Gross.
08-18-2015, 10:03 AM
#802
No no, on the inside, you're beautiful. And pink.
BTW, buddy wants the white female kitteh with the blue eyes. He's a broke college kid and concerned about vet things, though. (i probably scared him with Peach's $400 vet bill and Kaia (Turbo's new name) and her ~$600 total over the first 6 months.) He's in Lima, OH right now. Think we can make things happen?
BTW, buddy wants the white female kitteh with the blue eyes. He's a broke college kid and concerned about vet things, though. (i probably scared him with Peach's $400 vet bill and Kaia (Turbo's new name) and her ~$600 total over the first 6 months.) He's in Lima, OH right now. Think we can make things happen?
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08-18-2015, 10:55 PM
#805
Real talk: If i have to **** about with all that, i will go Haltech and just build a new engine harness. **** a bunch of troubleshooting that.
Oh hai dere! I wish to make sweet monkey love to your car because dat F motor. BPs are so lame.
I agree. This is why we love you. Because you're an awesome ugly thing.
Oh hai dere! I wish to make sweet monkey love to your car because dat F motor. BPs are so lame.
I agree. This is why we love you. Because you're an awesome ugly thing.
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08-19-2015, 01:31 AM
#806
Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schwarzenberg, Germany
Posts: 1,554
Total Cats: 101
That is only partially true - the sNB sensor has both sensors for ECU and the gauge cluster included. The ECU sender has a ground wire, the gauge sender needs to be grounded via the housing. So try to ground this and it should be working...
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08-24-2015, 09:26 AM
#808
Figured out the gauge issue.
NB1, or at least 2000s do NOT have an additional ground back there. The temp sender is actually 2 sensors in one.
Black/Red wire is ground, red/blue is signal to ECU, violet/white is signal to gauge. Black/Red wire is for ECU circuit ONLY, and turns out that that was working, or at least i had no indication that it wasn't. Ground wire showed good continuity, and there was no visible damage to red/blue. Didn't both testing it at the ECU, that's annoying.
Turns out that gauge end grounds through the body of the sensor itself (at least one or two of you told me this, i just couldn't brain why that was an issue until i worked on it). Which... let's think about this for a minute. The sensor is in the spacer.
So we have...
1) Head
2) Gasket
3) Spacer
4) Gasket
5) Tstat housing/waterneck
So the ONLY way this spacer will be grounded properly is if the bolts are contacting the spacer. Apparently mine shifted due to the pressure on it from the waterneck not being spaced far enough off that nipple on the back of the head, and the spacer lost contact with the bolts, rendering the sender ungrounded.
I lightly loosened the bolts, smacked the spacer down with a wooden dowel, and retightened the bolts. Voila. Working gauge.
Not super impressed. Thinking i'm going to move to the M-Tuned re-route over winter. Less things stacked there apparently has more advantages than just "less things stacked there."
Working temp gauge!
2015-08-24_09-36-33 by concealer404, on Flickr
Oh, and i swapped the new license plate on. Required use of an air hammer with a chisel attachment.
2015-08-24_09-36-19 by concealer404, on Flickr
NB1, or at least 2000s do NOT have an additional ground back there. The temp sender is actually 2 sensors in one.
Black/Red wire is ground, red/blue is signal to ECU, violet/white is signal to gauge. Black/Red wire is for ECU circuit ONLY, and turns out that that was working, or at least i had no indication that it wasn't. Ground wire showed good continuity, and there was no visible damage to red/blue. Didn't both testing it at the ECU, that's annoying.
Turns out that gauge end grounds through the body of the sensor itself (at least one or two of you told me this, i just couldn't brain why that was an issue until i worked on it). Which... let's think about this for a minute. The sensor is in the spacer.
So we have...
1) Head
2) Gasket
3) Spacer
4) Gasket
5) Tstat housing/waterneck
So the ONLY way this spacer will be grounded properly is if the bolts are contacting the spacer. Apparently mine shifted due to the pressure on it from the waterneck not being spaced far enough off that nipple on the back of the head, and the spacer lost contact with the bolts, rendering the sender ungrounded.
I lightly loosened the bolts, smacked the spacer down with a wooden dowel, and retightened the bolts. Voila. Working gauge.
Not super impressed. Thinking i'm going to move to the M-Tuned re-route over winter. Less things stacked there apparently has more advantages than just "less things stacked there."
Working temp gauge!
2015-08-24_09-36-33 by concealer404, on FlickrOh, and i swapped the new license plate on. Required use of an air hammer with a chisel attachment.
2015-08-24_09-36-19 by concealer404, on Flickr
Last edited by concealer404; 08-24-2015 at 09:38 AM.
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08-24-2015, 12:13 PM
#809
It's crude, but you can just run a separate ground wire to that sensor. For my goofy VEI gauges I just stripped about 6" of jacket off the end of a wire and wrapped it tightly around the sender units, then added a hose clamp on top of the wrap to clamp it tight; attached the other end to a proper engine ground point and all has been well since. Function over form.
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08-24-2015, 12:16 PM
#810
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
<p>Ben: Get a real temp gauge, quit bitching about stacks 
</p><p>good2go: ******* thank you. I had been brainstorming how to ground my vei sensors.</p>
</p><p>good2go: ******* thank you. I had been brainstorming how to ground my vei sensors.</p>
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08-24-2015, 05:58 PM
#813
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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<p>If you don't want crude then buy me this and I'll send it to you when I'm done with it.</p><p>https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5738</p>
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09-02-2015, 08:35 AM
#818
Anyone know the dimensions/specs on the rodends in the 949 endlinks? I have at least 3 that are pretty worn and noisy, figure i should just replace them all. However, at $96 + shipping from 949, that's a no go. I'd just buy new endlinks from Emilio (and i might go this route).
If not, i can try to get down to AED next week.
If not, i can try to get down to AED next week.
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09-02-2015, 08:55 AM
#819
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
Anyone know the dimensions/specs on the rodends in the 949 endlinks? I have at least 3 that are pretty worn and noisy, figure i should just replace them all. However, at $96 + shipping from 949, that's a no go. I'd just buy new endlinks from Emil I to (and i might go this route).<br />
<br /><br />
<br />If not, i can try to get down to AED next week.
<br /><br />
<br />If not, i can try to get down to AED next week.
<br /><br />
<br />[Utag]turbofan[/Utag] has one on his workbench right now.
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