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Half Bottle of JD and a 12mm wrench
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Figured I would start up a build thread after the while I have been around here...
Little back history on the car... First post will be pic intensive. I won the car in an auction in Japan and had my source put on an authentic GV lip and limited edition Recaro SPG seat. Attachment 195287 Attachment 195288 Three months later the car arrived and I started doing what I do to cars. Attachment 195289 Rolled fenders for some wheels that I was given for working on a buddies car... Attachment 195290 Attachment 195291 Started to clean it up to make it easier to work on... Attachment 195292 Somewhere in here the car was put on Stance coilovers and I made it to a local event... Attachment 195293 Fried a clutch, the fragile plastic rad broke and that was it for my car for the season due to waiting for backordered parts.... so i started to get ready for boost... Attachment 195294 Bought splitimes turbo setup after building a junkyard setup to have the turbine wheel fall off... Attachment 195295 welded up some charge piping with a 22"x6"x2.5" no-name intercooler on a collapsable intercooler bracket for worst-case-scenarios... Attachment 195296 Attachment 195297 called up Emilio Attachment 195298 Cleaning it up... Attachment 195299 Put it all together to get it running for a dyno day in my shop... Attachment 195300 Attachment 195301 Cleaned up the interior with a few guages for the new setup, fuel bypass switch, hi/lo boost switch and CNC hydraulic ebrake... Attachment 195302 Had my dyno day... Attachment 195303 12psi and i was happy with it... ~3-4 weeks later my restrictor was clogged up with some foreign material and the bearings bit the bullet... in the down time i added some angle mods (I do occasionally drift) Attachment 195304 Picked up a new turbo from ATPturbo... 2871R 0.86AR and i hacked up the manifold/downpipe to mount the new turbo.... and i went screamer pipe... Attachment 195305 So here we are now... somewhere along the lines i welded in a complete rear section which meets DMCC specifications and I have been ripping for a good bit. Tuning EBC this weekend up to 12psi on the 2871 lead to me waiting for a tow... the head gasket is assumed to be the issue since it was leaking before at the oil orfice on the turbo side at the back of the head... Attachment 195306 Friday I am going to get my compression tester from my weekend shop and do a test + remove the head and work on getting it back. I have obviously left out some of the trials and tribulations that are turbo cars, but this is where I am and hope to motivate a few of you... Matt |
i have the head off and cleaned up.... and i just realized i left my laptop an hour away which has the FSM on it.
Can anyone tell me the torque specs and pattern of the head bolts? Thanks. |
I think I've seen your videos on youtube...
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boost comes on WAY too late with that .86 housing on a 1.6L...too bad this is a drift car.
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I go out to autox events and some grip days too... but noone ever really takes pics at those around here... so no footage of that.
Brain: boost really isnt that bad... but with the gearing that i have right now i would REALLY benefit from a 6 speed. i took a friend (who was skeptical) for a ride and he was impressed at the response. Also i intend to do the typical forged bottom with opg's and some serious headwork (includes IM) to make this thing breathe all the way to 8-8500rpm. Buffon... possible... i made a few crappy videos when I was getting the car together. Also there was a video from my tuner titled "mad miata" that was my first pull after the tune. |
What's a screamer pipe?
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external wastegate with the pipe vented to atmosphere instead of back into the exhaust.
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Does anyone have a picture of a 1.6 and a 1.8 exhaust gasket overlaid ontop of each other? im getting some ideas.
I found reference to it on solomiata website, but the picture seemed to have been missing. |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 616503)
Brain: boost really isnt that bad... but with the gearing that i have right now i would REALLY benefit from a 6 speed. i took a friend (who was skeptical) for a ride and he was impressed at the response. Also i intend to do the typical forged bottom with opg's and some serious headwork (includes IM) to make this thing breathe all the way to 8-8500rpm.
still not bad power out of a 1.6L with low boost. I do agree if youre trying to push 8.5K that housing has more potential. |
have people spun 1.6's that high?
i dont want to reinvent the wheel here to do it, and i also dont want a forged engine to end up as shrapnel when i do my first pull. |
you'll want three things: rods, oil pump gears and/or ATI super damper, and valve springs.
Markp used to spin his 1.9L that high all day long. |
So something within the engine is gone.
At the moment i have it apart and its off for the winter now and im debating a build or an SR swap... Im going to be transporting the whole thing up to my winterized shop and toss the engine on the stand to see what it looks like inside. |
How high do you rev up your 1.6 too. I'm running a 57 trim the boost "lag" that most complain about doesn't bother me. A ride in my Miata speaks for itself. Nice work that you are doing hope to see more.
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i want to rev it as high as i can and still make some power...which im hoping to get a powerband from 4500-8500 with proper cam degreeing and intake manifold tuning to shift the engines powerband into the boosted range.
Im looking into intake manifolds at the moment and when i go to talk to my machinist i hope to get a better idea. Plans so far are to forge the bottom with 8.8:1 supertechs with either mtuned or eagle rods, ACL race main and rod bearings, arp main studs, billet oil pump gears, supertech valve springs and retainers. machining will be very basic for now, overbore to 79mm after they magnaflux the block, and essentially the bare minimum they need to do to get it within the specs we come up with... on top of balancing the entire rotating assembly. its realistically just a cheap build to get the job done. When the time comes i will source a spare head to port out on a flow bench and do the solid shimmed lifters and cams to get the head flowing up there. |
Just talked to my machinist and he is good for taking on the engine build with me.
A few questions came up: Does anyone have the factory drawings with dimensions and specs pointing out things like bore alignment? he said that he likes to get everything to factory specs so he machines the bores to exact specs instead of working with the current bore centerline etc... Does a 1.6L have enough cylinder wall to machine without torque plates? (i was planning on running the 79mm pistons) Are there any miata specific tips or specs that are good to know besides standard and high performance engine building? This comes up as he hasnt built specifically a miata 1.6 and we are wondering if there is anything that is worthwhile that you wouldnt normally think of like oversizing an oil galley, removing piston squirters, etc... Chill... im getting this ball rolling.... Dissassembly pics come next week, but for now... where im at... http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3718663_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5941256_n.jpg |
1. No idea.
2. No idea. 3. Keep the oil squirters. |
i know that you would keep them... i am just using that as an example.
if i get all of the tips, tricks and specifics it will be the best it can be. |
I have no advice to offer... but I look forward to future shenanigans.
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:bigtu:
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Anyone have a CAD drawing of a 1.6L intake manifold flange? 2d is fine.
Im going to have one cut and make a complete intake manifold... not using stock anything on it. (yes i know, i will need injector bungs... thats easy) |
Looking at supertech valve spring kits and there are 3 kits out there
a single spring kit with 58lbs of seat pressure, a dual spring kit with a seat pressure of 49lbs and a dual spring kit with a seat pressure of 70 lbs. the coil bind lift is highest on the light dual spring kit, followed by the hard dual spring and then the single spring kit. if i plan to hit 8,500 (or even 9,000) is one of these spring kits better than the other? i am going to be running kelford 264 cams with 9mm of lift, so the lift is not going to be a factor here. |
Wirelessly posted
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...bmdlLmpwZw.jpg 99% complete CAD drawing of the 1.6 intake flange... Edit... that shows up really small on a computer apparently... |
I have a friend that has one made for the 1.6L I can take a few picture's.
Maybe give you few ideas on how you can get one custom made for your 1.6. I'll be waiting for Dec. perhaps next year to get a custom made IM for my 1.6. |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 626388)
at the moment i have it apart and its off for the winter now and im debating a build or an sr swap...
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yes, im still considering it... but not as seriously anymore.
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Nice turbonator.
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Thanks bro.
Ps... Intake manifold flange CAD drawing is finished. Im going to send it out to be machined later this week. If anyone is interested I can probably have more made up. |
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...foldflange.jpg
word up... im debating making a modular runner intake manifold so i can tune runner length on the dyno REAL world. This will also mean i can have different runners for autoX to get some torque or i can have different runners for drag/drift... word up |
What do you do for etesting? PM me if it's top secret ;)
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the car is jdm import.. its "grey market"
i have higher etest standards than a hotrod status car. |
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tore the engine down this weekend... i found my low compression issue...
Attachment 193629 Attachment 193630 this is cylinder #4... cylinder #2 also had a peice of missing ringland between the upper and intermidiate compression rings. I am picking up a set of supertech pistons from Tyson87 and some eagle rods, ACL race bearings and some ARP main studs and then heading to the machine shop. Try to keep the engine build cheap but make #350 will be fun. Edit: also i checked the crank endplay and was running around 0.010" which iirc Sav mentioned is a tad much for a long lasting miata engine. |
Have you thought about using a Honda intake manifold on your 1.6l? I'd take a look at the d-series manifold. At the very least, go buy a D-series intake manifold gasket and see what it looks like compared to the 1.6l miata motor. A skunk2 manifold for 150-250 bucks and weld the miata flange on, worst case scenario, would work great, as it does for the 1.8l I would bet.
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I have considered it, but im not interested in it.
The honda intake manifold on the miata engine thus far has yeilded "ok" results, but i want to see what a proper manifold will do with a large turbo setup. |
Can't wait to see this all put together!
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Water lines?
Where do you guys with the factory water port on the block run the opposing hose to? i feel like my water line being connected at the lower rad hose block and the factory water port on the side of the block isnt that effective in circulating and im redoing the coolant lines. With my DIY reroute I will not have the upper water neck and would prefer not to have a hose going to it. |
why not, one is before and one is after water pump.
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just because you could hear gurgling in the turbo coolant lines when i stopped and turned the car off sometimes.
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I have been using my build thread as a useless questions thread too... so how about this
I am going to be assembling my engine and i want to know if there is a difference between a rod stretch indicator and a traditional dial guage with base.... is it just a guage that is accurate to 0.00001"? most other things i am 100% competent at doing... |
The rod stretch gauge is just a dial gauge with a fixture. Both are typically measured by thousandths
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I have a special addition to my engine build.... should help me out with my goals...
Attachment 193419 just need to measure them with a micrometer to make sure that they will work for me... |
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started to tuck some wiring out of the way that i hacked together this spring and i got my pistons in from Tyson....
Attachment 193230 Attachment 193231 Attachment 193232 |
so i took the miata lifters out this weekend and measured to the skyline lifters.
The skyline lifters are 32mm OD and the miata ones are seemingly smaller (have the numbers written down in my VW) but if memory serves right they are 29.1mm OD. i will be talking to Bill Wilner of MiataRoadster to get some mazda comp lifters now that these dont fit :( Also i just received my COPS from gospeed81 and im cleaning those up tonight so i can build my sequential COP harness. |
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someone tell me if i am insane or not....
IS THIS A LONG NOSE CRANK? I think its not, but i have a pic to show that makes me think that im crazy... Attachment 193022 ok now here is the pic thats making me second guess my thoughts... a 2001 VVT engine from ebay.... http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/q...ioland/157.jpg |
Do you have a pulley that fits the crank? If it has 4 big slots, it's a short nose. If it has 8 smaller slots, it's a long nose. I don't think the short nose crank pulley will fit the long nose, so if you have a pulley that goes on, it'll be the right one.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 654637)
Do you have a pulley that fits the crank? If it has 4 big slots, it's a short nose. If it has 8 smaller slots, it's a long nose. I don't think the short nose crank pulley will fit the long nose, so if you have a pulley that goes on, it'll be the right one.
-Zach |
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did some stuff at the shop today...
this is the shop for those who commented before Attachment 192859 my crank pully... with the info above it is a long nose... http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/DSCF0013.jpg but when you look up close... it doesnt look like it would be a long nose... http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/DSCF0014.jpg wire tuck and shaved bay in the works Attachment 192860 Attachment 192861 im not going to use filler on this bay shave... my last bay i did that to went to crap when i had to bfh the fender for wheel clearence track side... Attachment 192862 Attachment 192863 Attachment 192864 new filter location i will be using... Attachment 192865 toyota coils which i will be wiring in sequential... Attachment 192866 |
thats a nice steering wheel
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if you want it, make an offer...
i wouldnt mind swapping for a leather wheel |
your steering wheel is on the wrong side...
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How much did you get that engine for?
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500us + ship...from quebec
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That's pretty good. Was this a salvage yard or a one off thing? Mind PM'ing me his ebay page if you have it?
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Can anyone verify that my above picture is long nose. It looks short to be a long nose. |
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nerding it up at lunch.... EGR delete plates to be sent out for VVT intake manifold.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/989fa681.jpg |
Isn't it getting really cold up there now?
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it was 1 degree celcius this morning and its the warmest day of the week (33F)
it will be cold... i need to get the engine in so i can tow it all to my heated shop. (which is further from me...) |
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Attachment 192486
Hollaaaaa...light grey, easy to spot leaks... unlike dark green. Engine should be in soon, when i get engine mounts. still have to do the frame rails and the other side of the engine bay.... |
Does anyone know where i could find a 1" rubber plug to plug the firewall where my AC lines used to be?
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any auto parts store should have grommets...even like ACE hardware.
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