Itty

Yes, sweep is your friend.

AlwaysBroken

I said that 1.8 is free if you're doing a rebuild.

1.6L rebuild consists of
> remove engine
> take engine apart
> send it off to the machine shop
> buy pistons and rods and oil pump and bearings, refresh head, etc
> put engine together
> put engine back in car, hook up hoses, wires, belts, etc

1.8L swap (within that process) is all of the exact same steps, only you buy a 1.8L motor before you order the pistons. Everything else is 99 percent identical.

Technically that's not free, but compared to the cost of machine work and all the parts (that's like 2k in parts (rods, pistons, oil pump gears, harmonic balancer, etc at least plus 1k in machine shop stuff getting the block ready) it might as well be free. Doing 250+ whp builds is expensive. Oh ****, I forgot- you have to replace the rear end too on a 1.6.

If you're doing a 200 whp build, I would say leave the 1.6L stock and run like 12-15 psi, swap in a torsen, call it a day. But if you're going for something that necessitates a rebuild, you're stupid to not do a 1.8L drivetrain while you're at it.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Are you dumb, just can't read, or where is it you have people handing out 1.8 longblocks for free? 1.8 is NEVER free.

He paid $250 for the 1.6 with rods and pistons, and it needs journals polished and new bearings, that sure is thousands of dollars in machine work and parts there.

Op is on track to have a stock 1.8 block killer 1.6, for less money than a junkyard 1.8 pullout. Less than most people spend on a flat top. I can not find a rebuildable condition 1.8 longblock for less than $200, trust me I've been trying.


You'd have to be ******* retarded to spend another $800-1000 just to rebuild a 1.8. For the money, you'd gain maybe 40ftlbs and 1K rpm in spool.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Deezums is correct, if you can get past his childish name calling.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

You have to buy the whole car to get the cheap block.

Goatsby

That's the plan guys. choo choo and mad boost. Will update some more this week. Thanks for the info on using the sweep command, I'll try that instead of weldments.

Goatsby

Figured out how to do it now, used arcs instead, still using weldments. Going to have to redo it because I forgot to set the distance between the two flanges! But you guys get the idea.

Itty

You might have downpipe issues with the turbo mounted so far rearward. Something to keep in mind.

But maybe that isn't the location you had in mind, since you mentioned you forgot to set the distance between flanges.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

He's right. My turbo is mounted right in the center. And the downpipe was really tight.

Goatsby

The turbo flange is exactly equidistant to the edges of the manifold flange, it just looks off because of the angle. I want to get it closer though so the straight runners don't collide.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Have you actually placed the turbo in the engine bay? There is a lot of **** to hit down there. Block, subframe, steering shaft.

Goatsby

It seems like it fits but I don't have a whole engine to drop in and make sure entirely. The dimensions are very very close to absurdflow's standard design so if his works mine should.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Good luck.

Goatsby

when did the title get changed? anyone want to donate a picture of their anus for the cause? haha

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I was wondering if this thread was NSFW

Goatsby

I just noticed it myself haha

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I built this 1.6 for a friend , the turbo is centered between cyl 2 and 3 and it cleared a 3" down pipe and 1.25" waste gate pipe pretty well.

.one lane

You should trim those runners at the collectors, flatten the runners, create a 1:1 scaled drawing and you would have the cut path.

Quick tutorial I made

http://imgur.com/a/bEM5M