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A bit late to influence any decisions but I'll give some feedback anyways.
I've had my steering depowered for most of my 8 years owning my NB2. The only time I don't like it is when parallel parking. I don't think it's great for autocross, at least for me. With high caster settings and turning the wheel almost 90*, I feel my steering inputs get to be less accurate. On the flip side, on track I've gone for up to an hour without feeling tired. The improvement in feel is absolutely worth it for me. I welded the pinion, but there's now a clicking sound when I turn the wheel stationary, so those welds may have broken. Oh well.
With respect to brake cooling, with that monster setup you won't run into any issues without ducts, at least until the turbo. My NB2 has the larger sport brakes and I ran Stoptech Sport pads almost down to the backing plate without issue with my full fat NB2 LS on 205/50R15 RT660s. Am I setting SM times? No, but I'm not at the back of the pack either. Pretty much any pad available for the Superlite/F88 shape should be more than capable of handling the heat. Cooling will help pad life though, so no need to delay it unnecessarily either. The matching Supermiata duct kit is the bulletproof option that will provide better cooling when the time comes, so why mess with half measures like deflectors? Much like the BBK has lower running costs on track than stock brakes, after a few sets of pads the ducts could pay for themselves if you can get more life out of the pads.
Rebuilt rear calipers are a crapshoot, but they're the same price as a rebuild kit so it can be a hard decision. One of my rebuilt calipers had issues with the parking brake constantly falling out of adjustment. It took me a few years to bite the bullet and get another one. No issues since. If you have any more issues and don't want to rebuild, maybe consider buying new?
Thanks appreciate your 2 cents. Ya I think it'll be fine as well. I don't plan on driving the car anywhere that requires parallel parking. Ya I don't think I'm going to even bother swapping pads for my first track day with the car NA. I will leave the "street" pads on and I bet it'll be fine. They're definitely big, especially for ~100whp. I don't envision doing THAT many trackdays per year so I bet a set of pads will last me a while even with a turbo. The pad thickness is pretty nuts on these.
Thanks that's not too bad for a brand new caliper. Might not be a bad option if the remanned ones act up.
Signed up for a track weekend March 23-24 at Summit Point Shenandoah so gotta get my butt in gear and get the car done. It's the local track I've driven the most so I'll be interested to see how the Miata does. I'm just going to keep working and see what I can get done beforehand. I'm still waiting on my BMM ecu.
Regarding engine codes.. Will the stock ECU make the car run rough/odd if an EGR valve isn't plugged in at all? What about if I just blockoff the port? I remove the EGR exhaust tube in preparation for installing the new squaretop manifold and wanted to leave the EGR valve off completely. I don't want the car running poorly though. Eventually with the new ECU it won't be a problem but at this point I'm inclined to change the ecu/injectors/etc after the first track day.
I got some good work done last few days. Got the front suspension minus the swaybar all done and tightened. I got the BBK installed, dropped the rack and shipped out the pinion to get welded, Wilwood 1" MC installed, and the Wilwood prop valve mostly installed.. It took some fiddling and looking at other people's pictures to see how to route the lines. I'm reusing one factory hard line to connect a T for the front brakes.
I gotta say the pads are crazy thick with these calipers which means they should last a LOONG time. I'm sorry I didn't snap a pic of just the pads. Also, I test fitted a Konig Freeform 15x9.5 wheel and it clears the BBK no problem.
I hit one hiccup while installing the wilwood prop valve. My dumbass overtorqued the fitting and it bent. I guess I'm fortunate it didn't snap inside. The threads on these npt fittings were a little tight for sure, I could only get a few turns deep, but it is what it is. I emailed SM to get another one. A little annoying but not the end of the world. *sigh*
Sometimes I don't post my thoughts but some may ask why I opted to go with the Wilwood MC straight away.. Well, I have driven a couple Miatas (including this one) and the pedal isn't very firm. I'm hoping the 1" MC makes for a firmer pedal (it should). Plus, I was replacing so many things I figured might as well and not mess around and just put a new Wilwood in. The reviews I've read are favorable and no one seemed to prefer the stock MC after using the 1" Wilwood. I'm excited to get this thing on track next month.
Progress still happening fast! Nothing like a track day deadline to put a fire under your ***. The car's gonna rip once you get everything dialed in.
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
What kind of MC brace are you using? Mine doesn't come even close to clearing the new MC due to the stopper being positioned so much closer to the firewall.
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
What kind of MC brace are you using? Mine doesn't come even close to clearing the new MC due to the stopper being positioned so much closer to the firewall.
I'll let you know about the MC after I get it finished and put brake fluid in. Like you said it makes sense considering the MC is spaced ~1/2" farther due to the adapter plate for the booster.
The MC brace is a V8R. It's made for the wilwood MC.
Just a few more quick pictures and measurements. I was impressed with how thick the pads were so took out the caliper. The pad material (not including backing plate) is roughly .6" thick for each pad.
The rotors are beefy at roughly 1.25" thick.
I think I'll have plenty of brake capacity even w/o ducts when I install the turbo. I don't mind brakes a little on the bigger side.
Not sure if I missed it, but what pads are you currently running with the BBK? Rather than change what wasn't broken, I just got a set of Stoptech Sport pads for my F88 setup. With the 1" master you should have insanely good pedal feel. I've considered moving up to it, but my 15/16" MC was recently replaced and would show less of a difference than the 7/8" you started with.
Who are you running with at Summit Point? I'd like to get up there this year, but it's a 5 hour drive for me. It would be cool to chase a similarly modified Miata.
Not sure if I missed it, but what pads are you currently running with the BBK? Rather than change what wasn't broken, I just got a set of Stoptech Sport pads for my F88 setup. With the 1" master you should have insanely good pedal feel. I've considered moving up to it, but my 15/16" MC was recently replaced and would show less of a difference than the 7/8" you started with.
Who are you running with at Summit Point? I'd like to get up there this year, but it's a 5 hour drive for me. It would be cool to chase a similarly modified Miata.
Good question I didn't. I got some stoptech street pads for the rear OEM calipers and some Wilwood BP20 pads for the front calipers. I just bought them thinking I would change them out for the track but will probably run them while N/A. Here's a graph of the friction coefficient and temps. https://www.wilwood.com/brakepads/Br...compound=BP-20
I meant to compare them to a Stoptech street pad. I did a quick search and couldn't find a similar graph of the Stoptech street pads but I think I shouldn't have an issue with fade N/A.
It's an SCCA event. That's a hike. It's only about 1.5hrs for me which makes it convenient. Another friend is also signed up for the event (not a Miata) but the more the merrier as always at the track.
Anyone running a stock intake with the skunk2 TB? The larger diameter means the stock pipe won't fit. I was thinking of installing the squaretop manifold before the track day but really don't want to buy another intake that I will only use very briefly (I might be installing the turbo after the March event). I was thinking of different ways to ghetto rig it. Thing is MAF sensors don't like air leaks so it has to seal.
Another thing that I will install is a water pressure dummy light. I've seen some strange failures (like the pressed water fitting down by the water pump breaking) that caused people to lose engines. Thx to some folks on the FB group for sharing it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all80250 It's cheap and simple and can just put an inline switch between the sensor and the LED for the street when I don't want it shining. I think I'll try to install the SM coolant reroute before the March event.
You can get silicon reducers to make the merge between the J2 and the intake, that's what I did on my atmo racecar. You will have to make some adjustments to make the fit. I had an aluminium one made up for the turbo inlet.
.You should port your intake manifold to make the transition between the J2 and the manifold gentler than an angular step. I just did this when I installed my latest J2 on my new flattop, did it on the racecar too.
I have a water pressure sensor which I will be plugging into my new electronic instrument panel. Temperature sensors don't work when there is nothing there to sense! I haven't looked, but I am assuming you have done the Rx on the J2?
I've been running that way for almost two years now.
I got it to fit by warming up the throttle body, boiling some water, and using that to warm up the crossover pipe before slipping it over the throttle body.
I also recommend you knock down the sharp edge on the barb of the throttle body before you do this.
I've been running that way for almost two years now.
I got it to fit by warming up the throttle body, boiling some water, and using that to warm up the crossover pipe before slipping it over the throttle body.
I also recommend you knock down the sharp edge on the barb of the throttle body before you do this.
Is that the completely stock pipe or did you use another silicone coupler?? It's super tight and I thought the stock pipe wouldn't fit but if I can stretch it on with some effort that would be awesome! @OptionXIII
As I said in that thread, I am still fighting idle control issues with the stock ECU. I'm currently doing some more work to the car hoping to get them resolved. I think most people using the S2 TB are going to be on a standalone of some sort and have an aftermarket intake of some kind, which is why there isn't much documentation out there on crossover pipe fitting or complaints about idle control.
As I said in that thread, I am still fighting idle control issues with the stock ECU. I'm currently doing some more work to the car hoping to get them resolved. I think most people using the S2 TB are going to be on a standalone of some sort and have an aftermarket intake of some kind, which is why there isn't much documentation out there on crossover pipe fitting or complaints about idle control.
Thanks man I appreciate that! What's funny is I think I read your thread a long time ago about the J2 TB but forgot about that thread and that you were able to squeeze the stock intake on.
Having installed my Wilwood 1" MC just a couple days ago, I'm interested to hear about your install experience. I had to adjust my booster pushrod outward quite a bit to get it making good contact with the master cylinder. Didn't see anything about this in the instructions (although maybe I should've expected it due to the adapter bracket spacing the MC out a litle bit) and was very confused as to why my pedal was so low before making the adjustment. That being said, my pedal is VERY firm now. Don't think you'll desire any more firmness following the install haha.
I definitely didn't see anything in the instructions about adjusting the booster pushrod. Did you follow the procedure from the shop manual? I've never messed with a brake booster before and didn't know it was adjustable on the actual booster until now. I adjusted the brake pedal but now I'm thinking I did it wrong and need to remove the MC, measure the length of the pushrod and depth of the master cylinder piston, and adjust the pushrod length on the MC side.. It still seems to have a little slop in the brakes (could be some air still after bleeding but the depth on the pushrod probably isn't right) even after adjusting the brake pedal slack so I think I need to adjust it on the booster side. Any tips for how you did it are much appreciated. Did you apply vaccuum to the booster like the shop manual says?
Oh shucks, no I didn't do anything on the booster side haha. My bad for the vague explanation. I just adjusted the pedal throw under the dashboard until there was only a tiny dead spot before the pedal engaged the brakes. I actually ended up adding adding a little free play after adjusting to zero play because the pedal felt too high initially. My pedal adjustment rod is just about where yours is, maybe a bit less thread showing on the pedal side. I can post a pic of it here tonight.
Oh shucks, no I didn't do anything on the booster side haha. My bad for the vague explanation. I just adjusted the pedal throw under the dashboard until there was only a tiny dead spot before the pedal engaged the brakes. I actually ended up adding adding a little free play after adjusting to zero play because the pedal felt too high initially. My pedal adjustment rod is just about where yours is, maybe a bit less thread showing on the pedal side. I can post a pic of it here tonight.
Cool thanks, good to know what others are doing. Ultimately, it should do the same thing right? It's moving the rod out basically. I loosened the locknut in that picture and used some needle nose pliers to spin the shaft counter clockwise and extend the rod almost all the way. Is it the "right way?" I don't know. If it works, hell who cares.
Another thing I just found while googling.. does the MC need to create a seal against the booster? I saw some other people mention it in another thread but maybe a different booster works differently..? I threw out the old MC so I can't go take a look and see if there's some kind of seal/o-ring for the flange where the MC mounts to the booster. I don't remember there being one..
On another note big thanks to Ed at 949 for shipping the replacement fitting out quick for the Wilwood prop valve. I don't love how tight the npt fittings are so I got a 1/8" npt tap and ran it in the threads of the wilwood prop valve so the 1/8" npt fitting would get an extra turn.
Here's the brake system all installed and it's been bled. I'll probably have to rebleed it down the road (as there might still be some air in the lines) but the pedal is semi stiff. I had an old unopened bottle of ATE super blue that I used after dropping a bottle of brake fluid and making a mess while trying to bench bleed the wilwood MC. Make sure you bench bleed the MC first guys. I installed it w/o bench bleeding it like a noob and had to pull it to bench bleed it. Not too big a deal but I should've known better.
Oh yes also, Zak or anyone else.. How many turns do you have on the Wilwood prop valve..?
That's what I'm assuming as far as adjustment goes. Mine worked fine and I didn't die this weekend so there's some... anecdotal data lol.
In all seriousness, I really am interested in what scenario the booster rod would need to be adjusted from the booster side. I removed my MC after adjusting the pedal stroke just to make damn sure the rod wasn't preloading the MC or anything (it wasn't). I can't imagine needing to use the entire adjustment range of the brake pedal throw rod with a stock MC. With where mine is at currently, the stock MC would almost certainly have the brakes locked haha.
Originally Posted by SlowTeg
Another thing I just found while googling.. does the MC need to create a seal against the booster? I saw some other people mention it in another thread but maybe a different booster works differently..? I threw out the old MC so I can't go take a look and see if there's some kind of seal/o-ring for the flange where the MC mounts to the booster. I don't remember there being one..
I believe the NB2 boosters are of a different design and need the MC to seal against the booster itself.
That's a great idea tapping the prop valve threads. I remember when I installed mine last year, I was initially baffled by how few threads engage before reaching max torque on the fittings. I'm still not dead, but should probably do the same thing!
That's what I'm assuming as far as adjustment goes. Mine worked fine and I didn't die this weekend so there's some... anecdotal data lol.
In all seriousness, I really am interested in what scenario the booster rod would need to be adjusted from the booster side. I removed my MC after adjusting the pedal stroke just to make damn sure the rod wasn't preloading the MC or anything (it wasn't). I can't imagine needing to use the entire adjustment range of the brake pedal throw rod with a stock MC. With where mine is at currently, the stock MC would almost certainly have the brakes locked haha.
Cool well I appreciate your input because I'll just run it as is and not pull off the MC and mess with the brake booster. I'm pretty sure at the current brake pedal adjustment it isn't preloading the MC so I should be fine as well. I can always tinker with it a bit later down the road if I want to tweak it.
I believe the NB2 boosters are of a different design and need the MC to seal against the booster itself.
That's a great idea tapping the prop valve threads. I remember when I installed mine last year, I was initially baffled by how few threads engage before reaching max torque on the fittings. I'm still not dead, but should probably do the same thing!
Ah that makes sense then with the NB2 booster. Thx ya I got a die to check the 1/8" npt threads for the fitting and they seem fine. It seems like the female threads on the wilwood prop valve are what are a little on the tight side. They likely machine the piece and run a tap down the bore and the tap bottoms out before it can cut some deeper threads which would allow the npt fitting to thread in deeper. To really get the threads cut a little deeper you could cut the end of the tap off about 1/4" so the wider part of the tap reached deeper into the bore of the prop valve but I couldn't be bothered to put in that much work.
Something new I bought and tried that I thought would help would be a manual handheld vacuum bleeder. Maybe I wasn't using it properly but it seems like a pita. The manual handheld pump bleeder seems to pull air through the threads of the bleeder valves so I just went with the old tried and true 2 person bleed method and some gravity bleeding. I know there are some fancy power bleeders that pressure the MC with an air compressor and a fitted cap but sometimes the specialty tools aren't worth the headache unless you do that specific job a lot.
I need to get the car back on the ground, set the ride height, roll the fenders, and then take it for an alignment. I would like to run a leakdown on the motor just as a baseline to see where it's at but the old owner of the car contacted me and told me it's been well cared for so that's some good news. I will put off changing the timing belt/water pump as it was likely changed only a few years ago. I might install the new IM/S2 TB/coolant reroute before the upcoming track weekend. Also I will install a simple coolant pressure dummy light. I've read a few stories on here how the press fit water lines broke and people lost a motor. Here's a link to it on amazon.
So it doesn't bother me on the street, I'll put a switch inline with the sensor so it can be off most of the time. Regarding my other seat.. it looks like the package might be lost which sucks. Hopefully that'll get figured out soon. I also might try and get the harness installed for the driver's side before the event.
02-15-2024, 03:54 PM
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