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Awesome! What are the stats/construction details!? Looks like you had to move some dirt and splurged for nice fill. Having a nice workspace will free your mind...
Awesome! What are the stats/construction details!? Looks like you had to move some dirt and splurged for nice fill. Having a nice workspace will free your mind...
The building is a 30x50 with 12' walls. It's 14.5' tall at the peak. Basic A-frame construction similar to a carport with 12ga boxed steel tubing and Propanel roof and siding. It's from a company called American Steel and they send a crew out who deliver and install it for you. It was pre-welded in the configuration I chose (for my doors, etc.), and they put it up in a little over 2 days.
The (dirt) pad it's sitting on was a pretty decent rise to get it level where I wanted it since my property is partially on a hill. I built it up with a series of lifts using brown base course and a harbor freight plate compactor to tamp it in, followed by water conditioning. I used the family Kubota tractor to move the dirt and build the pad, and the fine leveling was done by hand by me and my GF. We just used a builders level and hand levels to move the material around, compacted it in, rinse and repeat until it stopped settling and was level. It's a super solid mass now and level within 1" from end to end.
The building is anchored with mobile home anchors and rated to 90MPH winds. So far I've seen 30MPH since its been up and it's super sturdy, I'm quite happy with it so far. I was somewhat concerned it was going to be a bit "dinky" compared to some other metal buildings I've used in the past, but so far I'm super impressed. It's a little tinny if you slam the walk-in doors, but I'm going to coat the inside with spray insulation which should fix that.
I'm doing things a bit.. unconventionally here. The main reason for that is that I'm trying to do this in stages without going into debt (I have none). I'm going to eventually do a retaining wall around the back and backfill that. Then dig some mini footers around the inside of the perimeter (and where I want my lift), and pour a pad into it similar to this.
But I'll probably will work on dirt until next year. I'm super stoked to have a place, it's super weird - like my life changed in a big way overnight. I'm definitely going to build some super sketchy death traps in this shop!
I dug into the car pretty hard. First I got the fenders off, because I knew I wanted to install these frog arms that I picked up years ago. I cleaned up under the fenders, and touched up some surface rust with some rust converter and rustoleum.
The braces went on pretty easily and once you get them secured they are really on there. I'm sure they will do something.
Then I ran through the suspension, but on a new inner/outer tie rod (bent from the tire wall incident), and got my new controls arms with 863 bronze supermiata bushings. I also switched out my 450 springs for some 550's and trimmed my bumpstops. I had noticed the bumpstops only had about 1/2" before engaged at static ride height. Hopefully this helps!
I have rust on the roof of my 2005 Expedition. Along the seam seal material and in the valleys. I don't want to pay for a real fix. I just want to stop the rust and rattle can the roof for basic protection (it's the roof of an old car).
I know that you and @EO2K refer to the RC from time to time, and I'm looking for recommendations on what works well.
Basically I just take a wire wheel to the area, blast off any surface rust, then spray the rust converter. Do several coats and get it in the seam really well. Once it dries the rust turns into a black hardened paintable surface, and the rust never seems to come back (at least not quickly).
When it comes to rust I always do all 3. First, physically wire wheel and clear off as much of the cancer as you can. Next, spray rust converter onto the area. The rust converter will seep into the cracks and get to the rust. When it touches rust it has a very satisfying sizzling noise and you can see it bubble. It's a chemical reaction that neutralizes the rust so it shouldn't continue to spread. Then, once the rust converter has dried, I hit it with a rustoleum paint.
My rust was pretty minimal on this car, but I've used it with great success on much more rusted areas, like rusting out fenders, etc.
I have rust on the roof of my 2005 Expedition. Along the seam seal material and in the valleys.
HAH! My wife's 2007 Escape has rust that started in that EXACT same spot. It's traveled down the seam and made it into the windshield frame and has "expanded" enough to break the seal. Either that or the roof seam has finally rusted through because we get water on top of the headliner and on the inside of the windshield when it rains. Either way its fatal for us because if I try to pull the windshield to "fix it right" I don't think it'll ever go back together. Good thing I'm in NorCal where it never rains.
Basically what Fireindc said. If you don't knock off the crusty stuff with an abrasive process, there's no real way to get the converter into all the surfaces and seams. And even then, as you've got rust in a folded/welded body seam, its probably not going to get all the way "in there" anyway. The "Black Star" product sounds a lot like a Naval Jelly type product, which is probably what I'd use in your case.
This may also be helpful:
He covers a lot of the different types of products on the market and how they work, so it might help you decide what will work for your application, or how deep you are willing to go down the rabbit hole.
Last trackday (before the wreck) I was fighting some overflowing catch can issues. I capped off the vent that was the PCV (after reading numerous threads outlining the issues with using this side as a vent on track cars) and the issues appear to have been resolved, so I decided to cap it off and open up the holes on the drivers side baffles for moar flow. Then I vented the drivers side with 2x 10an fittings into a much larger vented can.
The holes ain't pretty, and it's a total bitch drilling at that angle. But I'm happy with how it came out and it should work. Also, no welder, skills, or anyone local that I trust to weld aluminum, so I drilled/tapped the fittings and sealed them in with jbweld. Same way I did my oil pan, which has held perfectly for years. Again, not super pretty but that ****** ain't goin nowhere.
I had to angle the can to clear the hood, hopefully it does the trick, if not I'll move it around. It's very firmly mounted to the PS bracket.
Cars on the road again, needs ride height adjustment and an alignment, which I'm trying to get done this week so I can race on the weekend.
Installed some poly bushing inserts. The kind that sandwich in and fill the voids on the stock rubbers (which were in great shape, the carrier is a lower mileage NB carrier). They fit really tight, were super easy to install and I expect it will be an upgrade.
And installed a neato ebay brace. Seems like a good idea.
Alignment came out pretty well. Symmetrical enough, better than my last one. And MOAR camber. I wanted a little more camber in the rear, was targeting -2.8R and he could only get -2.4, but the front came out close to my target of -3.5. Ride heights are even, if a very slight forward rake, but that's subject to change as I figure out the handling balance next track day.
It has some toe in the rear this time around which should give it some stability. We'll see!
Also, those diff mount inserts rule. No reason not to run them, they were so easy to install them, added very little NVH (maybe some decel whine), and really tightened things up back there.
Frog arms feel great as well, front end feel has tightened up down my dirt road, less cowl shake as well. I don't really expect overall performance increases at the track from them, but for driving on the street they are definitely a mod.
Supermiata bushings ******* RULE. The small bump compliance is mind blowing. I went up in spring rate on my fronts 100#'s, and they feel softer, like the whole car feels so much smoother down my dirt road. Huge win, except I kinda want even more spring rate now and my bilsteins wont have that.
Rear brace, who knows, it looks cool and since I can't bolt-on a factory brace back there, why not. So many changes at once it's hard to tell if I can feel it or not. Doesn't matter to me though, I'm sure it's a good idea.
Happy to see it back on the road (and even improved!) so quickly.
Sometimes you have to put your head down and just get into it. You really must love driving your car, that's where all the motivation comes from I believe
Thanks! It was a lot of work, so I appreciate your comment. I'm super amped to have the car back. I kinda took it for granted for a few years there, until I wrecked it and didn't have it for a few months, then I realized how much I miss it. Next track day is the first weekend in July, and it's feeling nice and sorted for that.
Added some rivnuts for where the radiator finish panel bolts on. I had it nut/bolted before, but after doing the rest of my ducting couldn't get to the nuts from the back and had to cut them off.
I've got some sweet new lighting up in the shop, and the cars were clean, so fresh pics. The miata actually cleans up really nice, it's a badass car. Just needs some paint or a wrap one of these days. Track event this weekend, so hope it holds up!
Last track day was rad, no major issues, but some things that need addressed.
First, spark blowout when the car is hot. After a few laps I can't run more than 12psi or so. Last time this happened it was a failed COP. I'm tired of it, and replacing COPS every few years, so enter LS coil setup:
Just A mockup, installing later this week.
I also had an issue with uneven steering. I.e. the weight to turn left vs right was different, and wheel wouldn't self center after turning right.. initially thought alignment was bumped off but not the case.. long story short im pretty sure my steering rack was damaged in the wreck, it makes a slight clunking noise and has some free play that is not related to the steering u joint or telescoping column. So I'm doing a depowered rack conversion with a properly depowered rack i bought like 10 years ago. Felt good to pull the PS pump, its honestly been fighting me for years on the track overflowing fluid, inconsistent feel, etc.
05-17-2022, 11:58 PM
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