thelarva

iTrader: (1)

This build thread is long overdue, but then again, it would have sat vacant for the past couple of years while I got my act together and compiled the key parts of the build.

I am the second owner of this Miata, which I have owned since 2006. I dreamed of dropping in a LSX or LFX, but my non-existent fabrication skills and limited budget prevented any such endeavor. It is my daily driver, and against the advice of those wiser than me, I have decided to turbo it.

In 2013, I stripped down the interior to a bare tub and installed heat shielding and sound deadening along with a less-crappy radio, speakers, and a sub-woofer box that fits in the passenger footwell. In 2015, the engine overheated and warped the head, so I decided to upgrade to a junkyard VVT engine following Andrew’s “definitive” thread. I also upgraded the suspension at this time. Unfortunately, the junkyard engine consumed oil at an alarming rate and eventually developed rod-knock. I knew that before I could apply boost I would have to rebuild or replace it. Well that time has finally arrived.


The Good:


Large Crate From Trackspeed!



Stage 2 engine




EFR 6258 back from Swain, ready for some High Temp VHT in Black



TSE Manifold



Xidas (Installed 2015)


The Bad:


Stock Rims... crap tires


5-Speed Transmission (Bought a junkyard 6-speed, but it will not shift into second...)


The Ugly:


The El Paso sun, sand and wind has done a number on my paint


Where I'm at now:




I am currently trying to cobble together intercooler piping. Andrew at Trackspeed was gracious enough to give me his recipe for intercooler piping, but I might need to clock the compressor outlet more towards the engine due to clearance issues with the frame. This is likely because I went with BBFW drop mounts, otherwise, I think I could keep the original clocking recommendation of pointing the compressor outlet towards the oil pan. Alternatively, I could notch the frame a little bit, but I doubt a small notch would clear the boost controller.


Compressor Housing Clocked to Andrew's recommendation


Clocked further towards the engine, clearing the frame better, but needing a 90* coupler off the housing

If anyone thinks there is a problem with re-clocking the compressor housing, let me know. I would prefer not to notch the frame to clear the turbo/boost controller.



What's Next:

I anticipate replacing rims and tires within the next couple months. I am currently torn between the 15x8 and 15x9 6ULs. 15x8s are the easy button since I won’t need to do a fender roll and I can get Bridgestone Potenzas locally. However, I doubt I will have enough tire to keep up with the EFR with the 15x8s. I also plan on upgrading the transmission in the next several months.


Finally, I have a funny-looking cat:

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I love your build, faded paint and all. And that is a beautiful Sulcata, how old is he?

Lokiel

My EFR6258 is mounted like that but you'll need a 135* coupler, not a 90* coupler and it will only work WITHOUT P/S:



See my build thread starting here for details of this and the coldside intercooler plumbing: EFR6258 Coldside plumbing

Another option to consider is the 90* housing:

You could use a 90* hose fitting from this outlet.

borka

iTrader: (1)

Looking good!

Why are you using a mac valve and not the integrated efr ebc valve?

My efr is clocked like in your first picture, with a 90 degree silicone elbow and a 45 degree pipe.
It's a tight squeeze, but clears ps and ac just fine.

15x9 6ul wheels do not need a fender roll on NB with 225 tires. Need roll only with 245 tires.

thelarva

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys! Our Sulcata is just about 9 years old. He was still a little guy until about 3 years ago, then he had a huge growth spurt. I estimate he is at about 25 lbs now.

Lokiel, that helps a lot. I purchased a few extra fitting and I happen to have a 135* coupler, so I am about to go give that a shot (P/S deleted 4 years ago; however A/C is a must here). Thanks for directing me to your build thread, I am going to try and replicate your hot-side.

borka, I went with the MAC controller because I would like my wife to be able to drive the car at wastegate pressure (she has a lead foot). I bought a 3 lb. spring for that, and what I have read about the 4-port boost controllers should allow me to run at higher boost. In fact, I wired it all up a while ago, just need to connect the wires in the engine bay.


Switches from left to right: Launch Control, Boost Controller, 2nd MAP, Power Windows (tied to keyless entry), and Radio Antenna. Also, USB in place of the cigarette lighter goes to MS3

Thanks for the note about the 15x9 6ULs. I guess I was confused and thought that even with 225s they would need a fender roll. That makes that decision easier.

Bryan

thelarva

iTrader: (1)

Worked like a charm, thanks!

135* coupler to 45* pipe



Plenty of clearance between the A/C and lower radiator hose



60* coupler to another 45* pipe and 90* coupler

Lokiel

Consider getting rid of the middle silicone elbow (ie. buy the required aluminium elbow and get it welded to the 2 other sections):

It doesn't cost that much to have someone weld it if you don't weld (like me) and you now know the required lengths and orientations
- make sure you mark the alignments on the hose and pipes.

I took my original assembled 2 aluminium pipes and silicone elbow to the welder for use as a template and the same pieces in aluminium for them to cut&weld.
They mis-aligned the right end slightly so had to cut&re-weld it which is why it has that smaller section.

Not needing the additional 2 clamps keeps everything clean/clear and eliminates a couple of failure points.
Initially I though "ICBF" with this step but now that I've done it, I think it was definitely worth it given the small cost of welding (I really hate seeing clamps everywhere).