Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build
#21
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I got the LS2 coils to work yesterday. Fired right up on the old (current) engine. I wanted to make sure I had that all sorted out before I install the new engine.
Back to the fuel... I was messing around with the fuel calculations in the sticky. It looks like with the Walbro 190 hp and the ID 1000's, I should be able to use the stock FPR. Does this sound correct, for about 15 lbs of boost?
I have given up on someofit, Im going for ALLOFIT now.
EDIT: I think I got it. a 1,000cc injector will only be at like 45% duty and require about 60 psi on the rail, @ 15 lbs. boost. Does this look right? Man I suck at math..
Back to the fuel... I was messing around with the fuel calculations in the sticky. It looks like with the Walbro 190 hp and the ID 1000's, I should be able to use the stock FPR. Does this sound correct, for about 15 lbs of boost?
I have given up on someofit, Im going for ALLOFIT now.
EDIT: I think I got it. a 1,000cc injector will only be at like 45% duty and require about 60 psi on the rail, @ 15 lbs. boost. Does this look right? Man I suck at math..
Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 01-05-2015 at 09:54 PM. Reason: I need to practice math skillz
#26
Glad those coils worked for you!
What's up with that carbon air box, I need something like that. Did it come from ebay?
Stock FPR is fine with MS. Those injectors are big enough for anything you'll need with a wide safety margin, unless I missed corn, but I'd bet they are still plenty big.
What's up with that carbon air box, I need something like that. Did it come from ebay?
Stock FPR is fine with MS. Those injectors are big enough for anything you'll need with a wide safety margin, unless I missed corn, but I'd bet they are still plenty big.
#27
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I just didn't want to use aluminum or steel for the intake. No reason other than that.
Yes, it's an eBay air filter housing. Super flimsy and cheap plastic ends that break if you over tighten them. It works.
Yes, it's an eBay air filter housing. Super flimsy and cheap plastic ends that break if you over tighten them. It works.
#28
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[IMG][/IMG]
One last look at that 180 mi. engine.
[IMG][/IMG]
Hit it hard after breakfast this morning. wasn't as easy as i thought it would be. There were a few connectors on the transmission that I couldn't see/ figure out for a few minutes, and one under the intake manifold at the starter solenoid.
One last look at that 180 mi. engine.
[IMG][/IMG]
Hit it hard after breakfast this morning. wasn't as easy as i thought it would be. There were a few connectors on the transmission that I couldn't see/ figure out for a few minutes, and one under the intake manifold at the starter solenoid.
#29
Coming along. Have you tried that turbo you bought to the manifold? I did mention you'd possibly need studs, right? I'm thinking so, your 2560 is likely a bit smaller than a 3071 was. You are going to have all the power you want easily with that SGDP/manifold. Its pretty slick. Best of luck.
#30
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Coming along. Have you tried that turbo you bought to the manifold? I did mention you'd possibly need studs, right? I'm thinking so, your 2560 is likely a bit smaller than a 3071 was. You are going to have all the power you want easily with that SGDP/manifold. Its pretty slick. Best of luck.
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#40
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I chickened out. Im just not sure. Now that my parts pile is getting out of control, so are my power goals. I am now considering the fact that down the road I will want more power. In the 275-325 whp range, is 9.0 still acceptable ? Help me push the buy button. please.