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Old 04-27-2013, 01:48 AM   #41
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I spent some quality wrenching time with the car tonight and made some progress.

When I got to the shop:


A few hours later:


The "dash" sensor for the 1.6 car does NOT thread into the BEGI reroute spacer.


However, there is this nifty bung already in the head that was capped off. Threaded right in I looked in there and it definitely goes into the coolant journal. Should be fine I'm sure.


And now I ask you 2 questions,

1) What is this sensor? It's on the 99 motor under the intake manifold, above and to the right of the oil pressure sender.




2)Is there any reason why I cannot use the 99 starter? I have my na6 and the nb1 starter, the main difference is the na6 one is bigger and heavier, but all the connections look the same otherwise.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:29 AM   #42
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I took quite a few pictures of my coolant reroute when I swapped my engine a couple of months ago. In my build thread. Might help.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:38 AM   #43
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Sensor is the OEM 99+ Knock sensor
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:04 AM   #44
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Yep it defiantly looks like NM, I wish I had mountain twisties near me
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #45
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Thanks guys, and yup def NM. I love it here, do you live down south?

A few things I've been up to.

1) Wrapped my downpipe to keep heat out of the engine bay and where it runs in the trans tunnel. Really helped on my old setup so I did it right away.

2) I've got 2 injector sub harnesses, the 99 one and the 90. The 90 is the one I'm using since I'm keeping oem wiring, but the connectors on it were all broken. I went ahead and swapped over the injector plugs from the 99 harness and re wraped it with electrical tape since it was falling apart anyways.

99 harness on top, 90 on bottom.


And now with the connectors swapped over and re-taped. Honestly not the prettiest thing, but its hidden beneath the intake manifold anyways. As long as it works. You can see I also extended the dash coolant temp sensor wire for the new location.


And now, this afternoon I'm looking at cracking this baby open to mod it for the VTPS. It looks easy enough.. right? haha. I'll report back on that.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:55 PM   #46
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A quick mental breakdown of my thought process right now on the car.

1) mod the mspnp for vtps
2) drop in new clutch pilot bearing in my newly surfaced flywheel. Assemble clutch, throw on trans.
3) drop in motor.
4) wire in vtps sensor (not 100% sure on how to do this for a 99 sensor in a 90 car with a mspnp, but from what I've read it varies depending on how your MS is built internally. I may just wire it in how the current is and test it.
5) wire in IAC, looks easy enough. Same thing, will probably wire it in how the oem is.
6) start with a fresh 90-93 basemap w/ IAT, manually adjust timing map to match that of the basemap for the 99-00 mspnp. Then scale req fuel for my injectors. Hopefully start the car.
7) set base timing, tune idle.
8) flash hi-rez code onto my mspnp
9) re tune idle if needed, start tuning fuel map


I'm excited. Anyone have anything to add? This is mostly a mental list but I'm sure there's something I am leaving out.

Edit: ABOUT to do this mod

My question now is, what gauge wire to use for those connections?
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:49 PM   #47
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And finished. In regards to my last question above about wire gauge, this was Joe P's reply to me on facebook:

Joe Perez: "Whatever you have lying around that will fit. The current in this circuit is so miniscule you could use 30 AWG if you wanted. 22-24 AWG would be the most common and easy-to-work-with sizes for this sort of thing."

Now.. I hope to god I didn't **** anything up. It's not as "clean" as I would have liked, but I see no solder bridging any connections, and the solder joints are strong enough to lift the daughterboard up on its own. I was careful with static, etc. Now looking at the pictures I see more "smudging" than I'm happy with, but i dont care as long as it works. Kind of concerned about it, but still confident. How sensitive are these things? lol. 2nd pic makes it worse than it is, but I used a paper towel to clean up some solder off the pcv board and it left fuzzies.



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Last edited by Fireindc; 05-03-2013 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:51 PM   #48
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Going to ride my Buell and get some coffee. Then to Zekes to get a pilot bearing. Then to the shop!
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:18 PM   #49
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I'm pretty sure that's the stock location for the dash sensor, or at least on the other side. Yeah, mine goes in the head, not the spacer. Was it in the rear cover on your '99 head or something? Or does the '99 use the ECU sensor.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:22 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I'm pretty sure that's the stock location for the dash sensor, or at least on the other side. Yeah, mine goes in the head, not the spacer. Was it in the rear cover on your '99 head or something? Or does the '99 use the ECU sensor.
Ah, on the 1.6 it was on the coldside of the motor. On the 1.8 it goes on the hotside, so I had to extend the wire for it. It's basically the same though, just opposite side.
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:17 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Thanks guys, and yup def NM. I love it here, do you live down south? [/IMG]
Clovis NM and can't wait to move back to Tampa FL
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993ka24det View Post
Clovis NM and can't wait to move back to Tampa FL
Ahh yes, isn't that a small farming town or something? Honestly anything south of where I'm at I do not like. I like mountains, snow, curvy roads, altitude, etc. Taos is basically southern Colorado with a cheaper cost of living and more relaxed car laws.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:53 PM   #53
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Alright, going to drop this motor in today. I have a question for those of you who may be reading this in regards to ECU setup. So I've got my mspnp 9093 with a map tuned for my old 1.6 right now, this is my plan of attack.

- Flash fresh 1.6 basemap on the ecu. Or just start from what I have already? I might do that, then no need to reconfigure the wb02, etc.
- Manually copy timing map over from a 99-00 basemap
- scale req fuel for my dw800 injectors
- try to start car, hopefully timing is close enough to get it running
- when running, dial in base timing as per manual
- start tuning

Any holes in this logic? Seems like that should be all I need? Will hopefully have it running by tomorrow.
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:05 PM   #54
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Yesterdays progress. Started off getting my MSPNP modded as you can see above. Did this while working (I work from home), lol.

After work I went into town, took the DD in to go get some coffee and parts I needed.


Slapped in the new pilot bearing, threw the flywheel on and assembled the clutch.


Threw the tranny on. Now it's looking good.


Pic of the oil drain all said and done. Happy with this one.


Cleaned the engine bay. You can see my brake master gave *** and took out the paint underneath it. Sanded the **** out of it and prepped it for paint.


Hit it with some semi gloss. I considered painting the bay oem color when I paint the car, but I'd prefer the bay like it is. This way I don't have to worry about it when wrenching on the car.
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Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-yiafcjq.jpg   Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-ubbcth9.jpg   Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-stdoroy.jpg   Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-xlzsx6s.jpg   Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-qehmy0g.jpg  

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Old 05-06-2013, 04:01 PM   #55
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Progress..

Got more done than this shows, but didn't snap any pics. Taking my time tucking the wiring, weeding out the plugs I don't need, extending CAS wires, etc.

Good times! Should be up and running soon. If anyone could comment on my "plan of attack" I outlined above about getting this thing running i'd be greatful.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:43 PM   #56
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Only comment I have is to unplug your CAS and turn the motor on the starter until you have a good oil pressure indication (pre-oiling engine). Then plug CAS back in and cross your fingers!

Looking good!
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:54 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Only comment I have is to unplug your CAS and turn the motor on the starter until you have a good oil pressure indication (pre-oiling engine). Then plug CAS back in and cross your fingers!

Looking good!
Thanks! And 100% yes, that is going to happen. I plan on running the oil drain from the turbo into a container and crank it over until plenty of oil comes out indicating oil pressure.

Got a few more things on the mechanical side to button up, but it's starting soon.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:33 PM   #58
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Okay, update now to where I'm at. Might want some guidance or opinions.

I started buttoning things up and ran into a few issues. First, between the throttle body being a good 1" forward and the new upper radiator hose, my coldside piping will not work.



I'm thinking about a silicon 90 off the TB to make the bend, i think I can make it work without rubbing.



Also, looks like with the setup I'm running the exhaust dosen't quite line up. I'm adding 1.5" inches to my test pipe this week to fix that though, easy enough.

Any other suggestions on how to work out my IC pipe/coolant hose debacle?
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:00 PM   #59
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I thought I heard somewhere that wrapping your downpipe is a quick way to destroy a downpipe (or any exhaust for that matter)?

It's in the car now, so I wouldn't mess with it, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has heard the same thing.

Looking good Fireindc
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:06 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiburbian View Post
I thought I heard somewhere that wrapping your downpipe is a quick way to destroy a downpipe (or any exhaust for that matter)?

It's in the car now, so I wouldn't mess with it, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has heard the same thing.

Looking good Fireindc
I think it has something to do with moisture getting trapped in there and causing it to degrade faster. However, my previous downpipe was wrapped just like this one and showed no extra wear (or cracks, etc) after thousands of miles so I'm not concerned. Not to mention this particular downpipe is basically a throw away, eventually it will be replaced with a divorced wastegate downpipe of some kind.

I'd probably wrap even an expensive downpipe just like I did this one though since it helps so much. Also, I live in the desert so the moisture thing doesn't seem to be a problem.

Thanks for the heads up though, just in case anyone else is wondering.
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