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Old 04-26-2014, 08:07 PM   #21
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Got the down pipe rebuilt, including patching the 2 obsolete O2 sensor bungs, the muffler hung, and all but the loops around the differential and over the axle tacked. Ran out of time. Running 3" means you just can't throw it in. There is enough room, but not a lot to spare.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:32 PM   #22
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We have positive pressure in the intake manifold!

What a total blast. Misting out, and only guesswork VE above 100kPa, so I took it somewhat easy and watched AFR's.

No regrets.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:49 PM   #23
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that's GRRREAT congrats man
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:01 AM   #24
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Thanks for all the help. MT forum and "Maximum Boost" were pretty much all of my education. So far "waste gate only" seems to put 8 psi in the manifold, which is more than I expected. Tomorrow I should be able to get some logs and post the spool.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:05 PM   #25
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As I run pulls, the max boost keeps getting higher. Was about 8PSI, now about 11PSI.
Seems like the wastegate is failing.

I checked the WGA. It is fine. I think it where it wants to be. I did change the preload from about 4mm to 1mm and will try that in the morning.

Meanwhile, here is my log for a 2 and 3rd gear pull:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1398822526
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File Type: msl Spool.msl (81.9 KB, 196 views)

Last edited by DNMakinson; 04-29-2014 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Add WGA info and LOG
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:17 PM   #26
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Default What Fun

I adjusted the waste gate preload and now boost creep is contained to 10 PSI. I guess this is to be expected with a well-executed SGDP. Makes the engine pull hard right up to the red-line.

First Problem:



I noted earlier that the welder cup was bad and we were getting trash in the welds. This is non-structural, so I keep running it an see if any others give problems. The welds to the flange were clean. I will post a question about this separately.

So far, no issues with temps, even though no heat shield, but my clearances are greater than most installs. I do have insulation on the hood, and will add a vertical only shield before summer gets here.

Hot re-starts do still result in high AFR's as many have reported, even though there is no heat soak of the AIT. I am fully convinced the problem really is injector coil resistance shift. I have the RX-8 yellow injectors. It seems to me that these are quite succeptable to this issue. Anyway, I let the EGO take care of it. No way to band-aid this with MAT corrections as it takes like 10% EGO correction from normal to hot re-start to keep AFR the same. And, as I said, I'm getting no real or false high AIT anyway.
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Moderate Power on 1999-008.jpg  

Last edited by DNMakinson; 05-08-2014 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:23 AM   #27
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General update:

Tuning continues. I have the hot restarts pretty much under control with rich idle and 10% EGO. AFR's are stable at 70 kPa and up with no EGO. I do suspect I may be a bit rich most places as fuel economy is down. I have the serial to CAN module on order from Reverant, so then I will have what I believe to be a reliable reference.

No knock indications. I pulled the #3 plug this AM and it looks perfect to me. Light grey ground, white ceramic (no spots of any kind) and some black on face of end of the threaded part. I plan to log knock sense levels in neutral and set knock control %;s this week. I am using Reverant's pre-programmed frequency, and windowing settings that came with base map.

I am living with the cracked manifold, and will likely live with it this season. The other butt welds are starting to crack but all fillets are still good. Considering a full rebuild, only salvaging the outlet v-band flange piece that I machined. May be easier in the long run, and not that expensive.

My only goals now are to enjoy this power level, and then bump it this winter.

Tires are now 195-50-15 Direzza Z2's. Much better than the Khumo AST's I had before, which I will put on another set of rims for cold weather use.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:46 AM   #28
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Yeah I'd just get a new flange and some new els. If you had a bad cup welding up the first one, you might as well just make a new one rather than repair every weld in the old one.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:50 PM   #29
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Default Some Progress

Even though I have been driving the car for a couple of months, I wondered if I could still have some air in the cooling system, so I did this:



Raised the front about a foot. The coolant dropped about 1" in the radiator immediately. Two fan cycles and no more air out. I also added some foam between mouth and FMIC. Between the two things, I'm hopeful that A/C, 95* out, and driving at 50mph will not see the 220*F that I have been.

Then I did a real corning weighting with a set of scales borrowed from a friend. I had not rechecked ride height since I first put in the coil-overs. I knew that they weren't fully settled when I set them before. I used bags of sand to mimic my weight.

Indeed, all corners were down about 0.25". The corner weighting, however, was almost perfect at 50.56%. Went quickly and with 2 rounds of adjustment got my heights and retained Corner to 50.06%. F/R= 51.9/48.1% and total is exactly 2500, with spare tire and 200 pounds of sand.





I also adjusted the PPF to XMSN to get the height at nominal. Loosened the bolts, jacked to max height, tightened the bolts, removed jack. Ended up at 2.5" when service manual says 2.37 - 2.83.

Transmission is now quiet as it was before clutch change.

Also checked XMSN fluid level and it was perfect. I had neglected to do so after we put in the clutch.

Finally, I have the new Exhaust head flange and pipe fittings to begin the manifold re-build, but have not begun fitting them.

All for now. Just really enjoying driving the car.
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Moderate Power on 1999-p1020547.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-p1020549.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-p1020550.jpg  
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:49 PM   #30
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Here is the VirtualDyno for the car as-is. Air temp was actually 95*F. Run as a Mustang. Shows what I would think about right at this boost level. Still a bit concerned that the Yellow Tops will support ALLOFIT that the TD04 can give, though they should.

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Moderate Power on 1999-8_17_14_3rd_gear_mustang.png  
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:18 AM   #31
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Mustang setting on VD tends to read really low, so that's not bad. You're probably a lot closer to 200 than you think. Looks like boost comes on around 3k which is about right (and considering you have a giant leak, is actually not bad)

I'd drop the afr in the midrange a tad. I think you're lean. at least to me

btw, ALLOFIT on that td04 is 23psi. (though will taper to 12ish by redline)

ask me how I know

congrats on a running turbo car
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:50 AM   #32
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Crack usually closes when hot (at least by sound).

Right now I have tables set so that when I increase boost, AFR will drop some more. Still, what RPM's do you mean by mid-range? I can adjust.

In this case, by ALLOFIT I am more referring to the flow, which has a very steep efficiency line such that it will start blowing hot at same flow whether 15 psi or 20 psi. I doubt I have the bullocks to try for 23.

Right now, a pull like this will result in the intercooler outlet raised about 9*F over ambient. So this unknown brand FMIC seems to be doing its job.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:10 AM   #33
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3-4.5k and that spike at 5.2ish is what I'm talkinga bout. I realize you're "only" running 6-7psi down there so its likely ok, but I still wouldn't take chances. just a thought
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Old 09-19-2014, 07:31 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
3-4.5k and that spike at 5.2ish is what I'm talkinga bout. I realize you're "only" running 6-7psi down there so its likely ok, but I still wouldn't take chances. just a thought
I got that settled out. Some of it was caused by EAE bouncing just a bit. So I turned it down with RPM and that tamed it. VE table is getting pretty dialed in now. Certainly as much as I want to, and now full boost is only just about 12mS squirts at about 11.7 AFR. So, I will have some headroom to turn it on up this winter.

I need to build / borrow / rent some DET cans. I think I have the Knock Sensor set up correctly such that timing will get pulled, but without the cans, I don't know if all the settings are on the money. When I see in a log where timing is being pulled, then I reduce the timing at the offending cells.
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Old 09-19-2014, 07:50 PM   #35
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Now, a little progress:

I used detailing clay for the first time. Amazing results. Then I tested a headlight clarification that has been around on the interweb: Sand and then coat with Spar Urethane.

I used the '02 Camry as the guinea pig, as I figured if I messed up one of those lights, it would be less costly to replace than the NB1 unit.

Here's what I found to work well:
1) Wet sand using Meguiars 34 "Final Inspection" (same as I used to lube the clay) with 600 until dust is not yellow.
2) Wet sand with 1000 grit.
3) Wet sand with 1500 grit.
4) (2) coats of 1/2 Urethane and 1/2 Mineral Spirits, applied with a dust free cloth, separated by 1/2 hour.

I found 1 coat not to be complete, and the 3rd coat never went on nicely.

Results of each step are shown below on the Camry, and then a cameo of the Miata:
Taped:


After 600 grit:


After 1000 grit:


After 1500 grit:


With urethane / MS mixture:


Finished:


Miata Before:


Miata After:


I did the Miata, sand both with 600, the both with 1000, etc. I think the entire job took less than 45 minutes of actual labor, plus the 30 min wait time.

Reputed to last a minimum of 2 years.
Attached Thumbnails
Moderate Power on 1999-img_1232.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-img_1233.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-img_1234.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-img_1235.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-img_1236.jpg  

Moderate Power on 1999-img_1237.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-img_1238.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-img_1239.jpg  
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Old 09-19-2014, 07:57 PM   #36
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Looks good, nice work! Thanks for laying out the steps.
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:14 PM   #37
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what is this urethane you're talking about?
link?

I use mguires headlight restore and it also works wonders, but wondering if there's a "coating" that would preserve that shine for longer tahn a few months
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:28 PM   #38
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It is a Minwax product called Helmsman Spar Urethane. Like Spar varnish, it is made to not weather or yellow.

You leave the polycarbonate milky, hence the 1500 grit, and the urethane bonds. You don't want to apply it to a polished surface. Yet it is thin enough to fill all those gaps, and with 2 coats, it ends up a polished surface.

link to properties

Mix half with mineral spirits and wipe on, not brush. Some say to use a blue paper shop towel, folded small. I used a lint free painting cloth.
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:19 AM   #39
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Default Rebuild Manifold

Finally got started rebuilding the Exhaust Manifold.

Same general construction and parts, but welded with ER70S-2 filler. I will be pulling the outlet from the old one and welding it in properly when the car comes off the street.

Also continuing tuning. Pretty close except cold starts. I did get a AFR fuel cut when hitting throttle fast during a full acceleration after a fast shift 1-2. Looking to fix that with more EAE above 100 kPa and some more TPS enrichment for really fast TPS(dot).

I have a second set of stock rims (15" '99) so have my crappy winter tires going on today. I will have to adjust to nearly zero grip.

Pics of Mani re-build below:







Attached Thumbnails
Moderate Power on 1999-p1020652.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-p1020654.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-p1020655.jpg   Moderate Power on 1999-p1020656.jpg  

Last edited by DNMakinson; 11-08-2014 at 10:20 AM. Reason: Removed extra pic
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:30 PM   #40
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Nice.

Post up your crank pw scale if/when you can. I want to compare to see how far off mine is. I think I'm getting close with mine, yesterday it cold started pretty smoothly, just took a couple more turns to actually fire, so I think it just needs a wee bit more.
It's:
14* - 345
smooth taper to
176* - 90
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