiggly line?

I re checked my wiring and don't see anything wrong. yet..
Attachment 151924

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444098101

Green is cam. 2 then 1. 2 then 1.

Blue should be a crank signal. There should be 4 crank teeth for every cam. It should look like this:


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444098101

You are missing the crank signal.

ok cool. investigating now. How did you learn to use this?do you have a copy of the manual? The EFI site lists it, but just keeps rerouting me to the home page.

Just read other peoples threads until I kinda figured it out a bit.

There are forums for the megasquirt, actually two IIRC. Lots of people who have problems making the thing work post about their problems there for help. I read a lot there trying to find answers for my own problems with my MS2 years back, and learned a lot just reading the post from others who had various problems. After a while you see common issues and common solutions.

OK, I am going to go through the wiring again tomorrow. Thanks guys.

Grab a multimeter and check continuity from the connector that plugs into the crank sensor to the connector that plugs into the ECU. Also check each pin for continuity to ground in case one of them is shorted to ground. That's where I would start.

Wiring checks out. Ground is good, signal line is continuous as is the power. Neither ground out from either end. No crank signal.
Attachment 152031

In a desperate attempt I have changed a few setting from my last ms2 settings when it did run. Not sure if I need to be on wasted cop..I did not wire for sequential spark, but on ms2 the car ran on just wasted spark (not wasted cop) although I did have the ls coils . Not sure about the edge / going hi or low stuff either.

I can't open that msq, what firmware and ecu are you running?

Ms3x, latest ware I think. I mean I just connected it and it is set to update.

looks like 1.3.4
Its crazy, of this entire build, this little black box was by far, the most intimidating part. I was reluctant to ditch the ms2 because I had such a rough time with it as well.

the fact that you cant open it makes me think that It is a firmware issue. Don't I just plug it in and say detect?

EDIT: maybe its this.... MS3 format 0435.16

I googled ms3 latest firmware and it looks like 1.4.0 is the latest release firmware. First step should be to upgrade that just in case your issue is firmware related. I'm on the one right before this (1.3.4 I think...) so I need to upgrade too.

Be very careful upgrading to MS3 1.4.0 pay close attention to the warnings in the zoftware.. They changed a bunch of stuff and suddenly things like my revlimiter and 100% tps flood clear mode settings got wiped.

I have to get this figured out. I'm concerned about my brand new engine that now has like 1,000 oil starved revolutions on it.

What crank wheel are you running? I can open your tune now, my Tunerstudio was out of date apparently causing me to not be able to open it.

Fm 36-2 .

Just updated to 4.1, now the three LEDs on the case are not lighting up. Im actually laughing now. it can only get better from here I think!

So I just tried creating a new project, just to see... I detects the controller, but will not open the tune. Just says "not connected" however, If I open with the old project, it does communicate. How or why is this?

Prime that pig!

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...-genius-33197/

TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Simple rig to prime your oil pump

I would run the stock wheels and regular miata code that's known to work with it.

Are you wired for sequential spark? If not you need wasted spark. Wasted COP is 4 coil drivers firing in wasted spark mode.

Who built your MS3x?

Have to check...I am second owner. It was built by brain I believe.

[QUOTE=patsmx5;1273019]I would run the stock wheels and regular miata code that's known to work with it.[/QUOTE

I do not have. this all started with a 95 car.

Ok. Well I still believe the crank sensor is your problem. Although the Wasted COP bit could cause problems too.

If it was run on a car with just a CAM sensor then maybe the crank sensor was never set up correctly

Wait, is this an MS for a 95 car?

[QUOTE=ryansmoneypit;1273042]My advice is buy the hardware that for sure, without a doubt, works. That's the 99+ 4 tooth OEM wheel, OEM crank sensor, miata ecu settings to decode them. That will work. If it don't, you can then narrow down the problem to a very short list of possibilities (sensor gap, wiring between ecu and sensor, bad sensor- that's about it)

Don't do that yet. Waste of money. For now. The 36-2 wheel should work fine. If this was an ECU for a 95 then it won't be wired for a crank sensor.

It is a brain unit. According to the vvt mega thread, All I had to do was the wiring changes explained, and that the ecu would handle the rest.

You say waste of money. I say will work, is cheap and OEM reliable, for sure works. If it don't , he can then narrow the problem down to one of about 3 possibilities. I've been given plenty of shit for doing things different for no reason. You don't need 34 teeth on your crank wheel, 4 will work just fine.

Per vvt megathread ....

The OEM 1990-1997 CAS has 4 wires. One wire is +12v, one wire is a sensor ground, and there is a signal wire for the crank position and a signal wire for the cam position. You will need to cut the factory plug off and extend the +12v and ground wires to each of the NB sensors. The cam signal wire will get routed to the camshaft sensor on the top of the valve cover, and the crank signal wire will get routed to the crankshaft sensor located near the harmonic damper. This will bring the appropriate cam and crankshaft patterns along the OEM harness into the ECU, and all of the other changes necessary will happen in the firmware/software of your ECU.

Also the lack of LED lights, makes me think that I now have other problems.

Oil prime through the turbo line worked great! gauge reads good. good things! great Idea!

Pat read my post better. I said yet, for now, wait. There are other things to check first.

Ryan. If your ECU wasn't wired for the crank sensor internally it won't matter what you hook up on the outside.

His car, he can do whatever. I know it sucks when you can't get your MS to sync. If it was my car in this situation I'd start with what's known to work, and that's OEM wheels/sensor. Then if it don't work, sure, maybe the MS is at fault or not wired right. Process of elimination. He already said he's confused.

Tested the crank sensor. Dead. Cannot get a voltage change when ppwered, grounded, test lead to ground and signal, with a screwdriver in front of the sensor. WTF.

Can anyone shed light as to why I no longer have lit LEDS on the ms?

I'm not completely clear how you tested it, but without an oscilloscope I don't think you tested the sensor correctly. Not sure what your test lead was hooked up to? If not an o-scope, test is probably not a good test.

Paging @Braineack and @Ben

According to the interweb, power and ground unit. Place a multimeter on ground and signal. Wave metal in front of the sensor and I should see a voltage change. Internet said, so it HAS to be true.

Well that should work, but whether you see it respond depends on the hardware you hooked up to measure the voltage change. Thus why I asked what you used. An O-scope would easily pick this up. A DMM, probably not.

if his only problem was the wheel he'd at least see SOME sort of signal
also the no-connect and no lights issue on new fw and connect and lights on old indicates some sort of disagreement between hardware and firmware/software

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444427387
OK I got a signal, but others look funny..Why does the red one stop before the other. still no start.

How close did you wave it. Needs to be about as far away as a business card.

Not really sure what you're trying to do but kinda sounds like your test might not work on a signal that needs a pull up.

The way I do this is to leave the system setup normally and fully plugged in/etc.
Then back probe the signal wire at the connector off of the crank sensor. You do this by shoving a sharp sewing needle into the back of the connector while its still plugged in.
Hook your multimeter onto that needle, then just spin the motor by hand. When your wheel nub lines up with the sensor you multimeter should read a full swing voltage change.

like this (on a dizzy, but idea's the same):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444426200

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444426200

This signal was on the car. New sensor. .040

lots of cranking and the plugs don't have any fuel on them either..

Can someone tell me what way the fuel flows through the fpr? when looking at the writing on the sticker, the bottom is return or feed?

My bros. I need some help.

If you're using the stock fpr, the inlet is from the rail (fpr bolts to the rail) the outlet is the only thing you can get a house on. The convention holds for any fpr

Fuel lines were backwards. rad.

I am begging for help. Please, somebody look at my tune and help provide some insight as to why I do not have spark. I have tried using the Spark/Injection test mode, but when I follow the TS instructions, the "start test" never lights up. All of the ignition worked, prior to switching to ms3, except for the 36-2, which is new.
Attachment 152292

EDIT: I just noticed that the ms is reding an RPM, but the one on the dash is not. problem?
EDIT for this^^^, turned tach output to on, got tach. plugs fired once. now nothing.

Another edit: I am getting a 12v supply to the coils.

now along with no spark, I no o
longer get a tach reading on the dash. Im just chasing my tail here.

Did you switch to wasted spark instead of wasted cop?

Yep. When I turned the tach to ON, I got a reading, a sputter, now nothing. No sputter, no tach.

composite log?

I'll get one. So I removed all of the plugs, 2 wet ones, two dry ones. One of the wet ones was firing. Only one though. How could I possibly only be getting fuel to two cylinders? I mean injector install was pretty straight forward. Plug, snap, done.