I hear all of that but how do you Lear things like:

Warm up curve- I thought this was warm up enrich?
Dead time- found specs on line for id1000, then pat said my settings suck.
Latency

The Mega manual gives a very vague explanation to all of this, that could be applied to anything.

I would really just like to stay with sticking metal together. Clearly computer tech is not my hot spot, or believe me, I would be in a cozy office, not in a freezing / hot shop.

It's l just a foreign language to me.

Warm up curve is warm-up enrich, yes.
Latency, set a fixed advance (like you do to set the base), let's pick 10*, and run up the RPM to 5000, while looking with a timing light. Actual timing should stay at 10*. If it retards, increase latency. When it is set correctly, go to advance table. That's my understanding. I've not done it yet, as I just learned of it.

EDIT: Also, before you tune the VE Table, decide 2 things: What do you want the AFR table to look like; Do you want to "Include AFR in Calculation" (or something like that) or not.

I understand most of this. I had my ms2 up and running well in no time. I don't know what my problem is now.

Wow this sounds kind of pathetic. Don't drink and post on forums.

[QUOTE=18psi;1286929]step 1) write down a list of strategy/approach

I'm serious.

For example, mine use to start kinda like this:
-sync timing
-set up req_fuel
-calibrate tps
-calibrate wb02
-calibrate thermistors
-do idle valve test
-set up idle valve
-start tuning idle and startup


18,

I couldn't agree more. I have done this. I also just received a tune from another member, from a car running similar equipment. my car will not run on it. I am beginning to think that I have problems elsewhere.

Here is the tune that my car will not even start on.



Attachment 156039

Went through all of the fuel, and ignition harnesses. Cleaned up a bit, new plugs. Waiting for tomorrow. We must test.


EDIT: tested today...

So I went through all of the wiring yesterday, nothing too fishy, but i definatley cleaned some stuff up.

wiring is good, continuity throughout- wired as factory, so, 1&4 fire together, then 2&3
new plugs, gaped to .026
set to cop, in the ignition settings

runs poopy.

dry good color on plugs 4&2
wet and white on 1&3

what do you think?

Runs pretty well now, but losing sync at low RPM. Im using this 36-2 wheel.. has anyone else had complications when running it? Adjusting the VR post, seems to have zero effect.

Does anyone have a stock crank timing sprocket that they are willing to part with?

Quick search found this, 11 dollars shipped to your door.

1999 2005 Mazda Miata MX5 Timing Wheel Pulley Plate BP4W 11 408 | eBay

Facepalm. I saw that thing but didn't even read the description. I thought it was an aluminum billet pully.

That one is scratched up a bit in the pic, but I'm sure it will work just fine. They're like 20 something new from the dealer if you'd rather go that route. I have a new 36-1 I bought from mazda a while back, it was like 19 dollars I think. Still have it new in the packaging.

Well I just went into the garage, and found a half a quart of engine oil on the floor. Leaking from some bolt hole on the bellhousing. sweet. These were the only two seals I purchased directly from Mazda. the rear main, and the oil pan gaskets.

With 1/2" vents on the valve cover, how could I possibly have had a rear main failure???? the gawd damn thing hasn't even been on four wheels yet. still on jackstands. for another few months it looks like. I am losing motivation.

If you overdo the oil pan bolts, you can squeeze the rear or front rubber piece out and that would dump oil since the seal basically falls out. If it is coming from the bellhousing and it's 1/2 a quart just from running on jackstands, that would be my guess. I did that once overtightening the bolts and had to pull it all apart, clean a mess of RTV, and redo it.

FWIW whenever I install a seal (cam, crank, rear main, etc) I clean the bore the seal goes into and put a tiny film of RTV in the bore and on the exterior of the seal, then pres them in. Not required to seal it, but it glues them in so they're less likely to pop out from excessive crankcase pressure. I've cracked a piston in half twice, both times blew the dipstick out of it's hole, and never lost a seal. And that's for sure the most crankcase pressure the motor is ever gonna see. And I run stock crankcase vent setup.

I was so careful when I put the pan together. I had read horrible stories about it. I actually re did it three times, because I didn't trust it. I still dont.

How did you torque the bolts? By feel? Torque wrench? What RTV did you use?

What I do is use Grey RTV. Clean all the bolts with a wire wheel to remove old debris, then brake parts clean the bolts and all surfaces. RTV between any two things that touch. Tighten the bolts by hand with a 1/4" ratchet slowly just to pull it down flush. Then in a circular pattern keep tightening each bolt a little bit so I pull it down evenly. I use the torque of my wrist to twist them tight, it's not a lot. Never had this method fail me when using grey RTV. I have had "the right stuff" leak on me before though, but it lasted about 2 months before it failed, and it was a small leak, not gushing out like you're describing.

I did exactly as you just described. Exactly. It even had a month to dry. I did it three times, because the first two were with the FelPro set, Wichita obviously suck. So I knew what to look for and how to prevent it. Then I got all of the Mazda gaskets.I treated this thing like a surgery, because I didn't want to have this happen.
Either way, it failed. Now it's getting pretty cold in Va., and my carport cover is mostly disassembled, because I thought I was done. I don't know what I'm going to do with it.
I just need to get out and do it. I can probably get it out in 4 or 5 hours. But now my confidence is lowwwwww, And it will probably snow any day now.Hopefully when I pull it apart I'll learn something.

Turns out, if I just don't F around, I can get it out and on the floor in like 3.5 hours.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1449445881

Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.

Are you wanting to go bigger? Why are you selling the twin disc if you want more power?

Because I'm would like to save an EFR 6258 frome being a door stop in my friends shop. My 2560 is certainly not brand new, and the EFR is really close to being that. If i had originally purchased a brand new 2560, this probably would even be a subject. I have my own reasons and theory beliefs for wanting a heavy clutch assembly.

Ah, thought you had the twin disc for the power capacity.

Any comments?

You seem like a baller fabricator. Why aren't you building your own mani/downpipes?

The shop where I work on my stuff, is an hour away, and to take a non running car back and forth just isn't feasible. Can't leave it there either. My entire build is pretty much going down in a carport on the side of my house.

Hold turbo in engine bay, weld jig together. put header back on. Take your time welding a baller awesome manifold. Profit.

Trimming the shelf is common on V8 swaps, and it hurts nothing. I did it a long time ago for clearance on my 3" downpipe.

I have an idea though, one option to consider. Put the car together with the manifold/turbo/downpipe/sweet as hardlines/sweet ass heat shield you already have and enjoy it. You should be able to make probably 260-280whp with that setup no problem on pump gas and a safe tune. More if you push it to the max though for reliability I wouldn't recommend it. I pushed my GT3271 to the max and that's how I wore out the thrust bearing and then the comp wheel hit the housing. But I was pushing it to choked flow.

I had replaced the flange, to install the 10 mm studs, but I did a super shitty job the first time. So I fixed it today. Cut the old one off, made a new one, welded it on. Done.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450572161


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450572161


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450572161

Neat

My take on securing nuts with wire, without drilling holes in stuff. Double wrap, Texas fence tie.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451251315

Interesting. Do you have any experience if it actually holds them in place? My turbo-to-manifold ones get loose every now and then and I'm a bit worried that I'll damage the threads from the (ir)regular tightening up.

If the mechanism through which it's locking relies purely on tension and not the tighten-loosen scheme, wouldn't the wire relax due to the increase in ductility as a result of a decreased flow stress at elevated temperatures?

Possibly. It was an experiment, so time will tell. Thinking about it more, when you look at the wires in an old toaster, they are pretty stretched out. I'm not sure of the downpipe gets to that orange glow. Does yours?

I wouldn't use this method on a manifold to turbo. Stage 8 / Resbond.

I haven't had a toaster in years :(
I honestly never set a gopro into the engine bay but it doesn't have to glow to get weaker.
I know the collector on my manifold probably glows as the swaintech coating is completely discolored at that location.

Very worst case, you have some extra thread poking out, you can always lightly jam it with another nut.

The only things that have shaken loose on my car has been the cam position sensor and the VVT solenoid. Quite literally vibrated apart.

Right... I'll look around what we have available here in Slovakia.

Order from Track Speed?

Thanks, but it will be much cheaper to buy an alternative product here :)

I'll be surprised if that wire method works.
I tried it a long time ago and it fell off after a while.

Yeah, I think your right. After a few beers it seemed genius. Today it looks lame. I'll just double nut it.

Lock washer is a no-go?

I'd probably shoot for a flanged lock nut personally

Because of the heat, I trust them about as much as the wire. Double nut is easy and pretty reliable.

stage 8

/thread

Screw yo logic. I want to try at least two more wrong ways.

Stage 8 is awesome. Their fasteners work well. And their customer service is unbelievable. They have sent me new nuts when I rounded some off, new retainer clips when I destroyed em taking it off, new locking bits. Basically new kits, all for free. And they are helpful, and found me a kit for my downpipe too.

I honestly don't know why I didn't do that from the beginning. I mean, I used them on the hot side.

Everyone makes mistakes. :love:

The intake scavenger venturi thing. Mine.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451440741


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451440741

Shit I wish you lived close. I would build you all sorts of megasquirts to get some of your welding on my car.

Me too, I'm going to have all these nice parts and a car that still won't start. Hahaha

My ultimate downpipe transmission heat deflector. I stole this idea from someone else on here, I forget who but I liked it. 22 gauge stainless, by far the most difficult thing I've ever welded. Also going to wrap the downpipe with that heat wrap tape stuff.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451442183


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451442183


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451442183

God damn dude. I blow through 16 gauge SS, cant imagine 22 gauge.

Like I said it was not easy, but I start to get the hang of it. I only tried it for about 10 minutes, I was getting super tired and shaky. I got up at 4:45 a.m. and it's 9 o'clock now motor skills are dwindling

Good news, the hose clamp fits.
Wishing now, that I had put six bends with 7 flats. Then my mounts could be center and sides. Could probably just rivet the mounts on too.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451444670

All back together again. As suggested, I had definitely over tightened the oil pan bolts. They need like, nothing plus 1/4 of a turn. Finished all of the breather lines, and installed my sucker intake thing. After experimenting with it, I'm concerned that it might make TOO much vacuum.
Chickened out, and went with -8 lines to the valve cover, but I figure it has two so....

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451863318

The inlet and outlet on my intercooler always bothered me. Nuclear pipe wall thickness, and a crap transition into the cooler itself. So I cut these turds off.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451960917

Replaced them with ones like this.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451960917


You can kind of see, before I cleaned up the inside edge, how much of a bottleneck those other things were.

I like it a lot more.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451960917

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451960917

It runs! Really well too. Well, sitting in the driveway. Still not nearly road worthy. I'm positive that I had a bad ground, on the last go around. It idles now, and I have good signals all around. MT.NET is a real place to learn TURBO.

Still trippin on the turbo though. It spins for like a minute and a half after I shut down the engine.

The downpipe head deflector. I was positive that 1/2" was enough clearance. Next time will be 3/4" I think.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1452559356


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1452559356

Those pictures seriously suck. I'll get more another time. It's 24°f outside. I'm cold and going back inside.

I know who. :)

Looks really nice!

So what was the cause of all of the rough idling/engine not running worth a damn problems that you were having?

BTW... great fab skills! I can do an "ok" job with MIG, but really want to buy a TIG machine and learn to weld aluminum, thin gauge stainless steel, etc.

It was the main ground, from the block to the chassis. I found it to be loose when I was pulling the engine. Facepalm. My new rule is: if you attach it, it gets tightened. Period. Not, I'll tighten it when I find the socket.