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Old 05-26-2015, 01:40 PM   #141
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Yep, there is some latency, but I have tested it before and the timer is stopping on time, the GPS data is just delayed. So your times are correct.
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:02 PM   #142
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Thats doing pretty good on factory calipers/rotors. Did you get any fade? Take some pictures of the pads after your removed them. Last time I ran factory sized rotors I warped the pads and had pretty bad taper too. Sounds like you could benefit from a set of Mini 11" rotors and Wilwood calipers that fit under those stock wheels. If you are planning on getting new wheels just do the big boy 11.75" setup.

It will be interesting to see your logs, sounds like your MATs stayed pretty stable. I would expect similar performance out of my FAB9/Vibrant intercooler than the CX racing intercooler you are using.

Is your radiator sealed?

How did the R-comps work out? Any spins?

Last edited by Rallas; 05-27-2015 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 03:40 PM   #143
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Quote:
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Thats doing pretty good on factory calipers/rotors. Did you get any fade? Take some pictures of the pads after your removed them. Last time I ran factory sized rotors I warped the pads and had pretty bad taper too. Sounds like you could benefit from a set of Mini 11" rotors and Wilwood calipers that fit under those stock wheels. If you are planning on getting new wheels just do the big boy 11.75" setup.

It will be interesting to see your logs, sounds like your MATs stayed pretty stable. I would expect similar performance out of my FAB9/Vibrant intercooler than the CX racing intercooler you are using.

Is your radiator sealed?

How did the R-comps work out? Any spins?
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There is the log. I'll post pictures of the pads when I get around to swapping them back lol.

Wilwood calipers just aren't in the budget right now unfortunately. These had plenty of stopping power, so I'm thinking maybe some ducting or something to cool them down.

I definitely could have got on the brakes later going in to 1 and 7, and taken more speed through some of the corners. As a result though, no, i did not spin. Tires seemed to have a ton of grip.

I ran a 2:03.26* Not a three minute lap as I said before. lol.

I can upload more sessions if you want them.
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:30 PM   #144
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I got tired of trying to get everything to sync perfectly. Here is the video. The lap timer at the top doesn't seem to match the lap timer you can see on my phone or the map, but I'm told it is the timer that should be correct. It doesn't stop at the finish line as it should. So. I'll try and learn RaceRender a little better before doing future videos.

EDIT: Also, the camera angle sucks. I know.


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Old 05-29-2015, 08:54 AM   #145
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CMP is notoriously hard on brakes...your "casualties" seem normal considering the car, brake setup, turbo, etc etc.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:01 AM   #146
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220+ is shut down time. 230 should be lights flashing: danger Will Robinson! Danger!

You have some fairly serious cooling issues.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:39 AM   #147
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220+ is shut down time. 230 should be lights flashing: danger Will Robinson! Danger!

You have some fairly serious cooling issues.
Interesting. I had asked around at the track and the consensus was 230 was a good point to let off, and that 240 is where the chance of the HG going is fairly strong. Good to know I might need to take it a little easier next time, though as you can see, doing so would mean 50-60% of each session would have been cool down laps.

I realized I forgot to put the undertray back on at the track, when I looked straight down and saw the grass through the engine bay. So I think putting that back on should help quite a bit. Don't know how we forgot it when buttoning the car back up. I also have everything sitting in a box for the coolant reroute, which should help things too. Lastly, I will probably be buying gauges before doing another track day. Oil temp and coolant temp at the minimum. The warning light worked pretty well and was easy to see, but it was still nothing like actually knowing the values.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:28 AM   #148
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Under tray will help a little, but not as much as an air guide, the stock plastic ducting in front of the radiator. Is that in place? Ditching AC will help a huge amount as well. So will a reroute. Those two, along with a hood extractor, will help a huge(er) amount.

With good ducting, reroute, no AC, and hood extractor, a few turbo Miatas running in the NW (on hotter days), stay at 200, if not below. We also use 180* thermostats, I want that baby wide open well before 195*.
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:08 PM   #149
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Quote:
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Under tray will help a little, but not as much as an air guide, the stock plastic ducting in front of the radiator. Is that in place? Ditching AC will help a huge amount as well. So will a reroute. Those two, along with a hood extractor, will help a huge(er) amount.

With good ducting, reroute, no AC, and hood extractor, a few turbo Miatas running in the NW (on hotter days), stay at 200, if not below. We also use 180* thermostats, I want that baby wide open well before 195*.
a/c is pretty non negotiable at this point. I keep the top up on my way to work so my hair isn't all ratchet, so I find myself using a/c almost daily.

I do have a spare hood I could put extractor vents on for track days. Whole reason I got it actually.

I am 90% sure I replaced the thermostat with a 180 one while I had the motor out.

The plastic piece did not fit with the intercooler, so no, it's not there. I was going to have to cut before the vertical braces and leave like a 1" sliver. I could possibly fab something in its place though.
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:18 PM   #150
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<p>I need CSTG ducting work. I destroyed my stock ducting stuff on my off roading trip. I have recreated the bottom piece with ABS but I need to get the sides all sealed up.</p>
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:13 PM   #151
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Compression is down more than I'd like in the 11 months between checks.....

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Old 06-11-2015, 08:46 AM   #152
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Did you do both tests with the same configuration? Fresh battery, throttle wide open, all plugs removed, using same gauge?
Was the 2014 readings before the turbo? 10% drop does seem strange but not alarming, it is still pretty even accross all 4 cylinders.

If you are worried about it you can always do a leakdown test.
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:54 AM   #153
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Only difference is this time it was a fresh battery, and last time it was hooked to a battery charger on "run" with a older battery.

Yes, pre-turbo. Both tests done in flood clear with all plug removed, using the same gauge.
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:42 PM   #154
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I wouldn't be too worried about it since all cyclinders are fearly even. Check it in a month or two to see if it continues to degrade.

Were both tests done with the engine warm?
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:27 PM   #155
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Or you could do a leak-down test if you're properly worried...
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Old 06-13-2015, 03:56 PM   #156
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I think I'll just keep an eye on it and if it continues to get worse I'll worry more. Maybe the rings aren't fond of 2-stepping and flatshift

Most recent VD. (Very) slight downhill, so I'm saying maybe 10hp less than that at most. Also assuming the dip was a bump in the road. Need to get on fixing this wastegate issue.

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Old 06-19-2015, 02:18 PM   #157
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Something is leaking. I don't know what. But I was greeted this morning by .25" of standing water in my driver's foot well. Will investigate this evening.
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Old 06-19-2015, 02:29 PM   #158
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Something is leaking. I don't know what. But I was greeted this morning by .25" of standing water in my driver's foot well. Will investigate this evening.
Under the carpet in the foot well is a plug. You should be able to pop it up from under the car to drain all the water.
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Old 06-19-2015, 02:55 PM   #159
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Under the carpet in the foot well is a plug. You should be able to pop it up from under the car to drain all the water.
It's like 99 today and sunny, so I left the top down and am hoping a lot of it dried up. Put a towel down there to soak some up this morning too. Any ideas where it could be leaking that made only that wet? My first thought is rain rail.
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:56 PM   #160
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Rain rail drains would be my first suspect on driver's side. Passenger side can also be A/C drain.
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