18psi

iTrader: (76)

why not get some sti struts in that bad boy? and an sti rear bar. it will make power sliding a delight lol
I actually just sold good condition 2004 STi struts and springs (the only year that will fit your foz without modification) for only $180. a RSB would cost about $50.

Just an option

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Dude, I was seriously considering this.. until i got to drive it. I'm actually really enjoying the ride height right now. You should have seen the backroad I took home last night, i **** you not there are 10" deep ruts and mud pits all down it. It was awesome to take it without worry, and this is the same backroad home from my local pub, i can drive the whole way on the dirt road with the right car

Obviously i'd avoid terrible roads like that if i go lower, but for now I'm enjoying its almost truck like ride height.

I'd like to keep the ride height but improve handling if at all possible. I've been reading and wrx wagon takeoffs dont lower you quite as much and still will vastly improve handling so that's an idea as well.

I'll have to see what direction i want to go with this thing. I'm even partially tempted to get some 1" spacers and lift it a bit.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

LOL, i wish i would have gotten some pics of the stickers that came on this car before i removed them. It was a younger college gal that had it before, there were stickers on there like "remember, women have half the money and ALL of the *****", and some other random girl power stickers. I lulzd.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I have a set of wrx wagon springs, they're actually already sitting in a box ready to ship because someone backed out on them.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

no **** eh?, PM'd..

From what i've read wagon springs are the way to go on a foz, cause the extra weight in the back is similar to the wagon and it will keep the *** from sagging.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

in that case I'd stick with FXT struts and springs. Difference between wrx and sti springs is about 1", but both will significantly drop your ride height.

Based on that post about crappy roads I'd stay with FXT suspension and perhaps just get a setup from a new/low mileage pre-09, and also look into making a skid plate and diff skid plate. Its really easy, relatively cheap, and would be awesome for someone like you.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Now we're talking. I'm thinking some upgraded OEM + struts that are a bit stiffer, and oem springs. Looking into the FXT stuff, i assume its a bit stiffer and will handle a bit better in the canyons?

This car will see some serious double duty. One one hand, i use it to go skiing. Windy mountain roads and I want it to handle decently on those.

On the other hand, i'll be slapping my MTB's on the roof of this thing and heading for the hills. So i need maximum ride height. Some of the trailheads I get to are a bit gnarly, and were pushing it for my buddies stock suspension 07 wrx wagon.

My thought was sway bars to help it in the roll dept, along with a refreshed OEM setup - but now i'm looking into fxt stuff.

BTW: i love this ******* forum. I get more subaru help over here on miataturbo.net than I do on rs25 OR subaruforester.org. You guys kick ***. PROPZ FOR EVERYONE.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

best part about a subaru is the direction you can take with it.

For example.. /drool.



LOVE the look, not gonna happen where I live though, not for what i want to use this car for (the miata is for low and fast).

I'm going more along the lines of:


Drooling over these wheels too:


I'll be waiting on those until I'm ready to buy tires though. Will save $$ for miata moneys and boost.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

That little white Forester looks like an absolute hoot.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

They are when driven in the right conditions (dirt, ice, gravel, snow) I have a blast in mine so far with old likely blown struts and stock height.

On the street its a nice and comfy DD

Erat

iTrader: (5)

backtomiata backtomiata backtomiata backtomiata backtomiata backtomiata

Spring is a comin'!

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

^troof! Which is exactly why I'm getting my parts list together for the BP bottom end. Rock Auto is amazing, SO much damn cheaper than anything local.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

They are great. Though rosenthal/arlington mazda was also really really awesome and I'll be using them again for miata odds and ends.

So lets get pics of the miata progress going shall we?

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I'm going to order my engine parts this week; compiling a list now.

My list so far:

Ball hone (have)
bore gauge (to check for taper! have)
Forged rods w/ arp hardware (have)
re-use my BP waterpump (like, sub 1,000 miles on it lol - have this)
OEM main/rod bearings
Chromoly rings
ARP headstuds
MLS headgasket
Gates timing belt
OEM oil pump
assembly lube
A bunch of misc engine seals (woo)
plastigauge (for reassembly, i'm gonna check all the clearances and whatnot)

Anyone else who has rebuilt an engine, chime in with anything I'm missing. I hate having a random part missing when I'm working on something

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Thrust bearing?

Not messing around with the head?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

If you're refreshing the head I have a spare set of brand new supertech valve stem seals for ya

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I need to look into this, i assumed it would be included in a main bearing set if i bought one. I'm kind of learning as I go along with this (pretty much like any new project) so I'll be researching it more now.

Head WILL be refreshed to go with the new bottom end. Right now the priority is to get the bottom end built and ready to go, then i can pull the car into the garage, ****** the head off, and either pay someone to refresh it, or tackle the process myself. It depends on how much I get charged locally for those services.

YIP. PM'd. do need.

Edit: also, i should probably do ARP head AND mainstuds right?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

True story: the local machine shop guy quoted me to $250 to machine head, clean it, cut valves, and set lash.

Having gone through this nightmare doing it myself, I would now 100% without a doubt take that option.

Unless you're really really bored and love terribly boring and tedious work.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

That^ Pay someone who can do it right, quickly, and has done it before.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

If i can get it done for sub $300 it's a no-brainer for me. I've had some ridiculous quotes for engine work where I live though, so it seems goo work is hard to come by. I'm on the hunt for someone who can do the job well, there IS a local miata shop but I feel they are going to charge way too much. I'm going to have to contact them and see.

Vlad, what did the $350 include? re-seating the valves, new valve stem seals, and adjustment/shimming and assembly? Would they also test the valve springs as well?

Just curious so I can make sure to not get screwed locally .