Vlad,

Here are my settings. Getting better and better. I am also adding a little prime pulse to try to cause the first firing to be sooner. Takes so long to tune when you get one try per day (cold first start).

I think if had as much as you on the cold end, I'd flood for sure.

I included the ASE because I have been adding that and it helps. In other words, the crank pulses are not bad, but the follow-on is less than ideal.

 

what size filler are you using? it looks like 1/16"? i would either step up to 3/32 or make a cover pass over the butt welds. they look to be cutting in judging by the picture. you have plenty of heat just need more filler.

 

Pretty sure it was 1/16" rod. I, too, was wondering if they needed another pass. I'll talk with my son-in-law, who actually does the welding.

 

Here is the list of items for the next steps:

Find latency on old and new coils
Coolant Reroute
Roll Cage
Chassis Braces (full set from MSM)
CAN -Serial interface for LC-2 input
Indicator lights for
1. Logging
2. AFR Warning: I think this is +5V
3. 235* Coolant
Switch for Logging
Switch and input jack for music
Key Switch for EBC
Switch for LC-2 power?
New boost Gauge
Label gauges
Foamectomy
Install Hella Horns
*edit* Install Tow Hooks
EBC
COP and harness simplification
Heat Shield?
Rebuild Exhaust Manifold
Return Style Fuel set-up and adj VE Table? OR 625cc EV-14 Inj
O2 Sensor Bung for Dyno
*edit* Properly mount ECU
Catch can? Unlikely
Dyno Tune

Question 1:
Referring to the following picture:

My question is, with the clearances I have (minimum 3" around hot stuff), and that I may (I hope) track the car, should I:
1) Ceramic Coat the downpipe
2) Add heat shield

In other words, should I bother with the heat shield given the clearances I have, or should I view it as cheap insurance. So far, on the street, the adhesive on the 3M +33 tape has not even softened (holding the lines together). What do you say Sixshooter?

Question 2:
I did get rise in CLT in summer with A/C on and boost. I never saw IAT go more than 11*F over ambient, though street only. Do you think the coolant re-route will fix this, or should I look into bypassing some air around the FMIC and more directly to the radiator?

Question 3:
I was going to go to return type fueling as I have the yellow tops. I wanted to increase the knowledge base with a before and after info on injector / fuel heat soak with both systems. However, it looks like the EV-14 injectors from the Mustang have pretty much obsoleted the Yellow Tops as the cheap, go-to injectors. Should I just skip the fuel modification and get the EV-14's?

DNM

 

heat shield over ceramic coat for sure
both would be even better

 

Did you get your CLTs down?

 

No. See question 2. Of course, they have been fine lately.

 

I had high CLTs right after I put my turbo in. I put the under tray back on, installed a 180* tstat, sealed off the top of the rad to the support, and put on the aluminum plate from BEGi that goes around the hood latch area. I was getting even hotter than you, now I stay steady at 190*. Occasionally I'll see a higher temp right before the thermostat first opens, but drops within seconds when it does.

 

Thanks, Andy. I had seen your thread in that. IIRC you do have a re-route. Is that correct?

 

I do not.

I will see come summer if I need to or not. (Florida)

 

No pics, but a brief update. Finally go around to changing out the bad WGA, though letting boost run up to 11 psi at redline has been fun. Now I'm at a steady 9 with the spring in the Kinugawa actuator.

Unfortunately, I damaged my coolant line (likely at the crimp end), so I'm down until I replace the line. I will likely go with some other arrangement as this had too tight a bend, hence the damage.

Pretty sure I through away the banjo tubes that came on the turbo, so using that is not an option.

 

Here are a couple of shots. First is the addition of the Kinugawa WGA. It was supposed to be shipped with a 0.5 BAR actuator add-on to the 1.0 in the housing. Instead they shipped a separate 1.5 BAR. They took care of the problem right away.


Second shot is where I got a Banjo to barb from Flyin Miata and some brake line to add in a hard section. Worked well except I have to replace the cheap clamps with something better.


This has gotten a new item to my list: Install hard lines for coolant and oil feed. I will need to borrow or purchase a 37* flaring tool, and then weld in -6AN fittings to the mixing manifold and the return neck (well, what will be left of the return neck after we cut it down). I will have to decide how I want to run the coolants and then I'll know to get Banjo, straight adaptors, or one of each; with -6AN males for the CHRA.

 

I always run through a thought experiment when thinking of modifying my setup. I want to use the heater core outlet as the water source, maybe from the bypass line itself, then have the turbo return the coolant through a -AN bung welded to the mixing manifold.

I think full-race told me -8AN or -10 AN is the largest they've put on EFR's then space is quite limited.

If I recall the heater core hoses are -12AN equiv.

Sorry, just thinking/typing out loud when I hear about cleaning up plumbing

 

No worries, P, help yourself.

So what I'm thinking on front outlet is to cut it off and weld a plate that is even with the plastic cover. To that, weld the -6AN bung for the feed. Alternatively, leave the outlet a little longer and mount the bung to the side for a straight in approach of the hard line.

 

Here is my first start this morning. Time between faint timelines is 1.25 seconds, so about 6 events. This is getting real close. Using batch inj during start, EAE is tamed, I'm pretty happy with cold start progress:


The hesitation at the transition was nearly imperceptible (in the RPM trace).

 

very cool. I'm getting close too
after we figure this out we need to compare the settings side by side

 

Indeed. The interesting thing is all of the interrelated settings and conditions that go into starts / restarts / and after-starts.

 

just for reference, mine:
cold - 7 events
hot - 4 events

 

I hated what batch did to my hot starts so much that I went back to sequential. At 70* this evening, it was 4 max, and very smooth. In the AM we will see how it does at 30*. I'll just edit this post then.

*EDIT* next AM at 35*, cranked and stalled. Then cranked and ran with struggling. Unfortunately, we may br get any more cold weather this year.

I will post my settings next week, when I have a variety of starts on logs.

 

Please keep us updated with your actual settings,