I did. But then greasy finger prints were out of control, so I used that 1,000 deg. Header paint. We will see how it holds up.

I used stainless studs for the down pipe. What nut/washer combo should I use?

 

Last two of those turbo's I had all had copper nuts/washers from atpturbo

That header paint will flake off after about a year. At least it did on my 3076r and I prepped the everliving daylights out of the comp housing

 

Did you bake it prior to use, like they say?

 

Valve cover work. Man this all would have been easier before paint.



Opened up that tiny little hole. Now I have to drill and press in this tube. Like I said, much easier before paint, I would have just welded a big AN fitting.

 

Its been a super busy week for me and my Miata, but we made it. My golf game Saturday a.m. sucked bad, but that's a different story. here is what went down....
I hate this rusted turd, and refuse to pay what a new one costs.




So I built this one.




Then I finished installing my big 'ole new vent tubes. those are a full 1/2" I.D. of sucking power. Yes, I opted to use both sides, but had to try my PCV side with a tube in this configuration. I'm not afraid to not use it if it nets crappy results. My theory is that it will draw air from the roof area, and even in corners with heavy puddles, it will still get ffresh.






That's the last of it. I just need to stab the clutch and massage it in. It is ready to actually go back into the car now. For now.

 

That looks amazing.

What's the deal with the sheet plastic walls taped to the ground? Makeshift cleanroom for assembly?

Also...your threads reinforce my desire for a TIG box. Keep it up!!!

 

It's my makeshift garage. I closed in my car port with 2x2's and plastic, so that I could work on my car during winter in Virginia.

 

Some progress this weekend. Lesson learned: Install the downpipe before the engine goes in.

 

hahaha yup, that's why FM made theirs 2 piece

 

Or install the downpipe in the turbo, then drop the motor in. I have done it like that many times with no problems.

 

<p>Why you no run water lines 100% hard, as you did the oil?</p>

 

never go full hard?

 

Turbo orientation intentional? Intercooler outlet up...intercooler on top of hood?

 

None of the lines are full hard. All of them have a section of soft line, to prevent breakage. Except for the small oil feed line, I feel like it flexes quite a bit and don't anticipate it being a problem.

The turbo outlet isn't tight, I just had it rotated to get to fittings.

 

More progress. I have been working in another country for the last few weeks, so this is really starting to just drag on and on. And on.
I got the compressor turned correctly, only to find that it interfered with the chassis. So I got out my hammer and hit it really hard, about 1,000 times. I only had like three inches of room, and a compressor wheel to avoid. So it was definitely sketchy.
I also made a new water return line. The old one just wasn't right once it was in the car. Then after making my sweet aluminum radiator hose, it won't fit with the IC tube. So it sits on a shelf now, waiting for a new owner, along with some gm coil mounts that no longer fit with the vvt head.


Now I ask myself, " Is all of this worth using this puny 2560?"

 

Well I gotta go through this, but damn sir, you're doing very nice work and it looks really good. Lots of little details that improve reliability.

 

Thanks man! It all just takes so much longer in reality, than it does in my head.

 

I know the feeling. My car is on jackstands right now, and I'm having to make changes to fix things that didn't work the first time. And it's all taking wayyyy longer than I thought it would. Though I'm kind of getting used to that by now!

 

I have completed my solution for mounting the intercooler. I had to spend some time getting my aluminum skills up to speed. Mounting tonight to see if it actually works.

 

props for concept and execution