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Finally some more progress, my buddy was sick for over a week and it slowed the build since Im using his lift. Got the subframe dropped out of the car, cleaned it up and got rid of any rust on it. The old engine is very sad looking, the front seal was leaking like crazy, its done 220k and probably never had that seal changed so you cant really fault it. Forgot to disconnect the OEM clutch hose from the transmission and snapped it when dropping the subframe out. No worry, I ordered a braided stainless line that goes from the master to the slave since the OEM setup is pretty dumb anyways. Pics...
New engine is ready to drop into the car. I need to find a 1/8" NPT 90* fitting for my prosport oil sending unit. I have the Trackspeed adapter and the sending unit will hit the block when I use the sideport that was previously used for the oil feed. This block is an older 94 and so it has the oil feed on the drivers side. I pulled the head off the old engine and the head gasket had a split between 1 and 2. Thats where my compression was going. The pistons all have a tiny amount of either FOD or slight detonation at the edges. Im leaning toward light detonation, before the turbo I was running a bunch of timing advance I think 16BTDC and still using 87 octane. When I went turbo the plugs always looked perfect with no salt and pepper.
More progress. Wiring harness is now in, AC Compressor is back in the car. As anyone with a miata with PS and AC knows space over on that side of the engine is at a premium. I wanted to just get rid of the AC but my buddy convinced me to keep it, I guess it is nice to have at times its just a bitch to fit all the turbo items in with it in place. Still need to do a couple more things wire in gauges/ fuel pump install / bleed the clutch but the car should run by the end of the week.
Engine runs, no leaks, pulls 22/in vacuum after a little piston ring seating just free revving the engine. Have not driven it yet that comes tonight after I get off of work. Got too late last night finishing up the gauge wiring and cleaning up loose ends, etc.
Dont mind the oil pressure sender there near the firewall, that has been tucked away. Ran the sensor off the drivers side oil gallery in the head. Figured it would show lower pressure up there and wanted to make sure the engine had oil pressure before we started it. Cranked it 2x for 20 seconds with the coils and fuel inj relay unplugged, got oil pressure pretty quickly. When running Im seeing a max of 70psi idle is about 25-30psi warm. Boundary Stage 1 w/ 2 shims.
Powerstop rotors and pads, Stoptech SS Braided lines
I have been able to put 100 miles on the engine now, runs great. One big issue however is a small oil leak has developed. It seems to be leaking from the oil pump from either the allen head bolt or behind that. When I installed the pump I put the O-ring in as well as RTV around the portion of the pump that has the channel for the RTV. The O-ring did seem slightly small as it didnt fit into its bore as tight as I would like. I really dont want to pull the engine so Im really hoping its the allen head bolt thats leaking. I can see the bolt and the threads look wet and oil is pooling around that area. I read where someone else had an issue with a Boundary Pump with the allen bolt....I would rather it be that since its pretty easy to get to. The engine makes good oil pressure , I would think that if the Oring wasnt installed or was leaking that the engine wouldnt make sufficient oil pressure.
Sick! This gets me amped to drive mine again. Oil leak still an issue? I'm about to put my oil pump on now and need to order an o-ring.
Thanks man, I did fix the leak it was the Allen head plug on the pump. Apparently boundary used an incorrect size and they don't use any sealant, and it wasn't on there very tight. I took the correct tapered plug out of my own pump and used liquid Teflon and viola, no more leak.
It now has 225/45/15 Hancook RS4 on all 4 corners. Got it aligned with specs from Supermiata for the auto-x/street. I work at Mini Cooper so I have access to our alignment rack which is awesome. I installed an oil catch can on the passenger side, and left the drivers side open with a breather filter. The can is getting fuel vapors and a slight amount of oil after 500 miles of hard driving so its doing its job. Ive also been doing a lot of Logging on the Hydra so try to fine tune the spark and fuel tables. Car is currently running 13psi and spins the RS4's in second gear even when its 90* outside so shes healthy.
The exhaust we had made was slightly boomy/drone prone. We did the math and welded in a heimholtz and the drone is literally gone. AMAZING
It was super loud before the heimholtz. Now its much more civil. Its not quiet but it sounds good to my ears. The muffler is off my friends old NA miata drag car, he had it laying around for 10+ years so the price was right. Its a Borla XR1 and shes as straight thru as it gets.
Figured I would update this thread since it's been a while. Finished the build last June and took it to the gap last year. I have beaten the **** out of it and it loves it. Probably have 4500 miles on this build at this point. Running 18psi on 93 octane with the gr2560 is just fun. The car is very quick but it's not uncontrollable, in my opinion it's the perfect amount of power for a Miata. Going for more starts to break things and the chassis starts to show it's weaknesses. I have not had a chance to Dyno it but it's in the 280-300 range. My previous Miata made 296whp on a mustang Dyno and this car feels very similar but with much better spool.
Here is a acceleration video I took the other day 30-110 mph. 60-100 in 5.5 sec. You can see it spin 3rd slightly and just rip from there.
Figured I would update my thread my car has seen a lot of mods in the last year. Off the top of my head here is everthing that has changed. Running a GTX2860R Gen2 now, Garrett Intercooler, FM sway bars, Repainted my valve cover for ***** and giggles, Grams 750cc injectors replaced my old *** RC550's. Pretty sure there a bunch of little things I did but cant remember them all lol.
I was running a 2560 previously @18psi and I can say that the 2860 Gen2 spools almost identically to it but can make +100 more hp. Thats pretty darn impressive. I still have a 2.5" downpipe from FM and their manifold and turbine outlet so there is some power to be unlocked if I felt like changing those things, but I think its pretty happy where its at right now. The car will spin 3rd even when its super hot outside and if its cool itll spin 4th and thats 225/45 VR1 so shes making some good power. The sway bars from FM worked out great, I set it to full stiff front and full soft rear and it gives the car a very neutral handing balance and flattens it out nicely. Still plugging away with my Hydra 2.5 and I actually love that ecu. I know it like the back of my hand now and Ive been self tuning it for years now and cant really fault it. Hope you all enjoy this little update. , Most Recent VD run. 23psi, 17* of timing at the top end. Running 93 octane with octane booster that actually works and this is roughly 100 octane. Current look of the engine bay. Arashi billet GTX gen 2 wheel that will replace my gen 1 GTX wheel and make my 2860 a gen 2 unit. GTX2860R Gen2 with red anodized billet wheel. Garrett Intercooler, MST wheels, Maxxis VR1
Got the little NB and the Kouki RSX Type-s. For a DD the RSX is pretty spot on. S13 has a LS1 with a big BW turbo makes 650+, FD is a LS7 makes 490whp Ready for the Gap, Coronavirus edition
06-13-2018, 12:11 PM
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