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I've been running a homemade master cylinder brace for basically the 8 years I've owned my car, and the part that actually butts up against the MC is just a standard hex head stainless bolt with the top face sanded smooth (while chucked in a drill) to remove the markings. I've never seen any imprints or scuffs to the MC from it, so I'm not convinced you need the nice end stop piece so many kits come with for anything other than appearances.
Some more progress, with sport rotors in the rear.
Pretty happy that i was able to keep the napp m/c brace. Just used a buttonhead allen whixh had the biggest/flattest head. The lock nut worked to spin it out, then I backed it off to use as a jam nut.
Ive had the wilwoodbias valve for a while, been meaning to make a bracket. I did it in such a way to tuck it, and the ****, as far from the tutbo as possible.
I played with the line routing a bit, and settled on this config. Probably hard to tell in pics, but nothing is really rubbing or touching. Routed the rear line towards the fender to keep em all as far from heat as possible.
The MEATS! I foresee you being pleasantly surprised. Running 9's here too and going from 225s to 245s was a huge step up in traction. Sidewalls don't feel excessively wobbly/floppy either at 27psi cold.
When's your next track event? Stoked to hear your feedback after all of the off-season upgrades.
The MEATS! I foresee you being pleasantly surprised. Running 9's here too and going from 225s to 245s was a huge step up in traction. Sidewalls don't feel excessively wobbly/floppy either at 27psi cold.
When's your next track event? Stoked to hear your feedback after all of the off-season upgrades.
Glad to hear this, I did a bunch of research and the consensus was that the 245 would be faster than a 225 on the same 9" wheel, but the 245 would be another step faster again on a 10".
Eventually I'd like to get the 6ul 9.5's, but had to stop the bleeding for now.
Smaller piston should be the leading piston, you got it. Here is how my 1.25" spec calipers arrived, with a sticker on the caliper noting which side it belonged on, as well as the box marked LH. I also bought 0.810" spec calipers that I am currently running, but they did not have the stickers.
Smaller piston should be the leading piston, you got it. Here is how my 1.25" spec calipers arrived, with a sticker on the caliper noting which side it belonged on, as well as the box marked LH. I also bought 0.810" spec calipers that I am currently running, but they did not have the stickers.
Thanks! Mine either didn't have the L/R stickers, or I just didn't notice them. Thanks for chiming in and confirming.
After you swap pads once or twice Fireindc let me know if you have problems with that bridge bolt and locknut for the Afco caliper. First time swapping pads today and the nut was definitely galling on the bolt. I was able to get the driver's side back on and felt it galling towards the end but the passenger side snapped before touching the caliper.
Ha! My newest car is an 07 impreza. Good for road trips and the wife uses it as a DD. All the other cars are old and quirky, just like I like 'em! One day I'll turbo that truck, it's already running on a Speeduino ECU so it would be pretty easy. I also have that 2nd 323 GTX that I wanna build up, I've got a pretty serious stash of parts for that car. Maybe next year.
Originally Posted by SlowTeg
After you swap pads once or twice Fireindc let me know if you have problems with that bridge bolt and locknut for the Afco caliper. First time swapping pads today and the nut was definitely galling on the bolt. I was able to get the driver's side back on and felt it galling towards the end but the passenger side snapped before touching the caliper.
The Kuhmo v730's were great, but they don't have nearly as much tread life as the 660's. Plus the 660's were on sale, so the unbeatable price brought me back to 'em. I figure there might be some good street driving trips this year (FM summer camp?), so something with more tread to handle rain, etc. felt like a good idea.
I ran 660s a few years ago, I found the overall pace between the v730 and the 660's to be pretty close, but the characteristics different. On the 660's you gotta set your fast lap ASAP, first or 2nd lap out of the gate. While the 730s came alive after they got more heat in them. I actually liked the v730's more due to that, but I also felt they corded pretty unexpectedly since there's not much to gauge tread depth off of.
Got a day in on the car and wrapped up the brakes. All bled and I'm thankful for the bleed ports on the Wilwood master. Though having a bleed port there was new to me, it proved to be very helpful in getting the system bled (and negating need for bench bleeding).
Also installed a larger steering wheel spacer. Digging with where it's sitting now.
And I had to take a pic after tidying up the shop, the girls lookin' nice!
Did a bolt check today too, feeling good about the car! Going to schedule an alignment, hopefully get that done before this weekend for the track day. Though the alignment is honestly fine I wanna have it checked, and make a few tweaks too. The wheel weights were mounted too towards the hub, made me nervous with clearance around the brakes. I'm taking the wheels back to them to have 'em move the weights out a bit. Then tape the weights and take it for a drive!
03-08-2024, 01:06 PM
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