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Welp, dealing with some usual new engine issues..... sort of.
Relatively big oil leak when the car is sitting, so maybe a drain plug washer, likely the oil-pan though. The ******* timing cover is still leaking a bit, I've had that thing resealed twice now.
Got the car to the dyno/tuner. There's a local guy that has a LOT of k-series tuning experience. I actually haven't heard anything bad about him, which is rare nowadays. Delays happened for me, my t-stat housing cracked where I plugged it, had to swap it that morning. Get the car on the dyno and run into cooling issues, track a couple of leaks down, but can't keep it cool. Maybe we didn't get it bleed all the way. Got about ~15min of tuning on my car and a few other bits sorted on it. Tuner has a 35+ hour k-series tune he used as a base and the car certainly starts, idles, and runs much better than it did on the default base from Kpro.
Get the car home to trouble-shoot the coolant issues, front way in the air, magic Lisle funnel on it sealed. Find one weep on the back of the head, could be the hose going to the back or it could be the barb fitting on the housing. Either way I think that bit is introducing air into the system.
Potentially bigger issue though, while letting it bleed noticed the coolant got much darker and smelled really bad like rotten eggs(sulfur). I've got constant air-bubbles from it too, which could be the leak in the back. I've got a block tester now, going to check tomorrow to see if the head-gasket is blown or not. Fingers crossed it's not and I can just continue to chase oil/coolant leaks.
Block tester fluid stayed blue, so at least the HG is still good! Still chasing cooling issues and it seems to be coming from the back of the head and/or the hose going to the housing. The hose itself might be a bit too big and/or the barb fitting is leaking. I honestly can't remember if I put teflon tape on it or not.
So close, yet so far away. The ~10min drives I've taken it on has kept me motivated though. Haven't taken it past 1/2 throttle, but 1/2 throttle on the k24 is WAY faster than WOT with the BP The sensation of lurching forward soooo much faster always gets me to giggle. Same experience when I put a turbo on one of my old NAs like 10 years ago.
You have a chance to check the rear main yet? I saw your post on Facebook...
Yeah the oil leak is definitely the real main seal. No signs of leakage from any angle on the oil-pan, yay!
I've got a safe-to-drive tune on the car now, so I'm aiming for a track-day with Jzilla at AMP on Oct. 18th. Fingers crossed I can get these fluid issues sorted so I can make it!
Yeah none of that **** of going to AMP or CMP happened
I can't get this ******* thing to quit puking oil...... I pulled the engine and resealed the oil-pan and timing chain cover. I used Permatex ultra-black per Kmiata's recommendation and I was pretty thorough with it. I have the little tube squeezer and laid a fat bead all around the oil-pan, even did both sides of each bolt hole.
Did 2 and a half pulls on the dyno and it formed this oil puddle. Called it quits because of the potential fire hazard..... I was watching it on one pull and could see the oil drip down about every 3 seconds. So it's leaking under load but does not seem to leak while idling. This points to the rear main seal again...... going with an OEM rear main seal and will inspect the crank for a potential nick on it or something. Odd thing is, it leaked like this with the original OEM rear main seal as well. The oil-pan could have a pin-hole in it, but I would think it would leak while idling if that was the case.
It's difficult to stay motivated on this, same issue keeps popping up again and again. The rest of the swap and the car is there, so it's SO close. The 3 times I went WOT on a test drive was also pretty damn cool.
I didmanage to sort my cooling issues. Anyone reading this that is planning to do this swap, buy an OEM t-stat. Once I installed that, Lisle funnel on it, squeezed the hoses at the back a few times, turned the car off/on about 3 times, it was bleed properly! Test drive didn't budge over 180*, thought it was stuck or something..... went WOT and it bumped up to 182/184. So at least that's figured out. It did good on the dyno as well, didn't go over 190* with a big blower up front.
I am having problems with my dash working at all. The only light that will illuminate is the brights for the head-lights . I've been mulling over an AIM MXL2 for over a year now..... they have a nice little patch cable that integrates with K-pro so it would be super handy. I'd just need to source their oil PSI and oil temp sensors, then I'd have every basic read-out I'd need along with warning thresholds set. Part of me wonders about doing a Racepak instead, in case I ever end up with a Haltech.
Anyways, I'm not even going to plan on making events now. I'll just keep working on this until it stops leaking oil I guess.
Maybe take a straight edge to it or put it on a known flat surface (like a granite surface plate) and see how fuckered the oil pan is. If it's bad, see if David will give you a new one?
Got a random **** return, packaging was funny and it somehow survived. Still need to sell this thing.......
So answer to my OEM gauge cluster not working is COMPLETELY logical!
I've drooled over this setup for awhile now. MXL2 with has 8 inputs, all the normal AIM goodness, and easy install with KPro. I got a little plastic plate from Advanced Autosports and a fuel sender from Iron Canyon Motorsports.
The wiring on this thing is pretty trick.
I reinstalled some oem seals.....
Guna fiddle with the car this weekend, maybe test drive it to confirm leak?
Did you try to diagnose the cluster issues? Or just called it quits?
Well I put the flywheel back in after the latest round of seals. Let the car warm up and revved it past 7k several times. Turned it off, cooled down, did it again 2 other times. Thus far no leaks..... The test drive will be the main test though I suppose.
I confirmed power was getting to the cluster, which it was. I must have shorted out the cluster at some point..... I didn't treat that thing too well. It uhhhh got in the way a couple of times in moments of rage as I was snaked around the cage.
Throwing in the towel on the oil-leak, taking it up to Winning Formula tomorrow so they can fix it! I haven't really touched the engine in weeks, just started it up to put some anti-freeze in it, started second try and idled fine. I wish it didn't leak oil, lol.
In other news! I got a new CCP top and lexan window for the car. Got it painted black the same time I had my OEM top painted for Bloo.
Cat content. The weather stripping included with the CCP lexan window was about 3" too short. I installed it for now, but fortunately my brother is in the car window business. So I'm guna have him seal it for me with his usual urethane tools/method.
Overall not too bad to install the lexan into this top. If you don't rush it even a hack like me can get it on there. They also pre-cut the cover on the lexan so you can paint the inside edge black.
Fingers crossed WF figures out the problem, knocks it out with ease, and I never **** with the oil-leak again!
The leaking problem is resolved! Thankfully it was just my poor mechanic skills and not some crazy oil-pan or engine problem. I left out the input shaft seal while I was installing the hydraulic release bearing
I can't say good enough things about my experience at Winning Formula. They are my people <3
Besides the leaking problem, I wanted them to look over the car as a whole. Ya know, since they're actual professional racecar mechanics/builders They were extremely accomodating, kept me up to date on all the problems, gave me honest advice on what should be done and asked if I wanted other issues sorted. They even took care of a few bits knowing I would tell them "I didn't know that was a problem, yes please fix it." They're also extremely reasonably priced! I effectively saved money from a time/effort stand-point with them.
10/10 would 100% recommend anyone to take your racecar to The Winning Formula.
A few bits they did for me, which is a much better job than I would have done.
Door-cable that you can push on to get the door open. I was never a fan of the pull cable and of course reaching to the outside either.
Some clearancing for the 3" exhaust. One thing I did do myself(at the advice of WF months ago) is upgrade the exhaust fasteners to M12 SS over the M10 that comes with it.
Made some room for the down-pipe, they also took off the bracket that is on the down-pipe. Apparently those have been known to break off.
They also caught that one bolt on the engine mount was too long, it was contacting the block and wouldn't seat all the way. Which could also explain why my oil pan was pushed so much to one side. They shortened it and readjusted my engine to have a lot more clearance too.
Got it back home and finally decided to install the AiM MXL2. It's pretty dang sweet.....almost too fancy for my car....... ok it's definitely too fancy for my car I've got to find a source for my 5mm oil temp sensor. The 1/8 NPT oil pressure sensor I got does not fit in the OEM VTEC oil pressure sensor(which isn't being used). They're the same thread pitch, but a different taper I guess.
Got the car back last Friday 2/26/21 and got it to the dyno yesterday 3/3/21! Third trip to the dyno and it was a successful one!
I don't think we got that last ~206 pull recorded because I don't have the wp8 file for it. Either that or my software on my PC is bit off, but the rest of the runs match up.... I'm not too concerned about the max power numbers.
It dropped about a dozen or more oil droplets, which is manageable at this point. I'm 99% certain its from the leaky two-piece timing cover, which will be getting replaced by the new single cast piece soon enough. Also, on the last pull it sprayed some coolant at the back of the head, you can see it in the video lol. Likely something on the coolant housing at the back, maybe one of the sensors or an o-ring adjusting after proper heat-cycles.
We did roughly get the numbers I was aiming for.
So max power is ~205rwhp/~162tq and the rest of the power/class run-down is......
ST5/TT5 - 173rwhp max 152tq ~168avg @ 2560lbs (+0.7 a-arm, +0.2 brakes, R7s, airdam, wing)
GLTC - 188rwhp 154tq @ 2420lbs (R7s, wing, no 3% flat modifier required)
ST4/TT4 - 205rwhp max 162tq ~198avg @ 2300lbs
I, unfortunately, do not know exactly how much my car weighs right now. So my next big project is going to be ballast! I'm thinking I'll have to get creative to hit that 2560lbs mark
I've actually planned a track event too! March 21 at AMP with Jzilla. Fingers and toes crossed!
Before this install I was dumb and filled it up, but not all the way up the neck. Then did one lap around the block so it's roughly 11 gallons. Live view on the AiM said 555mV, but the car was not running and there are multiple statements saying this unit works best while running. I just need to drive it and test it really.
Eventually, I'll need to run the tank empty, add 0.5gal, record values, repeat until full and then make a sheet/sensor on AiM for it to read the mV. When I do this I'll share the spread-sheet on here, so at least there's some data on an NB fuel tank. The way I understand it, the graph won't be linear since the tank has different contours in it.
I've registered for AMP with jZilla on 3/21/21! I might actually end up on track!!!!!!
I also started installing an oil filter sandwich plate, running 2x 1/8npt AiM sensors off it, one for oil psi and one for oil temp. When I took my filter off the "oil filter holder"(90015-PH1-013) stayed with the filter instead of on the engine. Fairly certain my hack-*** will be annihilating the threads on this thing to get it off, so I just put it back on and ordered 4x adapters
In the mean-time, here's a video of my buddy driving it down the road. No lights on the dash means he didn't go over 6500 rpm
The Winning Formula seems like a top tier shop. Their cars that campaign in GLTC, especially the Cayman seem super well sorted. Hopefully you iron out all your wrinkles and get on track!
I had issues on my Racepak logger dash with fuel. I did it crude - empty value, full value, done. That (for reasons I don't now fully recall) proved problematic, the reading was insufficiently damped being part of it and I lacked confidence in the accuracy. So I just hit the quick and easy button and put a programmable gauge it it and focussed on other things (of which there were many at that time). I did look at the ICM module, but the freight they wanted to charge was prohibitive and I wasn't prepared to put that money into something which might or might not have worked.
Installed and got the oil pressure sensor configured. I ordered a oil temp sensor, but in a 5mm instead of a 1/8npt and I have no idea why....... swapping it for the 1/8npt this weekend at AMP. I'll install it at the track, that way I'll be logging oil temp and psi.
Installed a simple oil sandwich plate, it had 3x 1/8 NPT fittings.
Routed the wiring for oil temp and oil psi along side the other wiring that goes to the front of the engine.
Weighed the car since my buddy has some scales I have easy access to. I didn't corner balance it yet though. It's heavier than I thought it would be!
This is with a full tank, 2193lbs
So before the swap I had the config of:
~2100lbs dry
BP, 5spd, light exhaust, same aero bits, 1.8 brakes, OEM hardtop, all else the same
The swap and recent changes are:
~2120lbs dry
k24z3 swap parts, 6spd, Kmiata exhaust, same aero bits, ST42 front, sport rear rotors, CCP fiberglass top w/ lexan, all else the same
Although the K24 is lighter than the BP, the adapter plate, flywheel, extra fluid, and other swap parts start to add up! This weight is surprising and actually makes my target weights easier to hit.
Video for proof that it went around the track too! This was the longest session I did.
IATs are too hot, I've got to do a new intake design. I already planned to as this intake was temporary and got put on the back-burner. Oil temp is ok for this event, but it will get HOT at Road Atlanta in the draft. Oil cooler is on the shortlist as well, along with an OSG..... my poor old torsen is just too worn out. I did that cleaning method I have on this thread years ago and I might try it again if I can't get the OSG installed before GLTC next month at NCM. Skip to ~12:00 on my video above to see me get on throttle at apex like I normally would...... one wheel spin of fury!!!
I have mix-matched prototype pieces of sturdy bois. So I was missing the set-bolt holes..... so my splitter decided to come-off half-way on my 2nd lap ever. Talk about annoying....... Jhony was there so I was able to cry enough that I'll be getting new production pieces soon . I drilled the holes, put bolts in, and all was well with the front aero again.
Still fighting oil leak at the two-piece timing cover. It's leaking and accumulating on the passenger side dripping down. It's manageable, but I'll be ordering the one-piece cast timing cover soon. My oil filter sandwich plate could potentially be part of this leak too. I didn't loctite the adapters so it was actually spinning. On the second session, it spun and pushed my AIM's oil psi sensor to the block, killing the reading. When it did this on track my low oil psi alarm went off on the AIM and thought "well ****, it's shot I guess". The engine was running fine and I was able to get back to pits without issue, then checked the reading on live data and it was stuck at -18.5psi while running, then I found the sensor wedged against the block. Tightened the plate and filter back and the reading was fine again, double-checked the oil psi and all was well.
I need to get a proper radiator fan, my OEM wiring isn't working so I'll have to address that first. The CLT was just fine on track, but it'd creep up once I got back to the paddock, nothing major, crept just past 215*, but I think it'd help keep things in check for longer.
Oil leak after the first two super-short sessions:
Oil leak after the third session:
I wiped it off and did the 4th session, it was similar and maybe a little less than the first two. I also put oil into the engine after the 2nd session.
These R7s were from 2017 and didn't have that much grip, easy to lock up, so I killt em dead.
So I put the 225s and 9.5s I got from Tarmac88 but....... they didn't fit with just my rolled fenders! They look pretty damn cool though.
Hard roll and pulling coming soon!
I didn't even check shock settings, tire psi, tire temp, or any of the simple things. I was just so pleased to be back at the racetrack that it didn't even matter. My amazing girl-friend came with me too, her first track event ever and she loved it! So that was an awesome plus.
I've already signed up for GLTC at NCM next month, April 16-18. Here's hoping I can get a few more bits sorted out to be more competitive.
I'll leave you with another video. The red NC with the **** is a 2.5 NC . The Civic Type R was being driven by Patrick Daughtery who is a great driver and makes sense why it was getting it.
10-03-2020, 11:22 PM
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The sensation of lurching forward soooo much faster always gets me to giggle. Same experience when I put a turbo on one of my old NAs like 10 years ago.
They were extremely accomodating, kept me up to date on all the problems, gave me honest advice on what should be done and asked if I wanted other issues sorted. They even took care of a few bits knowing I would tell them "I didn't know that was a problem, yes please fix it." They're also extremely reasonably priced! I effectively saved money from a time/effort stand-point with them.
. The Civic Type R was being driven by Patrick Daughtery who is a great driver and makes sense why it was getting it.
