Harvey's not so epic Greddy rebuild thread.
08-26-2013, 12:54 PM
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Harvey's not so epic Greddy rebuild thread.
Originally I was just going to post about adding an MS3 to my car since I already had the thing setup and just needed to get off the band aid setup. Then I broke a manifold to turbo stud.
So, here is my ugly *** setup with the stripes IC setup and the tony downpipe. This is with the heat shield removed from the turbo.
Even if the car sits out that lower panel probably shouldn't be black.
I'm thinking that's possibly due to this leaking...
That's the ATP Turbo hose that I'm using for the oil return (yes it runs all the way around the engine bay), which is some very thick stuff, but that end is toast. The cracks go all the way through. I think I might need to grind down the lip on the turbo oil return outlet, because that hose was nearly impossible to get on there and I'm thinking the stretching probably contributed to its deterioration. As it is though the rest of the hose looks fine so I'm probably just going to clip that end off and put the hose back on.
I did manage to get the manifold off without breaking anything, but the later attempt to remove the turbo from the manifold ended up breaking off two more studs. The first attempt got one stud off and we were feeling good, but then the other two just broke right off.
The turbo looks okay, spins fine, but definitely a gray to white coating on the fins indicating I've run lean. Not surprising with the bandaids and the inexact nature of the tuning. Probably the only thing that has saved me is that I only autocross the car for the most part.
I ordered Savington's stud kit for the turbo to manifold connection and we'll see if the manifold can be drilled out for 10mm. A friend has taken it to a machine shop for me after we aborted a try at a DIY fix.
I also ordered an upgraded PCV valve as I'm noticing some oil getting out from the system.
I've also got it on the docket to weld the AIT bung onto the end tank of the intercooler, so I'll have to get to the welder as my DIY skills in that regard are lacking.
So, here is my ugly *** setup with the stripes IC setup and the tony downpipe. This is with the heat shield removed from the turbo.
Even if the car sits out that lower panel probably shouldn't be black.
I'm thinking that's possibly due to this leaking...
That's the ATP Turbo hose that I'm using for the oil return (yes it runs all the way around the engine bay), which is some very thick stuff, but that end is toast. The cracks go all the way through. I think I might need to grind down the lip on the turbo oil return outlet, because that hose was nearly impossible to get on there and I'm thinking the stretching probably contributed to its deterioration. As it is though the rest of the hose looks fine so I'm probably just going to clip that end off and put the hose back on.
I did manage to get the manifold off without breaking anything, but the later attempt to remove the turbo from the manifold ended up breaking off two more studs. The first attempt got one stud off and we were feeling good, but then the other two just broke right off.
The turbo looks okay, spins fine, but definitely a gray to white coating on the fins indicating I've run lean. Not surprising with the bandaids and the inexact nature of the tuning. Probably the only thing that has saved me is that I only autocross the car for the most part.
I ordered Savington's stud kit for the turbo to manifold connection and we'll see if the manifold can be drilled out for 10mm. A friend has taken it to a machine shop for me after we aborted a try at a DIY fix.
I also ordered an upgraded PCV valve as I'm noticing some oil getting out from the system.
I've also got it on the docket to weld the AIT bung onto the end tank of the intercooler, so I'll have to get to the welder as my DIY skills in that regard are lacking.
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09-06-2013, 02:43 PM
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Getting the AIT bung welded to the IC end tank. Never had to get anything welded before (n00b) so I didn't even realize there is a welding shop about a 1/4 mile from my house hidden behind a diner. Convenient!
I'm gonna swap the motor mounts over to the Mazda comp ones. Should be easy (knock on wood) with the whole intake manifold gone. Will probably take pics since most of the threads that pop up have none.
I'm gonna swap the motor mounts over to the Mazda comp ones. Should be easy (knock on wood) with the whole intake manifold gone. Will probably take pics since most of the threads that pop up have none.
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09-06-2013, 04:27 PM
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I suppose now that I have found a welder/fab place I could try to have them change the oil drain up, but it really doesn't matter much.
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09-07-2013, 11:31 AM
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Borrow or buy a right hand drill, and it's supposedly easy.
That being said I've never done it. I was semi smart and did it with the pan off during a rebuild.
The greddy is one of the easiest to drain into the pan though, because you have so much room to fit the line.
That being said, do it the smart way first. Stick with your barbs + clamps for now, but when you tap the pan, buy a NPT-AN adapter, make a SS -AN drain line, and buy a drain flange for the turbo with either an -AN male end welded to it, or female NPT threads and buy another adapter. 45* swivel fitting on the pan end, straight swivel fitting up against the turbo.
That being said I've never done it. I was semi smart and did it with the pan off during a rebuild.
The greddy is one of the easiest to drain into the pan though, because you have so much room to fit the line.
That being said, do it the smart way first. Stick with your barbs + clamps for now, but when you tap the pan, buy a NPT-AN adapter, make a SS -AN drain line, and buy a drain flange for the turbo with either an -AN male end welded to it, or female NPT threads and buy another adapter. 45* swivel fitting on the pan end, straight swivel fitting up against the turbo.
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09-08-2013, 11:01 PM
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Swapped motor mounts today to the Mazda Comp mounts.
Here is the old driver's side front and back (or left and right as it were)
Yeah, that's not looking so great.
By comparison the passenger side seems to only have just started to crack, but who know.
If you have to do this job I'd definitely advise having the the whole exhaust side of the car removed as it was really pretty easy without anything in the way.
Just sort of happened to be that way in my case since the manifold is still out getting drilled.
That said, the passenger side was pretty easy to get out through the passenger front wheel well. I was able to pull the whole mount assembly out through there.
I sort of understand what you just told me, but I'll probably have to diagram it out before it fully sinks into my wee brain. 
At this point, I might leave the drain until I swap the clutch as the plan is to have the engine out when we do that. Could tap the pan pretty easily at that point and I bet my friends that are helping me do the removal have all the tapping tools as well.
Here is the old driver's side front and back (or left and right as it were)
Yeah, that's not looking so great.
By comparison the passenger side seems to only have just started to crack, but who know.
If you have to do this job I'd definitely advise having the the whole exhaust side of the car removed as it was really pretty easy without anything in the way.
Just sort of happened to be that way in my case since the manifold is still out getting drilled.
That said, the passenger side was pretty easy to get out through the passenger front wheel well. I was able to pull the whole mount assembly out through there.
Borrow or buy a right hand drill, and it's supposedly easy.
That being said I've never done it. I was semi smart and did it with the pan off during a rebuild.
The greddy is one of the easiest to drain into the pan though, because you have so much room to fit the line.
That being said, do it the smart way first. Stick with your barbs + clamps for now, but when you tap the pan, buy a NPT-AN adapter, make a SS -AN drain line, and buy a drain flange for the turbo with either an -AN male end welded to it, or female NPT threads and buy another adapter. 45* swivel fitting on the pan end, straight swivel fitting up against the turbo.
That being said I've never done it. I was semi smart and did it with the pan off during a rebuild.
The greddy is one of the easiest to drain into the pan though, because you have so much room to fit the line.
That being said, do it the smart way first. Stick with your barbs + clamps for now, but when you tap the pan, buy a NPT-AN adapter, make a SS -AN drain line, and buy a drain flange for the turbo with either an -AN male end welded to it, or female NPT threads and buy another adapter. 45* swivel fitting on the pan end, straight swivel fitting up against the turbo.
At this point, I might leave the drain until I swap the clutch as the plan is to have the engine out when we do that. Could tap the pan pretty easily at that point and I bet my friends that are helping me do the removal have all the tapping tools as well.
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09-09-2013, 09:17 AM
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That's a protective rust coating! It's mostly just surface rust. The car is relatively solid for having done ten years in New England. It lived farther south prior to this. Other than the (returning) rocker rust it's holding up okay.
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09-09-2013, 09:26 AM
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RSpeed: Door Seal & Moldings Miata MX-5
You just reminded me to order these things, because mine have disintegrated from sitting outside all the time. 23 years, that's all I get out of them? Lame.
You just reminded me to order these things, because mine have disintegrated from sitting outside all the time. 23 years, that's all I get out of them? Lame.
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09-09-2013, 12:28 PM
#13
You might want to look at build threads for ideas. Mine is relevant to the Greddy. Drilling/tapping the oil pan was really easy, and I retained PS and AC.
I would try to reroute your oil feed line so it is on the cold side of your heat shield. Easy to do. Pix in my build thread. The way you have it routed is a fire hazard (pressurized source of a combustible liquid pointed at the exhaust manifold/turbo).
You won't have any issues putting Andrew's studs into your manifold. Again, pix in my build thread.
Curly has some pretty good Greddy setup pix too, but his recent build threads focus on his much nicer Artech setup. Kotomile did a Greddy build before moving on to NSXs. I'm sure there are others.
Over the weekend, did 4+ hours on track running on wastegate pressure (5-6PSI). 0 issues.
I would try to reroute your oil feed line so it is on the cold side of your heat shield. Easy to do. Pix in my build thread. The way you have it routed is a fire hazard (pressurized source of a combustible liquid pointed at the exhaust manifold/turbo).
You won't have any issues putting Andrew's studs into your manifold. Again, pix in my build thread.
Curly has some pretty good Greddy setup pix too, but his recent build threads focus on his much nicer Artech setup. Kotomile did a Greddy build before moving on to NSXs. I'm sure there are others.
Over the weekend, did 4+ hours on track running on wastegate pressure (5-6PSI). 0 issues.
Last edited by hornetball; 09-09-2013 at 01:40 PM.
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09-09-2013, 01:57 PM
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I'll look at altering the feed line when I put it back together.
Like I said, I have no desire to tap the pan at the moment and will have a better opportunity when the engine is out. I'll look into the options for altering the drain prior to that.
Like I said, I have no desire to tap the pan at the moment and will have a better opportunity when the engine is out. I'll look into the options for altering the drain prior to that.
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09-10-2013, 05:54 PM
#15
Relevant pics of 10mm TSE studs in a Greddy manifold:
Also, if Hornetball is going to take inventory of Greddy builds I might as well add mine to the list (though mine is quite bastardized, hence the water lines). https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e-51374/page5/
I'd recommend running the oil feed line along the cam cover using cable clamps as it looks clean and keeps it away from the heat.
-Zach
Also, if Hornetball is going to take inventory of Greddy builds I might as well add mine to the list (though mine is quite bastardized, hence the water lines). https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e-51374/page5/
I'd recommend running the oil feed line along the cam cover using cable clamps as it looks clean and keeps it away from the heat.
-Zach
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09-10-2013, 07:47 PM
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Got a VTPS, the BMW one with the pigtail. Now I just have to wire it up right.
Looks like this guy has all the info in his gallery, but I should have it easier since I just need to cut off the Miata connector and wire in the BMW one the right way (am I thinking about that right?).
My Turbo Miata Photo Journal - Variable TPS
Found that here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/adaptroni...a-miata-46430/
I just swapped the PCV valve for the more robust one, but the spring clamp seems to have lost much of its clamping force over the ages. Probably have to pick up something new when I go get the exhaust gasket maker at the hardware store.
Oh, did I mention I've got a 3" Enthuza stainless exhaust on the way?
Looks like this guy has all the info in his gallery, but I should have it easier since I just need to cut off the Miata connector and wire in the BMW one the right way (am I thinking about that right?).
My Turbo Miata Photo Journal - Variable TPS
Found that here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/adaptroni...a-miata-46430/
I just swapped the PCV valve for the more robust one, but the spring clamp seems to have lost much of its clamping force over the ages. Probably have to pick up something new when I go get the exhaust gasket maker at the hardware store.
Oh, did I mention I've got a 3" Enthuza stainless exhaust on the way?
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09-11-2013, 09:44 AM
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Well, I got the intercooler back with the bung welded into the end tank. Very nice welding work overall, except I must have marked the wrong side of the IC, because it's on the front of the end tank, not the back.
At first I was a little put out by this, but I think actually it should be fine, because that section is behind the bumper and actually the back might be more exposed because I don't currently have the under tray on the car.
At first I was a little put out by this, but I think actually it should be fine, because that section is behind the bumper and actually the back might be more exposed because I don't currently have the under tray on the car.
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09-13-2013, 11:04 AM
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No working manifold or turbo yet (trying to get that sorted soon, but not getting responses to my queries), but I got this in the mail. Jason at Enthuza is quick to get these things out.
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