His car, he can do whatever. I know it sucks when you can't get your MS to sync. If it was my car in this situation I'd start with what's known to work, and that's OEM wheels/sensor. Then if it don't work, sure, maybe the MS is at fault or not wired right. Process of elimination. He already said he's confused.

 

Tested the crank sensor. Dead. Cannot get a voltage change when ppwered, grounded, test lead to ground and signal, with a screwdriver in front of the sensor. WTF.

Can anyone shed light as to why I no longer have lit LEDS on the ms?

 

I'm not completely clear how you tested it, but without an oscilloscope I don't think you tested the sensor correctly. Not sure what your test lead was hooked up to? If not an o-scope, test is probably not a good test.

 

Paging @Braineack and @Ben

 

According to the interweb, power and ground unit. Place a multimeter on ground and signal. Wave metal in front of the sensor and I should see a voltage change. Internet said, so it HAS to be true.

 

Well that should work, but whether you see it respond depends on the hardware you hooked up to measure the voltage change. Thus why I asked what you used. An O-scope would easily pick this up. A DMM, probably not.

 

if his only problem was the wheel he'd at least see SOME sort of signal
also the no-connect and no lights issue on new fw and connect and lights on old indicates some sort of disagreement between hardware and firmware/software

 

OK I got a signal, but others look funny..Why does the red one stop before the other. still no start.

 

How close did you wave it. Needs to be about as far away as a business card.

 

Not really sure what you're trying to do but kinda sounds like your test might not work on a signal that needs a pull up.

The way I do this is to leave the system setup normally and fully plugged in/etc.
Then back probe the signal wire at the connector off of the crank sensor. You do this by shoving a sharp sewing needle into the back of the connector while its still plugged in.
Hook your multimeter onto that needle, then just spin the motor by hand. When your wheel nub lines up with the sensor you multimeter should read a full swing voltage change.

like this (on a dizzy, but idea's the same):

 

This signal was on the car. New sensor. .040

lots of cranking and the plugs don't have any fuel on them either..

Can someone tell me what way the fuel flows through the fpr? when looking at the writing on the sticker, the bottom is return or feed?

 

My bros. I need some help.

 

If you're using the stock fpr, the inlet is from the rail (fpr bolts to the rail) the outlet is the only thing you can get a house on. The convention holds for any fpr

 

Fuel lines were backwards. rad.

 

I am begging for help. Please, somebody look at my tune and help provide some insight as to why I do not have spark. I have tried using the Spark/Injection test mode, but when I follow the TS instructions, the "start test" never lights up. All of the ignition worked, prior to switching to ms3, except for the 36-2, which is new.
CurrentTune.msq

EDIT: I just noticed that the ms is reding an RPM, but the one on the dash is not. problem?
EDIT for this^^^, turned tach output to on, got tach. plugs fired once. now nothing.

Another edit: I am getting a 12v supply to the coils.

 

now along with no spark, I no o
longer get a tach reading on the dash. Im just chasing my tail here.

 

Did you switch to wasted spark instead of wasted cop?

 

Yep. When I turned the tach to ON, I got a reading, a sputter, now nothing. No sputter, no tach.

 

composite log?

 

I'll get one. So I removed all of the plugs, 2 wet ones, two dry ones. One of the wet ones was firing. Only one though. How could I possibly only be getting fuel to two cylinders? I mean injector install was pretty straight forward. Plug, snap, done.