hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I just dont get the water line routing on these cars on any of the motors. Even if one wanted to keep all the gay ****, it seems like there is such a better way to run the lines and locate the nipples than mazda did I just tell my self that I dont see the whole picture and there has to be a good reason for it other than fallout revenge.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I'm at work, spent about 15 seconds taking pictures since i had to drive the car 1300 miles this past weekend.

I'll figure it out. Just bothers me when things don't fit a friggin' MIATA of all things.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

If he didn't take pictures, then other dumb people who bought the same thing, like me, wouldn't know what they're getting into.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Oh, and this thing seems to maybe be overcooling?

I know the factory temp gauge is garbage, but i've never seen a stock gauge hang around this low. Sits right at 1/4 at pretty much all times.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Me too. I'm putting a 195* in when I pull it next time.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

195°F Thermostat Crew checking in. After warm-up my factory NB temp gauge stays straight up at all times. Proud and erect, never failing, never faltering.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Silly factory gauge crew. Move on.</p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oh I have another gauge, I just don't trust it. The M-Tuned spacer provides a convent 1/8"NPT location for the aftermarket gauge sender.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Yeah i put a 180F in because i'm stuck in turbo mode. Probably gross overkill combined with the rest of the **** i've got going on, combined with all of the power i'm NOT making.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

180F because n00b. Not because turbo mode.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Ran 180s in all my turbo cars, ever. Never had issues with it. The only other car i've had cooling issues with was the red one, because of that piece of **** "Racer Reroute."

Oh well. I have a 195 or two laying around. I'll swap it in when i remove the whole ******* thing just so i can get a clamp on the ******* hose.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

So just like, make more power or something.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I need to switch to 195 but am too lazy to deal with that **** again. Next engine will have one though.</p>

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like work and throwing more bullshit back in the engine bay.

Wait til you guys see how many people i converted to N/A life in the last week and how many are ditching their existing turbo setups.

MIATATURBO CIRCLE OF LIFE

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

No bro, you need a 160°F, that's where the ECU makes the most power.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Worth mentioning i have no idea what this ecu is doing and it might not matter once i get megasquirt up and running. If temps look ok, then i guess i don't give a ****.

ofspunk7

I know I am late to the party.... but that video up the hill. Damn, I need to find better driving roads. That looks like a good time.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Is there actually a reason to use the GM IAT instead of the OEM IAT other than to be able to list another mod in your signature?

I ask because using the GM IAT will require some work and/or welding, and the OEM IAT fits just fine in my intake already.

We're talking the difference of being able to start testing Megasquirt on this thing this week vs. next week, and i'm aiming for a track day September 6th.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

GM open element IAT has a much faster reaction time than the OEM. I have a PCV gromet jammed in the stock hole in my factory airbox with the GM open element screwed in. It does not need be complicated

I mean, you are N/A right? Probably does not matter. If you want to use the stock one just enter the proper calibration and be done with it.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

I'd just use the stock one until you can install the GM part at your convenience.