Are you done yet?

Do you need any help?

 

Nope. Not yet.

Re-threaded the IAT sensor yesterday to fit into one of the aux injector ports and made a plug for the 2nd one. Not running bandAIDZ or e-cool even though I have both. MS3x and ID1000's for the winz

Also my MS just came back from teh Brain yesterday.

Just a matter of bolting up and tuning now. I'd let you drive it as I tune it but you'll probably fall asleep at the wheel after your car

Once its done we should race shifting at 4k

 

did you plug it back in yet? sensors reading correctly?

 

What thread pitch is that btw? I've asked various people a few times and never found out.

Need to make an adaptor for my aquamist nozzles

 

Not yet. 1st on my list of things to do actually. Hopefully today.

No idea, sorry. I matched it up to whatever thread is on the injectors.

I'll try to find the size I used and let you know if I do.

 

Won't the IAT get heat soaked like a bitch in the IM?

 

I was afraid of that too, but after talking to some folks apparently its not a big issue.
The mani is aluminum, and the sensor will be right under the sc in direct airflow.

Also MS3 has a couple different ways of eliminating iat heatsoak related shenanigans.

Lastly, if I put it pre-blower its pretty much useless at telling me what kinda temps are actually entering the engine.

 

Oh you have a cold side w/o intercooler?
What could an ECU possibly do to eliminate a sensor sending false readings because it's heat soaked?

The thermal intake gasket may be something to invest in? I'm using it on my motor.

 

His ait will always be directly in airflow: behind the blower and in the runners.

 

So the theory here is: The direct airflow from the blower on the sensor will counter act the heat?

Pretty interesting idea, hopefully it works.

 

the main problem with heatsoak is mainly that the sensor is located in a position that gets little to no flow over the sensor to bring the temps back in check. Having his AIT in that location should negate that issue.

With that said, from what I've logged using two AIT sensors at once, is that the sensor in the charge pipes, even when "heatsoaked" is reporting more or less the same temps that an ait in various select locations reports. I've tried the cowl area, under the headlight, and even in the fender well. Both sensors pretty much always reported the same temp and this pretty much disproved the idea of heatsoak on my sensor. ( I was attempting a dual-AIT setup where at startup it would use a sensor in an ambient zone, but then switch with a relay to the one installed in my charge pipes after an event trigger.)

So the main concern now is the amount of Gair corrections applied after startup based on AIT temps. The MS used to be pretty damn aggressive with its Gair and the use of the non-linear MAT corrections table was necessary to reduce the corrections below 2000RPM or so. After that they tend to make more sense.

So as long as you tune the ideal gas law corrections table and the non-linear table well, heatsoak really doesn't tend to be a problem. Having seq. injection pretty much negates the issue as well since it's easy to idle at 16.0:1 smoothly if all else fails.

You should notice that the number of people complain about heaksoak here has reduced significantly since we have all started moving away from MSI with batch injection, where it was a big issue, to MS2 and MS3x running seq. injection.

 

/\ That's whats up

If I can idle and cruise at 16:1 smoothly I'll gladly do it.

 

Just increase the wideband correction to....

...


...

Gasp..

...

40%.

 

The amount of time it took me to get to this point is kinda sad.
SC/Mani taken apart.
Everything cleaned.
Re-Sealed and assembled.
SC mounted up.
Random other things re-routed and made to work together.
Injectors installed.
Etc Etc Etc

I somehow always thought it takes like 2-3 hours to install one of these bad boys. NOPE
To do it right and make sure everything is flawlessly routed, aligned, and working together is time consuming to say the least.
Should just be a few more hours of work though. I am going UUUUUBER slow and taking my time with this so I guess I shouldn't complain too much about how long it takes. I want to permanently modify the LEAST possible amount of parts/wires/etc so that's another really time consuming thing. If I start hacking/slicing/pounding faeflora style I'd probably do this way faster.


Onto the questions:

The SC sits way closer to the fuel line thingies than I have seen in pictures. Am I tripping or is my engine somehow closer to the passenger side than other cars? O_o I dunno



Anyways, the bracket/lines are in the way and I removed them:




What is the purpose of the looping lines like that? And what the heck is the little round thing? There's another one on the oem rail too. Dampener of some sort?

NB is return-less so its not a regulator that I know of.
My previous NB I didn't touch this part just installed bigger injectors.

My question is: instead of the bracket/loop wizardry can I just run a fuel line directly from the hardline to the rail?

Input/info welcome.

 

Yes, factory manual calls that a damper.

 

Isn't the fuel wet enough then? Oh wait I'm an idiot.

 

This.

As long as you do the usual non-linear corrections for low RPM stuff you'll be fine.

 

ninja edit ftw.

 

You put the idiot part in the wrong edit

 

So is it safe to remove/eliminate the damper?

*edit: doing a quick search shows many have done it and its no big deal.
Guess I'm deleting it then.

If anyone knows otherwise speak up