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At some point over the winter I must have pulled the wires out of my IAT sensor and need to re wire it. In efforts to make it as clean as possible should I wire it directly to the megasquirt and bypass all oem wiring and use a deutsch connector, or Just push into the afm plug like before?
Pushing wires/contacts into a connector is the furthest away from clean. If the IAT already has a connector (most do), cut AFM connector and crimp splice and heat shrink. If it's a direct wired IAT, cut and add DT connector.
I know that pushing the wires in is not clean but it seems like a lot of people do it that way. I much prefer cutting and splicing over just about everything else.
Quick update. Just got the brakes broke in on a quick test around town and it stops insanely well with the sport rears and v8r fronts. Pedal is firm with the wilwood master. And the best part.
Leafy talked me into a volvo 850 fan and I wired it to a derale pwm controller and it is awesome. Comes on nice a slow so no idle fluctuations and right now didn't get above 190f bUT thats on the road with 50f ambient so we will see how it does on the track but still a massive improvent over factory
Does the controller allow for 100% activation when a signal is input from ecu or or a/C button or is it an isolated circuit only relying on the temp probe?
Does the controller allow for 100% activation when a signal is input from ecu or or a/C button or is it an isolated circuit only relying on the temp probe?
it has an over ride circuit so it can be turned on with a switch. It can also be wired for a normal fan and ac fan, a high low fan like I have, or single fan
Is the probe in stream or just nested in the radiator fins? I've wondered about these unite once upon a time, but never really moved on trying one out.
Is the probe in stream or just nested in the radiator fins? I've wondered about these unite once upon a time, but never really moved on trying one out.
I had a personal issue with stabbing my radiator so I fount a a plug to replace the original fan control and drill and tapped it just enough for the sensor to screw in all the way. I didn't drill through to prevent a possible leak point.
Also I didn't use the probe just the sensor there should be posts earlier in the thread. I'll post more pics of all my wiring too when I get off work.
Its for my dads 2000 F450 work truck. He has 370K and decided to do a full exhaust upgrade with big fast spooling turbo. Fast spooling in the diesel world anyway.
Has anyone had an issue with pad knock after switching to the wilwood BBK? Its most noticeable when parking when you go forward and backwards while braking a few times. Control arm bushings seem good but it is in the realm of possibility that they are moving.
Also unrelated but developed a nice oil leak on the front of the 1.6 motor yesterday. Looks to be leaking around the oil pump area but have yet to investigate since i got home so late last night.
Never encountered pad knock on my dynapros. I did have clunks when the bushing sleeves where too long on early batch of SADFab stuff, but that was easily rectified...never happened again.
Got the last of my parts/assembly lubes and stuff on order to assemble the block so that should happen soon. Starting to acquire all the parts to build the head early this winter. Hellafab is still working on the manifold I think there is still one person in line in front of me on that one. In the mean time starting to focus on supporting mods in the fuel system and new cooling bits.
Mostly together. Need to order some oem seals for the oil pimp pickup and a few other misc parts but other than that it's all together and I can seal the pan up when those parts arrive. Super stoked on the balancing. I has the crank and rods balanced to 1/10 gram then the pistons and rings came out to within .06 gram. I can live with that.
03-20-2018, 10:32 AM
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