ITT we discuss why not to turbo your daily bent rod
07-25-2014, 11:31 PM
#61
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I decided to pick up surface pro 2 when i found one for a price I couldn't pass up on. It will be my primary tuning device now. I'm interested to see how it works out.
Sorry for shitty cell picture, camera isn't handy at the moment.
Sorry for shitty cell picture, camera isn't handy at the moment.
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07-29-2014, 09:41 AM
#62
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Force of habit. lol.
In more related update news, I test fit the turbo on a 99 motor (and by me, I mean my roommate when he pulled one from the junk yard.) As best he could tell, A/C and P/S should not be an issue with this bottom mount manifold. I will however have to re-route the water pump inlet. At the moment, I'm planning on just flipping and modifying it like Soviet, Leafy, and many others have done. I'm fabricating all the other parts in the coolant re-route, so I'd like to try to avoid buying the nice premade BEGi part.
I also planned on doing the clutch /after/ everything else was done, but will likely do it before so I can properly break in the clutch before the car is turboed and I want to enjoy it. I've given up trying to find a decent Kevlar clutch.
List of things still to purchase/acquire, as typing it all out will also help me remember what all I need to buy, lol.
- Turbo rebuild kit
- Turbo compressor inlet/outlet bolt on pieces
- Turbo fittings (oil and water)
- Fittings to T-off oil pressure sender for feed
- Real oil pressure sender
- Water lines
- Oil pan -10 AN fitting for return
- Clutch
- IAT sensor, bung, and pigtail
- VC Breather or catch can
- Greddy O-ring for BOV
- Flange for greddy BOV
- Round bar aluminum to machine spacer and block off plate for coolant reroute
- Coolant hose for after the re-route (Autozone part XL 1215)
Not needed specifically for turbo, but needed ASAP:
- Trans/Diff/Brake Fluids
- Timing Belt
Need to be purchased, but not ASAP:
- GM EBC, and pigtail (for use only after wastegate pressure is tuned)
- Oil cooler and lines, possibly using truck trans cooler?
- Thermostat for oil cooler
- Probably a radiator...
Gotta run. Didn't proof read ^
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08-18-2014, 01:34 PM
#64
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Unfortunately not. I went to the beach for 11 days, and have spent the past week moving out of my current house in Columbia and into my new one. Have honestly just been making little changes to keep her running safely. I must admit, I'm still perplexed with my tuning issues though. One day the AFRs are fine, the next they are 0.7 points higher and I'm at like 13.3 at WOT. ego, mat correct, etc. is all disabled as I've been tuning, and I haven't cut it back on yet.
Also, what is the "safe' AFR for naturally aspirated zones? I know this is a broad question with LOTS of variables, but I'm only looking for a generic answer. I've been going under the assumption 13.5 would be BAD, with very little reasoning to back that up, and have been trying to keep things close to 12.5 at WOT.
I'll include my current tune below, but it ain't perty. I haven't smoothed my tables in a while....
Current Tune (Prone to updates if accessed at a later date)
Also, what is the "safe' AFR for naturally aspirated zones? I know this is a broad question with LOTS of variables, but I'm only looking for a generic answer. I've been going under the assumption 13.5 would be BAD, with very little reasoning to back that up, and have been trying to keep things close to 12.5 at WOT.
I'll include my current tune below, but it ain't perty. I haven't smoothed my tables in a while....
Current Tune (Prone to updates if accessed at a later date)
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08-31-2014, 06:00 PM
#65
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Disassembled the turbo. Left it in a parts washer (which I had worried may have been a bad idea), but it looks exactly as it did when it went in really. So, no harm done, but no gain either.
It looks like the wheel came into contact with the housing at one point, but nothing too severe. Pictures attached, planning to clean it further, just haven't decided on a plan of attack yet.
Really wish this thing had soda in it instead of (albeit a very fine grade) glass. This whole ordeal would be so much easier.
It looks like the wheel came into contact with the housing at one point, but nothing too severe. Pictures attached, planning to clean it further, just haven't decided on a plan of attack yet.
Really wish this thing had soda in it instead of (albeit a very fine grade) glass. This whole ordeal would be so much easier.
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09-02-2014, 03:38 PM
#66
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So as I wait for the rest of the build to come together, I figured I'd do a log or two for VirtualDyno to have a baseline. Only road I could find (well, felt like driving to) wasn't exactly flat, so I did a pull each direction. On the bright[butnotreally] side, the pulls made it blatantly obvious my tune still needs work if I'm hitting 13:0 in third.
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09-02-2014, 04:19 PM
#67
Lol, I like the "uphill vs downhill" virtual dyno. That some impressive hp gains! I did a "headlights up vs headlights down" pull a while back and picked up like 8hp.
I seem to remember 13.0:1 being the universal WOT N/A target AFR, if there is such a thing. I think a lot of people go a little richer, into the high 12's, as a safety buffer though.
I seem to remember 13.0:1 being the universal WOT N/A target AFR, if there is such a thing. I think a lot of people go a little richer, into the high 12's, as a safety buffer though.
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09-25-2014, 12:55 AM
#69
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I've been meaning to ask you what goals you had for that.
What version change did you make?
Based on Emilio's info that may be overkill. IIRC, he is saying the head gasket can take 245-250*F, which makes me think that is "too good". To quote him, "Head gasket lets go around 255*". Based on that, I would think the goal would be full peg at 245*. Curly says he wouldn't run if over 230*.
To me that high on the gauge should be saying, "shut me down!"
What are your thoughts?
What version change did you make?
Based on Emilio's info that may be overkill. IIRC, he is saying the head gasket can take 245-250*F, which makes me think that is "too good". To quote him, "Head gasket lets go around 255*". Based on that, I would think the goal would be full peg at 245*. Curly says he wouldn't run if over 230*.
To me that high on the gauge should be saying, "shut me down!"
What are your thoughts?
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09-25-2014, 06:52 PM
#70
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I've been meaning to ask you what goals you had for that.
What version change did you make?
Based on Emilio's info that may be overkill. IIRC, he is saying the head gasket can take 245-250*F, which makes me think that is "too good". To quote him, "Head gasket lets go around 255*". Based on that, I would think the goal would be full peg at 245*. Curly says he wouldn't run if over 230*.
To me that high on the gauge should be saying, "shut me down!"
What are your thoughts?
What version change did you make?
Based on Emilio's info that may be overkill. IIRC, he is saying the head gasket can take 245-250*F, which makes me think that is "too good". To quote him, "Head gasket lets go around 255*". Based on that, I would think the goal would be full peg at 245*. Curly says he wouldn't run if over 230*.
To me that high on the gauge should be saying, "shut me down!"
What are your thoughts?
Sidenote:
Bought some magical unicorn jizz. Also, VEAL. Lots, and lots, of VEAL.
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09-25-2014, 08:22 PM
#71
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Here is a complex method, but, based on the published testing, seems to do exactly what it should:
miataforumz.com/how-40/how-linear-water-temp-gauge
But, that is miataforumz, so perhaps that is the one to which you refer.
Re: some past discussions about quick throttle punch and short lean. If the car does not "feel" bad, it seems the consensus to not worry about it. I have my AFR safety to not cut fuel unless the warning lasts for 0.4 seconds. I do try to actually have the enunciator only flicker. As things are now, even though with fast throttle excursions the AFR's do not track perfectly, throttle response still feels instantaneous.
I presume from your mention of lots of VEAL that things are beginning to smooth out?
miataforumz.com/how-40/how-linear-water-temp-gauge
But, that is miataforumz, so perhaps that is the one to which you refer.
Re: some past discussions about quick throttle punch and short lean. If the car does not "feel" bad, it seems the consensus to not worry about it. I have my AFR safety to not cut fuel unless the warning lasts for 0.4 seconds. I do try to actually have the enunciator only flicker. As things are now, even though with fast throttle excursions the AFR's do not track perfectly, throttle response still feels instantaneous.
I presume from your mention of lots of VEAL that things are beginning to smooth out?
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09-25-2014, 08:55 PM
#72
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Here is a complex method, but, based on the published testing, seems to do exactly what it should:
miataforumz.com/how-40/how-linear-water-temp-gauge
But, that is miataforumz, so perhaps that is the one to which you refer.
Re: some past discussions about quick throttle punch and short lean. If the car does not "feel" bad, it seems the consensus to not worry about it. I have my AFR safety to not cut fuel unless the warning lasts for 0.4 seconds. I do try to actually have the enunciator only flicker. As things are now, even though with fast throttle excursions the AFR's do not track perfectly, throttle response still feels instantaneous.
I presume from your mention of lots of VEAL that things are beginning to smooth out?
miataforumz.com/how-40/how-linear-water-temp-gauge
But, that is miataforumz, so perhaps that is the one to which you refer.
Re: some past discussions about quick throttle punch and short lean. If the car does not "feel" bad, it seems the consensus to not worry about it. I have my AFR safety to not cut fuel unless the warning lasts for 0.4 seconds. I do try to actually have the enunciator only flicker. As things are now, even though with fast throttle excursions the AFR's do not track perfectly, throttle response still feels instantaneous.
I presume from your mention of lots of VEAL that things are beginning to smooth out?
Tune runs great for 2-4 days, then all of a sudden everything is lean again and the world hates me. Haven't yet figured this out. Just keep running VEAL to fix it again. Maybe once school settles down I'll have more time to try and diagnose it.
EDIT: Lean being something above 13.8. Car drove fine for three days, the next day it was consistently spiking to 14.7:1. (WOT)
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11-19-2014, 06:15 PM
#76
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So, I had all the pictures taken for a sale ad on my tubular manifold. Had pretty much decided to sell it to try and recoop the vast amount of money I've gone over budget. But I think I'm going to keep it. I'd really like to use it one day when I have more time to make it fit a little better, but while the car is my daily I don't feel like trying to mess with it.
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11-24-2014, 09:36 AM
#78
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And update, schuyler is now scared to cut his car all up so I am buying the manifold. I seem to have less problems with the idea of cutting my car up than most...
he will be running a mkturbo setup, and I have no idea how im going to make this fit
he will be running a mkturbo setup, and I have no idea how im going to make this fit
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12-15-2014, 10:35 PM
#79
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Well ladies and gents, it's time...
Friday at midnight, I got to Easley, we threw the car in the air and took off the panels/hood.
Saturday:
The EGR pipe was ridiculously tight, and my knuckles are gorgeous. So, FaeFae Sawzall.
This is super handy by the way..
It's out!
For 75k and probably just as many launches, the clutch looked fine.
Sunday:
Fresh timing belt, seals, pulleys, waterpump
So, I was not aware of the baffle in the oil pan.... Bent the pick up tube a little, but nothing that couldn't be quickly fixed. Things a PITA to get off....
hurr hurr
Pizza, and enough beer we stopped there for the night.
Monday:
Added oil temp sensor above the drain bolt
Cleaned the trans and replaced the bearings
Now to go out tomorrow and buy a 37/64 bit. Didn't have anything close enough to work.
Friday at midnight, I got to Easley, we threw the car in the air and took off the panels/hood.
Saturday:
The EGR pipe was ridiculously tight, and my knuckles are gorgeous. So, FaeFae Sawzall.
This is super handy by the way..
It's out!
For 75k and probably just as many launches, the clutch looked fine.
Sunday:
Fresh timing belt, seals, pulleys, waterpump
So, I was not aware of the baffle in the oil pan.... Bent the pick up tube a little, but nothing that couldn't be quickly fixed. Things a PITA to get off....
hurr hurr
Pizza, and enough beer we stopped there for the night.
Monday:
Added oil temp sensor above the drain bolt
Cleaned the trans and replaced the bearings
Now to go out tomorrow and buy a 37/64 bit. Didn't have anything close enough to work.
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12-17-2014, 02:28 PM
#80
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New clutch is on
Oil return intalled, and interior picture of the temp sensor from the last post.
T-ed off the oil pressure sender for the turbo's oil feed. The end is open atm because I ordered the VDO 360-009 pressure sender with warning light, so now I will have a working oil pressure gauge.
So now, the stripped stud hole business.... I'm using a keen-sert, which requires an M14-1.5 tapped hole.... 12.5mm drill bit. Big ******* hole. Didn't quite finish this, so more tonight hopefully.
Not quite finished drilling, but you can see the difference between here between the original diameter.
My poor, expensive, 99 head :(
Oil return intalled, and interior picture of the temp sensor from the last post.
T-ed off the oil pressure sender for the turbo's oil feed. The end is open atm because I ordered the VDO 360-009 pressure sender with warning light, so now I will have a working oil pressure gauge.
So now, the stripped stud hole business.... I'm using a keen-sert, which requires an M14-1.5 tapped hole.... 12.5mm drill bit. Big ******* hole. Didn't quite finish this, so more tonight hopefully.
Not quite finished drilling, but you can see the difference between here between the original diameter.
My poor, expensive, 99 head :(
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