I did a pull in fourth, but I guess it didn't save. Here is the pull in third. AFRs are far from stable, but should be safe. When lean, they are no more than 0.3 from target. Still in the very early stages of tuning. Tune Attached, as well as the log.

 

Found the fourth gear pull.
Traffic was bad though, so I had to stop at 5500 and started at like 2200

 

Det Cans. Also, pollen sucks.

 

Newest Virtual Dynos, 4th gear, up and down the same road.

Once this is dialed in, I'll add a boost controller. Judging by what I think I've deterined to be safe, I have about 27ft-lb left to go (225ft-lb safe zone). Probably going to dial up boost more after it drops off there though to try and keep the torque curve flatter. Thoughts/Suggestions/Opinions? I know the AFRs still need work. Partially did the pulls to have something to tune off of.

 

Whats news on your turbo? I noticed you put up a WTB thread for a T25... you haz me worried haha I recently just rebuilt a t25 with some kinugawa parts. any how, the plots look good i hope you figure everything out

 

Yeahhhh she dead. I'm 99% it was me being a noobs fault though. I ordered this restrictor kit that came with jets, and googling around on MT I saw a few posts of people that were runninng 0.035" restrictors on a T25. My car had been shooting a TON of oil past the seals in the T25, so I was like fudgeit. Let's try the smallest one, 0.030". Turbine blade started hitting the housing very shortly after that. Gpopshop said that would easily starve a journal bearing turbo of oil to the point of causing damage in a matter of a few seconds. It wasn't the end of the world, since the turbo had been smoking so much I assumed it was on borrowed time anyway. This turbo I borrowed from Lars for the time being. Odds are I'll just throw some fat stacks his way so I don't have to take it off again.

(Oh, and I'm running 0.060" now. lol.)

 

Follow up on the dead turbo:

If you love fingers on a chalk board, you'll love this:

 

Can using the shitty O'Reilly 323 replacement pcv fail to seal badly enough to pop my dipstick out?

 

it could hapen, to be sure just diconnect and cap the hose fitting on the im and see if it hapens again, if it does a restrictive vent or bad rings are the problem ...

 

The problem is it happens so sporadically it's hard to just go out and try.
I will say this. I took the hose, attached to the pcv, off the car and filled it with water. I can blow towards where the valve cover would be, and can empty the water I'd put in the hose. I could see it very easily causing the crank case pressurization.

Question #2: can crank case pressure cause oil to be forced around the rear main seal? The idea had crossed my mind, and two others have since brought it up, so I thought it's worth mentioning. It's not a TON of oil, but it's certainly some. Drops ~half the dipstick "safe" area every 2-300mi.

 

A pcv valve is cheap so just change it and see if things get better, i find it difficult to belive that a leaking pcv valve would let that much air trough but i could be wrong on this.
Crancase pressure will blow out oil seals, i would buy a cheap 0-5 psi gauge (McMaster carr has them) and connect it with a hose to the dip stick tube, tape the gauge in the dash somewere to see crankcase pressure as you drive, if it spikes under boost you can pinch the pcv hose with some vicegrip pliers and see if it changes, then you will know where the presure is coming from.

 

I took 3 more of these and went significantly faster and started in first, but the gopro apparently was in picture mode. So, I have pictures of me idling.

But, here is the one video I did get. This is with the 7psi wastegate holding things around 9-10psi.

 

I have a lot to learn about driving the car now that it's turboed, but enjoy the noises.

 

love the sounds for sure

 

Nice! We need to plan a Columbia turbo miata meet some time this summer.

 

I'd be down!

 

As long as I know far enough in advance I can try to make time on my calendar and show up.

 

I think that's a good idea as well.

Schuyler, is that compressor surge I hear in your video? Sounds way different from my BOV.

 

Mayyyyyybe...

No yeah I have a ton of compressor surge as the result of my BOV spring being too tight. I haven't worried a ton about it because, as far as I'm aware, it's not the type of compressor surge that really leads to damage (i.e. at WOT). I'm sure it is still bad for the bearings though. I added 3 washers (maximum you can add before there is no longer a lip for them and the spring to rest in) to the lighter spring I have, and it refuses to close at idle. The spring in there now is obviously too tight. These chinese springs are color coded, so I want to calculate what they are so I can figure out what to order. Just need to find something heavy enough to compress the spring a decent amount. And a scale to measure it with.

 

got a pair of calipers? you can approximate the values with a calulator.

Spring Calculator