concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I don't hammer on plastic. That's what the sawzall is for.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I popped those things out for no reason the first time I pulled a diff too. If the stupid sleeve is rusted in or you dont have a M14-1.5 bolt to pull it down you can undo the two bolts that hold that piece of steel to the housing, you know the one that normally breaks. And then you can sneak the PPF off. Then you can use the oxy torch with the diff on a bench and really pound that sleeve out, get all the rust off and then coat the thing in antisieze. Once you've done that the next time you pull the diff you just put the bolt back in and press it cockeyed into the threads in the sleeve and pull it down like nothing.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

9:01. You better not be late!

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Clocked in at 8:52 awwwwwwwwwwwwwwyiss.

Took awhile to get home, had to explore around East Bumfuck to try to find a gas station that was still open. Derp.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Smells like Emilio.


MTX-L w/ lsu4.9 by concealer404, on Flickr

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Protip for the future. Unbolt the PPF from the trans, drop the diff with the PPF attached. Remove PPF with diff from outside of the car. Put PPF back on outside of the car and lift it all up to reinstall.

I have never successfully removed the PPF from the car with the diff installed. I know it is "possible" I just have never seen it happen. Doing it my way is usually quick and painless.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I really didn't want to do that, but it sounds like it's going to be the easiest way.

"The Future" is tomorrow, since i'm still not done, and will be trying it again.

Easy to just pull the axles with the diff/pff with that method, too? I don't like using a slide hammer on things above me.

Appreciate the tip.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Just wait till you try and get the axles out

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You shut your ***** mouth. I'm hoping that i'll get lucky because the car has less than 100k miles on it?

stoves

iTrader: (1)

You should be using the axle as it's own slide hammer. Compress the inner CV joint, pull til it slams, repeat. Or a small pry bar/large screw driver against the side of the diff housing.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<br />
<br />I'm pretty sure my auction car had less than that and I have one that is still in the spindle. Its not going anywhere.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

.... wut.

Is that just a Miata thing? Every other axle i've ever pulled on like that, ever, has pulled the joint right out of the cup and i'm really not interested in replacing axles at this point. Would sink my MATG trip.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I'm not taking the axles out of the spindle. Driver's side was out about 10 miles ago anyways. I'm only taking them out of the diff.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<br />
<br />I just put a big pry bar in there and give it a pop.

stoves

iTrader: (1)

my axle didn't come apart the last time i pulled on it like that, but that was also the 2nd time I had it out to replace the oil seal.

The pry bar against the housing worked really well for me like aidan said.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Ok i'll do the pry bar haha. Already have new seals.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

yeah pry bar is the ticket there, might have to drop the exhaust first to get the drivers side one out though. I think I said in your other thread how to get the ppf off if the sleeve is frozen in. You just take that piece off the diff housing that bolts on and slip it out.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Exhaust was thrown in the trash.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

My first day on the department is tomorrow, otherwise I'd come down and give you a hand.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

It is 5 more bolts to do it this way, 3 17mm's and 2 14mm's. Also you need to take the wires attached to the ppf off, which only takes a few min with a small flat head screw driver.

I just used a pry bar to pop out the axles while I am lowering the diff if they are single part axles. If 2 part axles I just unbolt the 2 parts.