Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata. (the search for more torque). - Page 10 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-16-2013, 11:50 AM   #181
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At this point I KNOW for a fact the turbo itself is smoking for some reason, so I've got to fix that. If I still have oil consumption issues after that is fixed I will definitely consider the fact that I could need valve seals, etc.
If you ran it without any restrictor before: oil seals blown, need replacement. And sorry, but i like your wheels.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:13 PM   #182
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I put in a restrictor on my 2560r but ended up pulling it because it sounded like the turbo was starved. I have a very small amount of oil in my intake port on my turbo. It's just a light residue and doesn't affect my oil levels substantially at all.

On another note i'm a little jealous of your car getting some action. I need a new uncracked 1.6 dash too. Unfortunately that's not all I need. Body work, paint job, etc...

The house i'm in had a cracked pipe under the foundation so I had to rip out the floor and replace all the 60 year old galvanized pipe, work van water pump went out, while replacing my audi shocks found torn cv boots, gasket leaks for oil too, my miata is getting ignored right now :(.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:06 PM   #183
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If you ran it without any restrictor before: oil seals blown, need replacement. And sorry, but i like your wheels.
This is what I'm thinking actually, however after going to the .055 restrictor earlier this week my smoking from the CHRA has pretty much completely gone away. I don't get that terrible smell on any quick pulls. I've yet to do any real flogging though so I'm not 100% sure. I did see a whisp of smoke come off the CHRA today after driving the car and popping the hood. The seals may just be gonzo, but its certainly not consuming a ton of oil like it was. Maybe it will reseal itself.

And as for looks, the wheels aren't bad. Perfomance wise they are pitiful. No idea what they weight, but I'd bet its 15+ lbs each (at least) and only a 16x7.

I'm getting some 12-13 lbs 15x8's soon. Now I'm leaning towards the wideopens instead of the flatouts.

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I put in a restrictor on my 2560r but ended up pulling it because it sounded like the turbo was starved. I have a very small amount of oil in my intake port on my turbo. It's just a light residue and doesn't affect my oil levels substantially at all.

On another note i'm a little jealous of your car getting some action. I need a new uncracked 1.6 dash too. Unfortunately that's not all I need. Body work, paint job, etc...

The house i'm in had a cracked pipe under the foundation so I had to rip out the floor and replace all the 60 year old galvanized pipe, work van water pump went out, while replacing my audi shocks found torn cv boots, gasket leaks for oil too, my miata is getting ignored right now :(.
IIRC the 2560r has a built-in restrictor, so adding an additional restrictor would not be a good idea. I'd be fine with some seapage through the cold side, but when it goes through the hotside, burns off the turbo, and you have to smell it.. it drives you nuts.

I'll get some pics of the goodies I picked up, I'm really happy with the parts.

Been driving the car and it's awesome. The smoking issue is basically non-existent at this point. More testing will tell. I love driving this car and do so every chance I get.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:17 PM   #184
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I wish I could find one good deal on a 1.8L, let alone two...
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:22 PM   #185
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I wish I could find one good deal on a 1.8L, let alone two...
I was NOT in the "market" for another 1.8, but when I saw this one and he accepted my $300 offer.. i had to go pick it up.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:26 AM   #186
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Installed some sweet tow hooks I picked up for $40.

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Old 06-18-2013, 12:45 AM   #187
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My new spare motor. This will be built unless I pop my current one quicker than expected.


Washed the car. Gave it some Rotella t6. HUGE upgrade over M1 10w30 sythetic. Never again will I run anything but the t6 in this car. Oil pressures are way better when hot.




Also did a few pulls and got some gopro footage. Will upload that overnight and provide in the morning to yous guys.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:12 AM   #188
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Tease.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:19 AM   #189
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Tease.
It would be done now if my ISP wasn't so jew with their upload speeds. It will seriously take me several hours to upload a 300mb file
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:43 AM   #190
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And another useless vdyno pull, this time in 4th gear on the way home.



At my altitude this turbo clearly will have trouble making much more than 200whp. This is at a spike of 12psi, but only holds 9 at red.

The next steps are 255 pump, e85, MS EBC.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:01 AM   #191
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Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post

The next steps are 2560, 255 pump, e85, MS EBC.
fixed
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:11 AM   #192
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fixed
This is truer than I want it to be. It is actually pretty damn fun where it's at now. I will likely be going e85 before switching turbos just to see how it feels. I have not even touched the boost on this thing, it should be able to flow at least 12psi at redline I think.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:33 AM   #193
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I'm also uploading the other one I took from inside the car.

The launch was pretty lame, spun too much at first.. let off a bit then got back on it. Flyby at 1:50 starting in first gear from just behind the camera.



Not the most exciting but you get the idea.

Last edited by Fireindc; 06-18-2013 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:14 AM   #194
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Sounds good. Seems like it pulls very linear, and much smoother than the 1.6 did.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:29 PM   #195
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Thanks man. It's not super fast or anything at the moment, but it has good low end power for 1/2 throttle highway passes at 3k rpms and whatnot. Still only running 9psi, so more boost will be coming sooner or later.

As soon as I fix the next couple of issues that have popped up... always something.

wbo2 took a **** on me last night while tuning. It progressively started reading leaner and leaner until it just pegged the gauge. I wasn't tuning in boost fortunately, just was tuning my cruise cells more finitely. Now at idle it is pegged lean, which is not possible because the car would not idle as smooth as it does if it were (****, if it was actually pegged lean I don't think there is anyway that it would idle AT ALL). Also I never touched the idle cells and they were tuned around 13.4 afr.

Going to check grounds first, then pull and clean the sensor, then if it still is fubard I'll get another $80 sensor on its way. Maybe when i was burning oil through the turbo it clogged the sensor up, who knows. Do you guys know any good way to clean these sensors? I was going to hit it with compressed air to blow the junk out, but what about using some brake or carb cleaner and spraying the sensor off to clean the carbon?

Other issue is I now have what looks like a front main seal leak. Goodie! After the car gets fully hot you can see a dabble of oil form on the bottom of the pan. You can see where the oil is running down from, STRAIGHT down the middle where the shaft is. I bet it is this shitty ebay front main seal I put in.. even though the one I used on my 1.6 worked great. Lesson learned, will be getting an oem seal and a proper installer tool this time around.

At least the turbo does not smoke anymore, and the car does not burn any oil as far as I can tell. ( i had my brother follow me, he didn't see any smoke, and as you can see in my above video I can't detect any smoke there either.)
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:06 PM   #196
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Do not guess on an oil leak. Use dye and black light. It's the only way. An oil leak is never what you think it is.

Synopsis of recent oil leaks on MT.net (all of which were thought to be front main seal and/or oil pump at first blush):

3 x camshaft seals
1 x loose oil pan bolt
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:39 PM   #197
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Good point Rick! I've gone ahead and taken some pictures of the leak in hopes that you guys can help me diagnose it.



Here is what I noticed:

Oil trail is coming STRAIGHT down from the crank pulley, none on either side of it. Oil pan does not appear to have any major leaks anywhere.

Oil pan was resealed with oem half moon gaskets in front and rear, and also with generous amounts of rtv. After putting the pan on i snugged all the bolts down, let the RTV cure, then torqued them down to at or around oem specs (70-90 inch lbs.

Front main seal was new (ebay unit, again i've had luck with this in the past) and was pressed in using a socket that was the perfect size. The seal was pressed in barely past flush. Both mating surfaces for the seal were clean with no gouges, scratches, etc.

Cam seals are the same brand (again, had luck with them on my old motor), pressed in the same way basically. Mating surfaces were fine again.

Oil pump was never removed. It did not appear to have any leaks when the motor out of the car and inspected. I kept it sealed because I know typically the factory seal does not leak on these.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:41 PM   #198
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There is absolutely no point in guessing. Remove pulley and front covers and just see what it is. Its really simple to do

My experience with ebay/off brand gaskets is that they are consistently inconsistent
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:49 PM   #199
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There is absolutely no point in guessing. Remove pulley and front covers and just see what it is. Its really simple to do

My experience with ebay/off brand gaskets is that they are consistently inconsistent
Yip, this is the truth. Already have a new OEM gasket on the way. Once it gets here I'll tear into it.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:00 PM   #200
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Alright guys, my car hates me. wbo2 sensor gave *** i think, ended up showing dead lean at idle after any long period of driving, and all other afrs were a good 2 points off what they should have been (16.5 in cruise randomly with no tuning changes, etc). Swapped it out with the sensor from my brothers s14 for now, the issue appears to be with the sensor but I'm doing more testing.

So of course I get that fixed (i think, i still don't feel like i can trust the wideband now, even though it appears to be working. It shows the afr at idle the car was tuned for so I assume its accurate.) then I go to re tune the map since it was fucked up when the sensor went haywire. Anyways get the map retuned, nice and fat in boost 11.5 or so. Same timing map as before. Except now the ******* thing is detonating, I think at least. Oil pressure gauge goes crazy around 4700 rpms. I pull timing, detonation is less appearent. Still tuning, but the car starts to overheat. The damn radiator fan stopped working again randomly.

I limp the car home, motor did not get fucked up at least by any of my asshattery. Still.. **** me, right? Soo here's where I'm at:

Front main seal leak (parts ordered)

wb02 failing (new sensor testing, seems to be the sensor - will order a new one once this is confirmed)

Car is detonating now and was not before. Same timing settings. (bad fuel batch? idk) To fix this I'm REALLY considering just going e85 since i was going to do so anyways. Whatcha guys think?

Radiator fan stopped working. When i pull the fuel pump relay it comes on as it should. Maybe this time my cooling fan relay actually failed? Settings are correct in MS and have not been touched since they were working fantastically.

Yeah, to sum it up: I fail.
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