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Any updates on the miata? I know I watched one of your videos where it lifted a head or something.
The fuccboi burble tune stuff isn't my jam, but I enjoyed your latest video none the less. They are definitely getting better.
Keep the content coming!
Pretty soon, I have my old bp4w head at the machine shop right now. It's getting a 5 angle, backcut on stock valves, supertech heavy double springs and new seals, guides. My head isn't lifting now at 20psi I actually put in the Supermiata HB head studs and torqued them to 90ftlb. The car is actually running great but if I try running higher boost it starts to push coolant again. Pretty sure the hg is hurt but at lower boost it seems to be ok. Glad you like the content man. We are starting to get the hang of editing and have a better camera other than just gopros. Keep watching brother we will have a lot of cool stuff.
Haha yea the burbles are not for everyone. But my buddy wanted it and it was a good idea for a video. Plus we are trying out new editing techniques and seeing what people like and don't like. My shitty pov video is actually the best performing video we have. It's not bad but I can do so much better lol
Little progress update. New head is back from the machine shop. This is a BP4W head, stock valves backcut with a 3 angle valve job, supertech heavy doubles ti retainers, bronze guides, OEM stem seals. Did not port the head I honestly think this casting is pretty good and I don't need porting to hit 400whp.
Set the lash myself since I had a bunch of shims at home and it saved me money from my machinist. Set them on the loose side since they will tighten up when I bolt the head to the block. I made 373whp previously with a hurt hg and bone stock bp5a head. I will be transferring the bp5a cam over to this head when I drop it on the engine. This time I'm looking to hit 400whp. Will have build videos coming out soon as well. Stay tuned!!! ✌️✌️
Got the head pulled off the car today. Started working on it at 8pm had the head off by 11pm or so. Took some pictures for you all to see. The cometic hg was not sealing well on the head side but was fine on the block side. Always surface you're head before it goes on the car, I thought I could get away with scotch brite, and it was fine until I cranked the boost up to 20+psi. Gonna clean up the carbon on the pistons tomorrow and will take pictures and video of how to clean carbon deposits off. The red color is from the octane booster I use which is mmt based and leaves that orange/red looking stuff. Will update the thread tomorrow after I get some more work done on it.
Going to clean up the pistons tomorrow, the red color is from the mmt based octane booster I run. I'm not seeing any signs of detonation on the pistons which is nice to see.
Little shot of the head that was on the car, going to swap over the bp5a cam on to the new head. Running a radium rail which I love. This is the head side of the cometic hg. You can see where the gasket wasnt sealing, the block side of the gasket was fine Pile of parts. New fresh head sitting waiting. GTX2860r just waiting to make 400whp.
Your stuff looks nice.
That is one of the best "used" deck surface condition I've ever seen.
Just needs a tiny bit of clean up. Maybe with chemicals ONLY.
The picture of the port bugs me...
I WOULD NOT have left the port transition to the seat stock!
That 5 angle valve job is USELESS if they don't "blend" the port.
That's a flow killer in my book...
Making stuff like that into smooth "organic" transitions is what I call port "profiling"
It's 50% of the gains of a full port job...
Your stuff looks nice.
That is one of the best "used" deck surface condition I've ever seen.
Just needs a tiny bit of clean up. Maybe with chemicals ONLY.
The picture of the port bugs me...
I WOULD NOT have left the port transition to the seat stock!
That 5 angle valve job is USELESS if they don't "blend" the port.
That's a flow killer in my book...
Making stuff like that into smooth "organic" transitions is what I call port "profiling"
It's 50% of the gains of a full port job...
I totally agree with you. However I ran out of money for the head build. Starting a new job and money is kinda at a premium right now, I think just the fact that Ill have a HG that is sealing correctly and a fresh head with a fresh valve job/ti retainers/supertech springs will help more than anything. I made 373whp on a stock bp4w head before so really all I want is 400whp. I made 373whp with a leaking HG so Im hoping just addressing that issue will net me another 27whp. I did get the deck cleaned perfectly with just some brake cleaner and a microfiber ill post up a picture so you can see.
I would have loved to have a port job on the head but i think it will make my goal without it, and if it doesnt then Ill cry and wish I had lol. Will be interesting to see the gains. I will do some VD pulls on my favorite stretch of road and see what it shows. VD put me at 371whp and on the dynojet I made 373whp so its pretty accurate. Will be interesting to see the results.
Where did you source your braided turbo water lines? I still have my FM rubber lines which are on borrowed time.
Pretty sure its a MAMBA turbo GT28 water line kit. I have had them for 2 years and they work great. Yea the rubber lines DO NOT last long it just gets too hot over there.
Got some some work done on the car today, spent about 3 hours getting the majority of the carbon off the pistons. Used WD40 and a scotchbrite pad and i would say they are 95% clean now. The valve reliefs were the hardest part to clean the carbon off, a lot of it was really baked on there. I guess a lot of it is due to how rich I run in boost. I have always thought my timing was aggressive but the pistons and bores show ZERO signs of detonation which either means I should run more timing or I am in the sweet spot and just leave it the way it is hah.
Cleaned the deck surface as well. Wish I would have taken pictures of it but I ported the ever living **** out of the FM turbine outlet. I basically matched it to the gasket and really opened up the turbine outlet side and tapered the wg side. There was a lot of work done to the outlet and I think it will flow better but virtual dyno will tell all. Tomorrow I will finish everything and start the car and hopefully everything runs great and there are no leaks etc. Im looking forward to seeing if there are any gains, I find it hard to believe there wont be but I dont want to count my eggs before they have hatched. The car was fast before so even if it doesnt pick up power at the very least the HG will be sealing correctly and I can turn up the boost higher than 22psi. Anything over 22psi previously would push coolant as the head side of the HG was not sealing as you can see on a previous post of mine. I plan to completely max out this turbo, maybe 25-26psi and whatever it will hold to redline. Hoping to see 400, thats been my goal now since spring. Will update tomorrow.
Got the pistons as clean as I could with wd-40 and scotch brite pads. Got 95% of the carbon off them. Cleaned the deck surface with brake cleaner and a microfiber, it's as smooth as you can get for being 2+ years since the block was installed. Radium rail with grams 750cc EV14, flowforce injector kit. Too bad the flattop hides most of this when it's installed on the car. Got the head and lower manifold back on the car. Tomorrow will finish it up and set timing. Pretty much 4 hours of work left.
Looks great man! I'd love to see your timing map, have you posted it somewhere?
It's on a Hydra but I can post up a picture in here. I have one map I use for 93 octane and the other one I run most of the time it's 93+vp octanium which is roughly 100 octane and you can run a ton of boost with it and about 2* more advance based on my experience and looking at knock voltage. I'll post up a picture in a second taking a hot bath after working on the car lol. Bubble bath even.... I'm a sucker for a bubble bath. Lololol
Looks great man! I'd love to see your timing map, have you posted it somewhere?
93 octane. I never run more than 18psi on this map. Boost cut is set to 20.5psi on this map so the higher boost cells I don't ever reach on straight pump. This is my 100 octane map, I run allofit on this map is been up as high as 24psi but the head would not seal so mostly I would run 21-22psi. Hopefully now I can run more boost like 25psi and whatever the turbo will hold to redline.
I have my GTX2860R gen2 laying around, but don't have time to fit it :/ Weather is also **** here in Germany, 5°c and rain, don't want to kill myself and the car
Got everything buttoned back up today, things took a lot longer than expected because after installing the BP5A intake cam I had to set the lash on 5 valves again only on the intake side. Luckily I had my spare head and a bunch of shims from another head that my buddy got from a junkyard that ended up being trash but he let me have all the shims from it. Intake lash is .008-.007" and exhaust lash is .011-.010". So that took a little while. While I was putting everything back together my OCD got the best of me and I refinished the throttle body and clearcoated it. I also got the Gates timing belt back to BLUE since 10k miles had made it look a little dirty. Cleaned all the timing belt covers with tire shine and set the timing. I installed a good used Crank pulley since my old one had 2 cracks in the elastomer and I didnt want it to slip.
Set the ARP head stud TQ to 90ftlb. I use the Supermiata HB studs and they are good for 90ftlb and since I plan on running ALLOFIT I need the extra torque. Used an OEM headgasket this time around instead of the Cometic that i was using previously. Also painted the cam gears metallic gold and I think it really adds something to the bay it looks great.
Didint get a chance to start it today, I want to drain the old oil and throw in some random 10w30 and let the car come up to temp and then drain it. Since I used Assembly lube on the cam gears and ARP moly on the studs the oil will get a little dirty so I figure it might be a good idea to run some cheap oil in it and drain it so that I can have a nice fresh mobil 1 oil change afterwards. I was gonna go to walmart and pick up some cheap oil but they close at 11pm right now because that RONA' life. So tomorrow I will start it and hopefully fingers crossed no leaks and everything runs as it should. Its always nerve wracking when you do so much work on the car and you just want it to be perfect when it starts lol. I think we can all relate to that.
Went into obsessive cleaning mode. The timing belt had this black scuff marks from just being used for 3 years, little bit of simple green and a microfiber makes it look new again. Everything is back together. Another shot of the bay. Painted the cam gears metallic gold high temp. Thought it went nicely with the red VC. I cleaned the throttle body and clear coated it. Cleaned all the timing covers and made them look new again. A clean engine bay makes me very happy.
I usually start a build on specific break in oil.
What makes that stuff special?
It's non-detergent and it has shitloads of ZDDP in it.
Cheap Walmart oil will work OK, Yours is not a "full" build this time...
Add ZDDP to whatever oil you use. You can buy this stuff in little bottles.
You DON"T have to use much, the 12 oz "Lunati engine break in additive" I use is good for 4 oil changes.
Use it in the Mobil1 as well. It will not hurt anything but a monolithic cat and it significantly reduces scuffing damage.
Piston skirts and camshaft lobes/shims is where it helps in a BP...
I usually start a build on specific break in oil.
What makes that stuff special?
It's non-detergent and it has shitloads of ZDDP in it.
Cheap Walmart oil will work OK, Yours is not a "full" build this time...
Add ZDDP to whatever oil you use. You can buy this stuff in little bottles.
You DON"T have to use much, the 12 oz "Lunati engine break in additive" I use is good for 4 oil changes.
Use it in the Mobil1 as well. It will not hurt anything but a monolithic cat and it significantly reduces scuffing damage.
Piston skirts and camshaft lobes/shims is where it helps in a BP...
That's interesting, I need to look into the zddp additive. That's pretty cool. Thanks for the tip brother
I have my GTX2860R gen2 laying around, but don't have time to fit it :/ Weather is also **** here in Germany, 5°c and rain, don't want to kill myself and the car
Get that thing installed man! I would like to see others running the same turbo and pushing it. There are a couple guys on FB that run it. One guy has a NB with a bp4w and a built motor with 264 cams and e85. He hit 403whp/320ftlb with it at like 19psi. The cams really helped his car after 6k it keeps climbing until 7500rpm.
Got the car started today, no leaks and no issues whatsoever its runs like it always did, except the HG isnt leaking anymore. Coolant level is solid as a rock now. I kinda want to go out and do some VD runs but its like 27* here and the Maxxis VR1 tires turn into like plastic big wheel tires when its this cold. You might as well be ice skating, I dont think the car will even hook up in 5th. I tried 4th at part throttle and it just instantly got sideways lol. Im happy it runs. I will have Youtube videos out probably in a couple days on the head install and ill throw up links in here. If any of you havent checked out our Youtube channel look for the link in my sig. Thanks!
Sounds nice man. And I really gotta sit down and work on my timing map. I'm using the default trubokitty basemap and from memory its noticeably more aggressive at high RPMS than yours, which scares me. I've yet to really crank the boost though.
Sounds nice man. And I really gotta sit down and work on my timing map. I'm using the default trubokitty basemap and from memory its noticeably more aggressive at high RPMS than yours, which scares me. I've yet to really crank the boost though.
Post up your map, I would be interested to see it.
I have some bad news regarding my build. When I was torqueing the head studs ( supermiata HB studs 90ft/lb ) I had the tq wrench "slip" and a loud crack noise. I was able to tq the stud in question to 90ft/lb after that and got the car together and it ran fine, figured everything was ok. Well after 20+ miles now I am having an issue at idle where after the car warms up it stars to smoke and run like a Subaru. Its definitely coolant bc I can smell it. It was the rear stud on the #4 cylinder on the passenger side. I have a feeling the head cracked and its leaking coolant into the cylinder once the car warms up. I pulled the VC and the stud in question and I didnt see any crack at the stud boss on the top of the head, but I think the issue lies beneath it. I have a feeling this head is gonna be trash, I dont know when Im gonna have time to pull it off and right now I cant afford to really do anything to it. I will still have head install videos and whatnot, but Im pretty bummed about it.
The car will run ok when you are driving but at idle it just POURS smoke once it warms up, coolant temps are slightly higher than normal and its losing coolant so I know something is fucked. Sigh, DO NOT torque your stuff to 90ft/lb no matter what Supermiata says on their site, I was following the correct sequence and its like the 10th time I have done studs on a miata so its not like I dont know what Im doing. Oh well, things happen. Thought I would update and let you all know that 2020 strikes again.
10-31-2020, 01:12 AM
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