Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata. (the search for more torque).
#703
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<3.
Also, as a side note the blower works at least 2x as good now. Not even kidding. I cleaned so much dust and bugs/rocks out of that thing and with the evap delete it has less backpressure or whatever, flows way better.
Also, as a side note the blower works at least 2x as good now. Not even kidding. I cleaned so much dust and bugs/rocks out of that thing and with the evap delete it has less backpressure or whatever, flows way better.
#711
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Love this car. Got my gauges installed, ran a proper +12v to my wideband using the "add a circut" method which came out really nice and clean.
Thanks Jeff. The car is running pretty damn awesome right now too, loves this cold weather.
Thanks Jeff. The car is running pretty damn awesome right now too, loves this cold weather.
#713
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No tracks within a few hundred miles of me, but I WILL get some canyon vids of the car in action for you boys.
Keep in mind it's on low "safe" boost of 9-10psi or so, so don't expect something lightning fast.
I'd also like to git some footage of the various issues I have to get your guy's input. I'm wondering if my slow to register oil pressure is due to the long *** turbo line I have tee-d off the oil pressure sender. It's only on cold starts after sitting for a day or two, and it probably takes 5 seconds to register oil pressure on the gauge.. I really doubt the bottom end is running completely dry though, because 5 seconds of no oil pressure on every cold start would have munched bearings by now i think
Keep in mind it's on low "safe" boost of 9-10psi or so, so don't expect something lightning fast.
I'd also like to git some footage of the various issues I have to get your guy's input. I'm wondering if my slow to register oil pressure is due to the long *** turbo line I have tee-d off the oil pressure sender. It's only on cold starts after sitting for a day or two, and it probably takes 5 seconds to register oil pressure on the gauge.. I really doubt the bottom end is running completely dry though, because 5 seconds of no oil pressure on every cold start would have munched bearings by now i think
#715
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If there IS actually a problem, I suspect the check valve on the oil pump, or a small air leak in the pickup tube or something, because once it's been started for the day it never has a delay in registering pressure on the gauge.
That said, I'm going to keep driving it for now. Building a motor with a fresh oil pump and goodies on the side, just hoping to not spin a bearing on this motor before that happens.
That said, this car is so much ******* fun I've found some motivation to work on it. I have all the parts for the engine build chilling in my shop, just gotta dedicate some time and effort to the matter ASAP.
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Hey guys, did some searching but I have a question for anyone who might see this:
When "balancing" my oem piston's weight, where is a suitable place to grind of material from the piston. I've already ground down a few of the more obvious places, but only shed about 1G of weight so far from the heaviest piston (it's close to 8G heavier than my lightest one). I read somewhere else that any casting marks or "protrusions" inside of the piston can be ground flat, is this true?
I weighed my ebay rods and they all came in at the exact same weight.
When "balancing" my oem piston's weight, where is a suitable place to grind of material from the piston. I've already ground down a few of the more obvious places, but only shed about 1G of weight so far from the heaviest piston (it's close to 8G heavier than my lightest one). I read somewhere else that any casting marks or "protrusions" inside of the piston can be ground flat, is this true?
I weighed my ebay rods and they all came in at the exact same weight.