I gotta burn up the skinnies before I put on the good stuff. I've spent roughly $6800 just on turbo hardware for this car. I'm pretty much "over" spending money. Who wants to buy my old ****?

XP12 on the front sport rotors, xp10 in the rear which are overheated. This is also with skinny rubber...time to man up.
I was able to relax and drive on the last 2 sessions of the day...it was awesome. I got soooooooooo much faster and started to learn how to manage the power and that its OK to get airborne in turn-8. It really is a different world with 3x the torque. I was looking at the gauges in the corners when I started the event, lol.

I need new brake parts first and foremost. I'm tempted to try again with the ducting in place though because I ran out of time thanks to my ebay boost controller's death on the dyno.

 

just whoring through:

 

can I kill hubs from getting the rotors really, really hot?

 

So I cranked the car this morning and it blew smoke for a minute or two then stopped. I drove 4-hours and burned no oil. I checked shaft movement and it movies in and out about 1m and "left/right" about 2mm, maybe less. I then cranked it with a water temp of 95*F and it did not smoke.

Should I have an oil restrictor in there?
Is the CHRA garbage?
What's going on? I'm scared, dad.
Am I the ****?
Do I get tons of bitches?

 

A couple SM guys came over to me during a track day and started asking about my wheel bearings/hubs. They asked if I had replaced them recently, or if I was having any problems with them. "They're a known weak point in miatas".

I had never heard such a thing.

 

They are when you drive fast on track. Hitting berms and curbs kills them quick. Most guys here will never have to touch them though.

Hustler: Known SM fix for longer lasting hubs is repacking them with Redline CV2 (I think) high temp grease.

 

I knew this last time but resisted becaise I was lazy. Should I buy Chinese ****, and pack with redline grease, or boy the Mazda **** for 3x the price?

 

We all use Mazda stuff... IIRC its ~$120 per front hub through Mazda Motorsports and ~$40 per rear bearing.
Does it have play? or are you just assuming its bad b/c of brake wear/temps?

 

I assume you are talking about your turbo. A BB turbo should have almost no movement in any direction. And by no movement I mean, basically none.

 

And you should be running an oil restrictor, yes. ATP sells 'em.

 

I need new brake parts first and foremost. I'm tempted to try again with the ducting in place though because I ran out of time thanks to my ebay boost controller's death on the dyno.[/QUOTE]

just to let you know, tws is real easy on brakes. most corners only take a sec. or 2 stab at the brakes.

 

I assumed from the heinouos noise, bt it may be the pads. I'm going to out street pads on tomorrow and find out. Thanks fr the info

 

Oil restrictor will be ordered tomorrow, unless this was included in the begi kit fittings and I never knew.

 

Jack it up, wheel still on grab the top and bottom and wiggle to try to see if there is any play. Possible for there to be no play but noise and be bad.

 

no play...I think its the pads flopping around. I gotta figure it out tomorrow so I can crush at ECR this weekend.

 

So you were talking about wheel movement? Not turbine shaft? irconfused. Either way, cool to see you lasted a full weekend.

 

******,

Are you a member at ECR yet?

 

It's good to hear trey talking about brake failure and not turbo hardware failure.......wait.......that's not good. At least he is happy!

4th fastest time of the weekend with no brakes. Congrats! Just wait until the car is ironed out. You'll be chasing FTD.

 

What color? White? Then it's just water vapor from standing overnight. You make babies cry.

 

considering that someone asked what was up with the big, blue, oil smoke cloud, its safe to say that you need to tone down the disrespect.