Random picture of the flywheel taken from the car after 75k miles



So the tap I had didn't quite make it far enough into the exhaust manifold hole, and I needed a bottoming tap. Or an angle grinder.







Picture of how my feed lines up with the motor mount



Is...



Is it...



Is it in yet...?

 

I've forgotten to update. Oops.

Intercooler mounted (red tow hooks for testing purposes)





NO I NEED MORE BOOST



New power steering cooler



Cold side (verticle coupler will be welded, BOV flange goes on the vertical)





Hot side (all couplers not on turbo/intercooler are being welded)

 

The IWG is mounted to the back of the turbine housing, so i will just retap new holes for the clocked position.

Issues still to figure out:

Lower rad hose
P/S Reservoir location
Water line possibly hitting manifold on left side

 

Yes! to progress.

 

get a fm silicone lower rad hose. it is nice and not too spendy

 

Doing some research and trying to find a view different angles of the hose installed. Next time I go work on the car, I will hopefully compare where that hose should go to where I can allow it to go. Fingers crossed. $40 to alleviate hours of trying to make something else work would be nice.

Plan is to go over Friday and Saturday and try to button the car up. Have EVERYTHING done (brakes, fluids, interior shenanigans, etc.) so when my exhaust gets here, I come back and just bolt it up and start tuning. Until it doesn't start. Or explodes. Or burns down the garage. Or slips my new $400 clutch.

 

Rawr

 

Update. Two weeks from today, on March 13th (Friday the 13th. Awesome.), the goal is to have my car on the road, driving, done, tuned, doing two step burnouts in walmart parking lots with highschool street racers.

Intercooler pipes and coolant spacer were welded thanks to a friends dad. Here are the potato pics he sent me.

 

Why does your friend feel the need to take all the pictures as if they were dick pics??

 

Nice to see your grammar is on par with your photography.

 

Updates.

Transmission tunnel lined with Reflectix.



Painted manifold with DEI High Temperature Black Silicone Paint.



Test fit



Making room for the heater core hose.



MKTurbo exhaust









Intercooler Piping installed

(Driver's Side)





(Passenger Side)





Also picked up a 36 tooth crank trigger wheel. OEM from a protege. Like $14.






Fired up the car. I tried to follow the example you all set and not run exhaust gaskets. T2 flange at the manifold leaks and 5-bolt -> vband adapter leaks at the vband. Both prettty bad. I didn't take them to the machine shop. So I've ordered gaskets. I'm running gaskets. You all can suck it.

I couldn't find these locally, so the car won't be running this weekend. Hopefully next weekend when the gaskets get here I can fire up the car and get to tuning.

 

Psh. I could have taken that photo at 80 mph while narrowly missing trees (or full-on hitting them). 46 mph is child's play.

 

As long as you run stamped-steel style gaskets, you will be fine and they will seal. I agree, unless you have those flanges machined to a ridiculous level of flatness, you will always need a gasket. I think no one recommends using a gasket because every nOob thinks a gasket is that shitty metalized/layered crap that's all over eBay.

Gaskets : atpturbo.com

That page should have what you need.

 

So I went with a Chinese outlet to 2.5" v-band adapter for the t2 setups. It was horribly warped on the side that bolts to the turbo. The v-band clamp also apparently does not clamp down all the way. I am sending Schuyler out a different clamp to try there. I need to figure out where I can get the oval to 2.5" transition to just make those pieces in house.

 

In my defense, it was originally a snapchat. lol

Yep. Plan is to give that and the gasket a shot when I get back next weekend.

 

Word of caution, I tested the reflectix with a heat gun to see how it might hold up to being that close to the exhaust pipe. It melts very fast, like REALLY fast. Use caution! Don't want a fire right there! I personally would test it yourself with a heat gun before I did that.

 

Also for leaking flanges, I use a block of lexan and a piece of sand paper, you can surface them very flat this way. Then put a very light coat of grease on each surface and bolt together. When it gets hot, the grease turns to carbon to seal it up. No gasket, will never leak. This has worked every time I've done it, which is only a few times. If you have anything that is flat, and a piece of rough sand paper, you can do this now for free and never have a gasket leak. I ran 28 PSI on my GT3271 for 2 years with no gasket, never leaked! And mine had a T3 flange and a 6 bolt flange for the downpipe.

 

Car runs, and is a blast.

Exhaust leaks fixed with gaskets+copper spray, aside from one small pinhole I need to weld up.

Turbo leaks some oil, though it seems to be all exhaust side. Definite smell of oil when you stop the car, and a small puff of smoke when you change gears and start accelerating again (even if not in boost). Current mindset is to let it ride. It's been freshly rebuilt, 0mi on the turbo until we ran it.

The (brand new) 7psi wastegate seems to creep to 10 and hold 9 in first, and creep to 9 and hold at 8 in all other gears. Possibly needs a better vacuum source? Porting?

Tune is good, checked with det cans (by someone who actually knows what knock would sound like). Need to dial in some AFRs, but it's safe. Keeping it easy between gears in pulls, but the car is a blast. Triple digits are much more easily achievable.

Pics to come soon. There may or may not be some video of it shooting fire.

 

Need logs of spool. And sorry that my setup is to efficient and you get boost creep.

 

I'll get one today when I can park back at my house and everyone on main Street doesn't have to smell it. Every time I stop I smell burning oil like a boat. lol. :(