hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm starting to get serious about converting to MS2 for the track car, rather than the daily. I could run sequential fuel and hopefully cure some of the wet-out burnt valve problems, while seeing if the car runs any better.

Things that concern me:
Running the 12-tooth TSE crank wheel and getting it set-up properly
Modding the CAS as a cam sensor
Wiring in the injectors doesn't bother me too much
I have Toyota COPs, how the hell would I wire-in sequential spark for these?
Will I have any outputs left over to run things like water injection, boost control, or an input for EGT?
The 1.6 fan controls never worked with MSpnp, so I'm not sure how to set this up on MS2. Right now the Fan is controlled by JS2/boost control and it doesn't realy work right.

Its time for me to learn about small electronics, but the learning curve is kicking my ***.

So what do you guys think, is putting MS2 in this car worth the effort?

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Injectors and cops are easy. Cops, just run spark outputs on db15 and splice them onto the trigger wire of the corresponding cops. You will have two trigger wires form the ignitor and two from the DB15. Injector harness is pretty much the same thing. Fan control seems to be setup now so you don't have to use an extra output (from diypnp) experience. Boost control will have its own output. I think you would have one more output (again, this is from diypnp).

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

What do you need a 1 tooth cam wheel? that's pretty simple.

Just gotta run 4 individual inputs to the harness. So righ tnow you only have 2 wires from the MS controlling spark, you'd just make it so you have 4 - it's easy.

On a MS2, no, you run out way too fast when using seq fuel and spark. Honestly, ms3 is the way to go.

Non-issue. Simply *** circuit to ground a relay.

JasonC SBB

The G's from bumps (1-2 G) are nothing compared to the G's the cam lobe subjects the valve too (~1000 G)

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

With my MS2, you can have:

1) Sequential fuel
2) Sequential spark
3) Sequential twin fan control
4) Boost control
5) Tacho out
6) Knock in
7) AC in
8) AC out (sequential fans and compressor)
9) Power steering in
10) Clutch/neutral in
11) High/low boost level control in
12) VICS out
13) Switchable tables in
14) Launch control in

You can have these at the same time, not giving up any off the above features.

If you don't want sequential spark, you can have two programmable outputs in their place.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

well you're a cheater

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

ftfy

hustler

iTrader: (6)

How do I know which DB15 goes to which injector? I assume those are labled?
The igniter is from a 1.6, so will it have the spare wires in place? What is the big benefit of sequential spark?
How does the ECM know I'm on the compression stroke without a cam signal?
Too much political BS with MS3, it's supposedly not "open", and we know MS2 works well. I don't know enough about this stuff to go with the newest thing on the street. I still have Reverant on the hook for MS2 on my 1995, but I may change it if he lets me.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I really want two of these, lol. One for the daily, one for the track car. Unfortunately money is getting in the way. Now, if I could get $400-500 for my MSpnp9093 I'd get both.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Color code the wires, make an excel sheet. Buy the weatherpack connectors from diy, and you can then scribe the connector.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

The CAS already provides a crank and crank single. For example, im running seq. fuel and spark on my 1.6L on my 1.6L CAS.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

It's funny how people don't want to pay a fair price for an assembled standalone ecu because is cost as much or more the the kit they could buy from diy. Yet you see post after post of ecu troubleshooting. Come on people, an extra 100 bucks saves you 4 months of troubleshooting. I feel like I gave away my diypnp.

yank

iTrader: (1)

Well worth the 100$ extra and i haven't even started the troubleshooting yet..

y8s

iTrader: (8)

HUSTLERRR

I have a modded CAS that provides a 1-pulse sync signal if you want to save yours for.. um...something else.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Is it free or close to "free"? I've blown so much money out my *** over the last two weeks that I cannot spend anymore. If I can make my CAS work, I'd like to go that route.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Why not use the NB cam sensor? It would be easier then modding the CAS.

I still don't understand why you are afraid of the MS3x. Even with Reverents MS2 I think you will still have to run 2 additional injector wires and 2 more ignition wires.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I have no NB cam sensor because my valve cover is cut...because it came from a severely wrecked car...and I can't replace it because I have aircraft fittings welded on it for the catch-can.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

closer to free. the problem is it wont likely fit in a cheap shipping box.

and your other **** went out already...

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Ban for posting socialist propaganda in the main forums.

I may buy this off you next month after my ATM-crushed fissures heal.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

How many CMP teeth are in there?

What is the best way to set this up on my car? Do I need to convert my 12 tooth wheel to a 12-1, and if so which tooth do I cut? How do I get a CMP for sequentail? If I cut the guts out of my CAS, how can I be certain the single-tooth triggers after #4-decompression?

I know how to measure the CKP #1 angle (protractor), how do I measure the angle of the CAS due to its unfortunate location? I'm getting really tempted to get a 99 Valve cover and make this easier.