Something about GLTC/ST5/TT5
07-12-2017, 08:02 PM
#204
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Finally got around to putting this new header in.... along with a new exhaust system.
This thing goes WAYYY back!
New 2.5" system that a buddy of mine made me. Used another Borla Pro XS muffler.
Going to Barber at the end of the month the weekend before MATG!
This thing goes WAYYY back!
New 2.5" system that a buddy of mine made me. Used another Borla Pro XS muffler.
Going to Barber at the end of the month the weekend before MATG!
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08-07-2017, 02:33 PM
#206
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Time for an update! I did Barber last weekend and was at MATG most of last week/weekend.
Saturday at Barber was good. I put down a pretty timid lap in the first timed session of a 1:46.0xx which was good for first place out 9, but also reset the TTE record.
And two laps from that session, I really think that second lap was going to be in the 45s, but hit traffic. mid-low 45s is was what I was aiming for that weekend.
Sunday morning I was pretty focused on getting into the 45s. It was much cooler out, track was rubbered in, and I felt confident. Unfortunately not everything goes according to plan!
Yes! I forgot my hans hook-up :-\ I was doing my normal routine, which consists of me out of the car putting helmet, glasses(or sunglasses), and hans on. During which time an anxious car almost hit me so it threw me off.....that's the only excuse I got besides being dumb.
I noticed a vibration Saturday afternoon in the last session, but I chalked it up to an unbalanced wheel since I swapped to my older set. Well..... on lap 2-3 of the Sunday morning session I came around T16 and noticed it was wobbly and thought "oh **** I think my wheel is coming off" finish that lap, brake soft and early for T1 and went for a spooky understeering ride. Hoping to limp it back to the pits, but..... didn't make it. I was fortunate enough to only be doing ~30-40mph when it popped off.
Did MATG as usual. Morning routine is as pictured.....
Drove a little, ate some good food, and drank a lot. Good times.
Heading to Mid-Ohio at the end of August!
Saturday at Barber was good. I put down a pretty timid lap in the first timed session of a 1:46.0xx which was good for first place out 9, but also reset the TTE record.
And two laps from that session, I really think that second lap was going to be in the 45s, but hit traffic. mid-low 45s is was what I was aiming for that weekend.
Sunday morning I was pretty focused on getting into the 45s. It was much cooler out, track was rubbered in, and I felt confident. Unfortunately not everything goes according to plan!
Yes! I forgot my hans hook-up :-\ I was doing my normal routine, which consists of me out of the car putting helmet, glasses(or sunglasses), and hans on. During which time an anxious car almost hit me so it threw me off.....that's the only excuse I got besides being dumb.
I noticed a vibration Saturday afternoon in the last session, but I chalked it up to an unbalanced wheel since I swapped to my older set. Well..... on lap 2-3 of the Sunday morning session I came around T16 and noticed it was wobbly and thought "oh **** I think my wheel is coming off" finish that lap, brake soft and early for T1 and went for a spooky understeering ride. Hoping to limp it back to the pits, but..... didn't make it. I was fortunate enough to only be doing ~30-40mph when it popped off.
Did MATG as usual. Morning routine is as pictured.....
Drove a little, ate some good food, and drank a lot. Good times.
Heading to Mid-Ohio at the end of August!
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08-31-2017, 10:05 AM
#210
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Another day, another beer!
So not that any of us had any doubts, but Dan is a ******* wheelman.....man.
This was a new PB for him, previous was a 1:41.8xx I believe? I was just happy to see my car being competitive! Keeping in mind the record was reset the session before this with a 1:40.8xx by Neumansis. Seriously though, good job Dan.
There's some obvious short-comings from my car as well. These aren't as apparent on most of the track I run, I'd say Barber is the closest to Mid-O for what I've done and I've noticed these thing, but not as bad as they are at Mid-O.
1. My torsen sucks, I need to flush it again(and again? j/k I need an OSG)
2. I need to install my prop-valve. I've never had this much rear lock-up issue. It even did it coming into madness.
Anddd here's my timid *** going around the track. My best was a 1:44.3xx on my 3rd official session in the late afternoon. I honestly can't wait to get back up to this track, it's a BLAST! I actually properly depowered my steering rack before this event. So I was still getting use to the incredibly light steering, I never realized how stiff it was before.
Side-note, here's the sticker on the dash...... guna have to get a new version that you can see better:
Unfortunately my weekend was cut short. Had some rod-knock after my last session on Saturday.....actually you can see the tach jump from what I think is a miss-fire. I suppose the rod had enough slop in it to cause this? I honestly thought about having Dan SENDING IT one session on Sunday morning, but decided it was best to try to save this engine for a rebuild. The knock is only present around 2500rpm and on an increase in rpm, it does not knock on decel nor at idle. So I'm hoping the current damage is minimal.
I'm leaning heavily towards a 0 point rebuild on the engine. I realize it's not the best $/hp ratio or the best route for ultimate n/a hp, BUT I know it will be more reliable and should allow a decent power range to run PTE, S2 w/ SPM. or even PTD if I put my 5A cam in it and square-top manifold I have sitting around.
10:1 83.5mm OEM pistons, oem weight Manley rods, ARP rod/main/head studs, ACL bearings(hopefully standard size), ST light double spring kit, oem valves, new seals, machine work on the engine to allow for new pistons, possibly balance rotating assembly(?), other items I can't think of right now....... OH qmax reroute(finally) and since I would be dropping quite a bit of money on the engine I will want an oil cooler setup as well..... most likely TSE since it's the nice easy button, I don't have to brain, and I apparently hate money.
I'd modify my current intake to have the bend down further away from the TB inlet, run my current Stahl header, full exhaust, and ECU (+9 points here). I feel confident with that engine and these mods I could make a consistent 140rwhp on 93 and even more with e85 if I actually go that route. Hopefully with a relatively flat power-band as well. To fit the ecu(+3), I'd swap back to stock sways(-2) and run SM7s(-1) OR stock sways (-2) and stock intake (-1), but that also means I'd have to swap hoods since my louvers count towards intake points. I also wonder if there's power to be had in the intake piping. I recently found out I can NOT claim SM7s with my NASA Hoosier contingency *cry*
The other option is to source another junkyard BP4W. Not a terrible option, since that's what this engine was. It lasted about 2.5 seasons, the first 1.5 seasons I was actually driving the car to the track with tire-trailer in tow, many auto-x's in there, and ~10k street miles. Since it was in unknown condition when I got it, I suppose I can't complain. The problem with this option...... I can't seem to find a sub 100k BP4W for under $1000 now
So not that any of us had any doubts, but Dan is a ******* wheelman.....man.
This was a new PB for him, previous was a 1:41.8xx I believe? I was just happy to see my car being competitive! Keeping in mind the record was reset the session before this with a 1:40.8xx by Neumansis. Seriously though, good job Dan.
There's some obvious short-comings from my car as well. These aren't as apparent on most of the track I run, I'd say Barber is the closest to Mid-O for what I've done and I've noticed these thing, but not as bad as they are at Mid-O.
1. My torsen sucks, I need to flush it again(and again? j/k I need an OSG)
2. I need to install my prop-valve. I've never had this much rear lock-up issue. It even did it coming into madness.
Anddd here's my timid *** going around the track. My best was a 1:44.3xx on my 3rd official session in the late afternoon. I honestly can't wait to get back up to this track, it's a BLAST! I actually properly depowered my steering rack before this event. So I was still getting use to the incredibly light steering, I never realized how stiff it was before.
Side-note, here's the sticker on the dash...... guna have to get a new version that you can see better:
Unfortunately my weekend was cut short. Had some rod-knock after my last session on Saturday.....actually you can see the tach jump from what I think is a miss-fire. I suppose the rod had enough slop in it to cause this? I honestly thought about having Dan SENDING IT one session on Sunday morning, but decided it was best to try to save this engine for a rebuild. The knock is only present around 2500rpm and on an increase in rpm, it does not knock on decel nor at idle. So I'm hoping the current damage is minimal.
I'm leaning heavily towards a 0 point rebuild on the engine. I realize it's not the best $/hp ratio or the best route for ultimate n/a hp, BUT I know it will be more reliable and should allow a decent power range to run PTE, S2 w/ SPM. or even PTD if I put my 5A cam in it and square-top manifold I have sitting around.
10:1 83.5mm OEM pistons, oem weight Manley rods, ARP rod/main/head studs, ACL bearings(hopefully standard size), ST light double spring kit, oem valves, new seals, machine work on the engine to allow for new pistons, possibly balance rotating assembly(?), other items I can't think of right now....... OH qmax reroute(finally) and since I would be dropping quite a bit of money on the engine I will want an oil cooler setup as well..... most likely TSE since it's the nice easy button, I don't have to brain, and I apparently hate money.
I'd modify my current intake to have the bend down further away from the TB inlet, run my current Stahl header, full exhaust, and ECU (+9 points here). I feel confident with that engine and these mods I could make a consistent 140rwhp on 93 and even more with e85 if I actually go that route. Hopefully with a relatively flat power-band as well. To fit the ecu(+3), I'd swap back to stock sways(-2) and run SM7s(-1) OR stock sways (-2) and stock intake (-1), but that also means I'd have to swap hoods since my louvers count towards intake points. I also wonder if there's power to be had in the intake piping. I recently found out I can NOT claim SM7s with my NASA Hoosier contingency *cry*
The other option is to source another junkyard BP4W. Not a terrible option, since that's what this engine was. It lasted about 2.5 seasons, the first 1.5 seasons I was actually driving the car to the track with tire-trailer in tow, many auto-x's in there, and ~10k street miles. Since it was in unknown condition when I got it, I suppose I can't complain. The problem with this option...... I can't seem to find a sub 100k BP4W for under $1000 now
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10-10-2017, 11:49 AM
#211
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Updates!
I went up to Indy for frens and engine....
A wild Hater appears!
Went with the dudes to a dyno and the shop had a car with this setup....
In this car...... which is basically a death-land-barge.
Had this cider, which is definitely the best I've ever had. This also means I'll probably never find it again.
Came home and sold STU Z ver 2.0. Guna miss having a Z around, but it all worked out.
On with the actual car. Here is it's current state.
So I bought a good condition short-block from Cameron(vteckiller) that I'll using with my current head. The goal is to have this engine last until NASA/Greg figures out ST6/TT6, so HOPEFULLY no more than two seasons. Doing new valve-stem seals on the head since I knew they were leaking quite a bit. They were likely a large portion of my oil loss. The engine actually came back with good compression(wet/dry) and leak-down numbers, which was encouraging. Shim clearances were all within spec, with one exception on one #3 intake. I ordered Supermiata Qmax reroute, so I'll finally have a reroute! Qmax, clutch hok, and all seals/gaskets will be going on this week. Installing the reroute while the engine is pulled should make it easier. Also installing my prop valve for the brakes.... finally!
When I drained the trans fluid I noticed how uhhhh funky the magnetic plug is looking.....
The trans doesn't do anything out of the ordinary, besides it whining a bit more. I chalked that up to the AWR engine mounts since that's when the noise really became prevalent. Either way I should probably source a spare transmission soon
I'm planning to have everything buttoned back up in time for CMP on Nov 10-12. Hopefully my dad will be out there running the car in DE3/4 as well. There might even be some MKturbo shenanigans going on at CMP too!
Scheduled cage install with my local shop for January/February, depending on his schedule. I'm the most excited about getting into w2w with the car. It's a goal I've set for a long while and I think I'll enjoy it a lot.
I went up to Indy for frens and engine....
A wild Hater appears!
Went with the dudes to a dyno and the shop had a car with this setup....
In this car...... which is basically a death-land-barge.
Had this cider, which is definitely the best I've ever had. This also means I'll probably never find it again.
Came home and sold STU Z ver 2.0. Guna miss having a Z around, but it all worked out.
On with the actual car. Here is it's current state.
So I bought a good condition short-block from Cameron(vteckiller) that I'll using with my current head. The goal is to have this engine last until NASA/Greg figures out ST6/TT6, so HOPEFULLY no more than two seasons. Doing new valve-stem seals on the head since I knew they were leaking quite a bit. They were likely a large portion of my oil loss. The engine actually came back with good compression(wet/dry) and leak-down numbers, which was encouraging. Shim clearances were all within spec, with one exception on one #3 intake. I ordered Supermiata Qmax reroute, so I'll finally have a reroute! Qmax, clutch hok, and all seals/gaskets will be going on this week. Installing the reroute while the engine is pulled should make it easier. Also installing my prop valve for the brakes.... finally!
When I drained the trans fluid I noticed how uhhhh funky the magnetic plug is looking.....
The trans doesn't do anything out of the ordinary, besides it whining a bit more. I chalked that up to the AWR engine mounts since that's when the noise really became prevalent. Either way I should probably source a spare transmission soon
I'm planning to have everything buttoned back up in time for CMP on Nov 10-12. Hopefully my dad will be out there running the car in DE3/4 as well. There might even be some MKturbo shenanigans going on at CMP too!
Scheduled cage install with my local shop for January/February, depending on his schedule. I'm the most excited about getting into w2w with the car. It's a goal I've set for a long while and I think I'll enjoy it a lot.
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10-27-2017, 04:58 PM
#218
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Random update!
Uhhhhh....... wtf have I done?!
Junkyard head still looks like vomit, keep in mind this head has been on the car the past three seasons.
I used the same tools Gordon mentions here and sourced some Felpro valve stem seals. The Lisle 36050 is pretty damn handy and easier to use than I initially thought.
Taking a hammer to your head is quite.....nerve racking. I had to get a buddy of mine to do the first one cause I was skurt. I tried both the hammer and compressing "techniques" with the tool. I found it easiest to hammer it to get the keepers off and then compress(a bunch) to "clip" them back in. This is a given, but worth saying.... you need to do this on a sturdy bench. I attempted to press the first one in on a typical fold-out table, it wasn't happy about it. I ended up relocating to the floor with a bunch of cardboard, towels, and paper-towels under the head.
For reference, the keepers can only go into the retainer one way, the keep on the right in this pic is oriented correctly. I put the keepers into the retainer, since they can't fall out of the bottom of the retainer, and then press them in with the Lisle tool. It took quite a bit of force, but made an affirmative *CLICK* once they were in correctly.
Here's to hoping my valve stem swap was a success! (moar shiny orange parts!)
Going to button up my engine and install it this weekend. Finalize the rest of the car of next week, like the... clutch hok, prop valve, trans fluids, and hopefully get an additional hanger put on my mid-pipe. Currently, the header-to-midpipe flange gets hung up on my trailer :(
Anyways, CMP in two weeks!
Uhhhhh....... wtf have I done?!
Junkyard head still looks like vomit, keep in mind this head has been on the car the past three seasons.
I used the same tools Gordon mentions here and sourced some Felpro valve stem seals. The Lisle 36050 is pretty damn handy and easier to use than I initially thought.
Taking a hammer to your head is quite.....nerve racking. I had to get a buddy of mine to do the first one cause I was skurt. I tried both the hammer and compressing "techniques" with the tool. I found it easiest to hammer it to get the keepers off and then compress(a bunch) to "clip" them back in. This is a given, but worth saying.... you need to do this on a sturdy bench. I attempted to press the first one in on a typical fold-out table, it wasn't happy about it. I ended up relocating to the floor with a bunch of cardboard, towels, and paper-towels under the head.
For reference, the keepers can only go into the retainer one way, the keep on the right in this pic is oriented correctly. I put the keepers into the retainer, since they can't fall out of the bottom of the retainer, and then press them in with the Lisle tool. It took quite a bit of force, but made an affirmative *CLICK* once they were in correctly.
Here's to hoping my valve stem swap was a success! (moar shiny orange parts!)
Going to button up my engine and install it this weekend. Finalize the rest of the car of next week, like the... clutch hok, prop valve, trans fluids, and hopefully get an additional hanger put on my mid-pipe. Currently, the header-to-midpipe flange gets hung up on my trailer :(
Anyways, CMP in two weeks!
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