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The wrap works BADASSED but...
It just kills headers and tubing, even stainless stuff.
Normal tubing you might get 6 months out of.
Stainless 12-18 months.
As long as you consider the exhaust a consumable item you will love it.
I wrapped a 6 X 1 Z car header once. AFTER a 1/4 mile run you could grab a primary with your hands and hold on indefinitely.
It is underneath the intake manifold on a Z and dropped the inlet temps by 100+ degrees.
Definitely worth it!
But the Motorsports 6X1 header died 5 months later. It was not stainless.
The header "blankets" give small airflow to the header and this makes things last longer.
I'm a big believer in dedicated air gapped shields with intentional airflow paths.
Ceramic coating on the inside of the header and pipes helps as well (and extends the life of the tubing).
If I was in your shoes I'd size my system for 400 hp and then try to run 250-275hp through it.
With 2.375 tubing I would check pressure/temp at both header exit and turbine inlet. Any pressure difference would make me change stuff.
With the lower HP# you're shooting for that size may work fine. Still needs to be verified.
The intake tubing should be checked for losses as well. A 2" tube will work fine in a normal application but it might not in a extremely long run.
PatMX5 is who I'd want to talk to about your set up. He had a compounding dual set up with a large turbo in the rear feeding a normal turbo in the front.
I'd want to do a "Vulcan mind meld" to him regarding a rear set up.
I believe he is changing to a normal position BIG turbo now. He's drag race but the data he could provide would be very valuable.
If I was in your shoes I'd size my system for 400 hp and then try to run 250-275hp through it.
I'm class limited to 184whp at my current weight, if I ballast up to 2600lbs I'm looking at 203whp. For now I'm just planning to run 184whp at 2351lbs b/c it's easier on everything and that's also why I'm about to be trying the GBC20-300 (2554R-ish sized) to see if I can get the spool dialed in. Just hoping it's not too small, but if so will just have to sell it and move up to GBC22-350. I'll definitely be keeping this thread updated to see how various changes affect things doing this all the wrong way
Things are gettin real silly over here. Along with relocating intercooler for use with roof scoop I've also got some completely normal projects coming up; Supermiata 863 bushing kit, replacing cam seal (one of them has been puuuuking, sooo prolly need to work on ventilation too), new turbo install, maybe finally put it on a dyno so it'll be class compliant?
That looks like it could be hawt, but need some side profile shots
It's made for an Exige so needs a little work to meet back up with fastback. Prolly gonna cut it where it starts disconnecting from the top, then use foam to build a template and glass it back together.
Looks sexy, but ... you are risking turbulence coming off it and affecting the performance of the wing.
I'd be looking at fully exploiting the high pressure area at the base of the windscreen before complicating my aerodynamic life, but YMMV.
If you carry that through, what do your rules say about wing position? Here it can't be higher that the roof of the car (generally, there may be exceptions), and it looks like you have just added appreciable to that height - I'd be building some new mounts to take advantage of that (if it applies to you) which would also reduce the impact of the scoop on the wing.
Looks sexy, but ... you are risking turbulence coming off it and affecting the performance of the wing.
I'd be looking at fully exploiting the high pressure area at the base of the windscreen before complicating my aerodynamic life, but YMMV.
If you carry that through, what do your rules say about wing position? Here it can't be higher that the roof of the car (generally, there may be exceptions), and it looks like you have just added appreciable to that height - I'd be building some new mounts to take advantage of that (if it applies to you) which would also reduce the impact of the scoop on the wing.
I'm not too worried about it tbh. Even with full body width wing we're talking very mild aero on barely 130mph shitboxes imo (as compared to purpose built racecars; GT3, F3+, LMP, etc). I also went with this style duct so it will have a chance to reconnect airflow. If McLaren can make it work on supercars I figured it'll be ok for a miata 😄 Not sure how I would get high pressure air from my cowl to an intercooler, I don't see that as being viable, but I've been wrong plenty of times before.
Anyways, I'm just gonna run it as is and will assess whether or not high speed balance has been affected or not. If yes, I might look into full width wing. No height restrictions in GLTC but I don't really want to send my wing sky high, but I'll cross that bridge if/when I get there
Did a whole lot of nothing for a good few months, but with Mid-Ohio a few weeks out have been turnin' n burnin' on projects. The GBC already has its IWG spot welded shut, but haven't even gone to pick it up. Have everything needed to install it, but not prioritizting that since it took so long for some of the parts to show up. I'm also considering repositioning the turbo and might have fab guy make some nicer mounting than my square bar, so, we'll takcle that after MidO. Part of why I want to hold off is to see if all the work around moving/boxing in the intercooler and ducting it will actually work as I'm doing it. Under the roof scoop I'm going to be placing 2 or 3 - 3" NACA ducts for feed side, then 4 - 3" ducts all routed to rear finish panel/rear bumper. If that's not enough pull my plan will be to reposition the turbo/exhaust so I can acutally build a full box to the rear finish panel unobstructed. I kinda predict that the hose is gonna be too much obstruction and not flow well enough, but we'll see. This project is turning in how to spend way more money doing DIY butt turbo vs kit...but at least it's fun(?) lol
Things I'm hoping to have complete by this Sunday so I can start tuning the car. If IAT's stay down I'm planning on making a flat or at least partially flat tune.
- Intercooler final mounting solution
- Intercooler fully ducted from roof scoop to rear finish/bumper
- EWG 7lbs spring (current is 4.5lbs. Using a ton of boost duty to control boost so want to see if 7lbs spring will have easier time running 6.5-7psi at mani...prolly 9-10lbs at turbo?)
- Wilwood prop valve
- Rear view camera install since i can't see ****** **** outta this thing
Ugly box, but it'll do
Roof scoop cut and front section riveted on. Going to use craft foam stuff to form up a center section and fiberglass it.
Livery I whipped up in GIMP, based off Gathers JTCC Civic. Vinyl has been ordered and trying to get all projects wrapped up so I have time to knock it out before MidO
Got tired of farts n' crafts last night so decided to swap stuff to my spare $170 turbo since current $170 turbo is getting shaft play in every direction. Some combination of 4an feed and scavenge pump not keeping up has been blowing oil through the seals on decel and it's not happy. Got a 4an restrictor to hopefully resolve that for the one more weekend I plan to run it and also got a 90 degree fitting for the scavenge pump so the oil drain is a straight shot. Also slapped the 7lbs spring in the TiAL and realized there's a 5.8 spring available as an intermediate spring between 4.3 and 7 just incase I need it. And finally, got the wilwood prop installed. Last time I tried to install it the union wouldn't stop leaking and then I broke a brass fitting so WOMP WOMP, but we good now. REALLY hoping this leads to more confident threshold braking and allows for more natural transition from threshold to trail while rolling speed. It's a sensation that has really been illuding me, because I feel like my fronts are doing everything and rear are doing not enough... I *know* what it feels like from like a bagillion hours of sim racing at a high level and feeling it in well setup enduro cars when I have 2 hours at a time to let my brain figure it out...but in sprint race/DE format I feel like I'm just cave manning my way through brake zones. So, some amount is I just need more seat time, but another is really needing to get my system dialed.
So roof scoop fed intercooler did "work", but not nearly enough. On street I was running ambient to about 20-30f over after multiple pulls, which would then settle back down to ambient, but that was no match for track. On humid mid 80's day (hottest the car has seen since turbo) it was running around 160-170f IAT which is cooler than it was previously on 60-70f ambient, but that's still terrible. Have decided to give up on putting the intercooler anywhere other than up front. Haven't bought one yet, but planning to go over the top of radiator b/c that makes routing much easier in this case. Because the intake has to come from passenger side, then back to throttle body it would be a nightmare and more piping/bends to do traditional intercooler. I'm goin to keep the roof scoop for now and use it for both feeding a boxed in intake and also venting the trunk and see how that goes.
Unfortunately, I forgot to torque my water pump pulley bolts after some work I did and then it fell off on track at NOLA. I didn't notice temp gauge and was running 240+ for a lap, noticed the car was losing power and sounded wrong, brought it in, and it died while pulling into paddock spot b/c no alternator. Compression test was awful getting 40-90psi from 1-3 and then 170 on 4. Ripped the head off and got it decked, but considering just doing full rebuild at this point before I put it back together. In the meantime I've ripped off all the control arms and working on installing ES bushings with Supermiata bronze bearings and also started the livery!
I ain't giving up on butt turbo, but man, still feel like there's a long way to go before it's even remotely "full prep" in GLTC. Going to add hood/fender vents this winter and if budget allows OSGiken, but main goal is to finalize the turbo/intercooler stuff so I can just make reliable class power, keep it cool, and focus on everything else. Been goofing off way too long with a partially finished car and kinda over it.
Got a bit burned out working on this shitbox and took a break, but lately been getting steady work done. Should be back up and running soon, then off to fabricator so I can get the GBC20-300 up and running and also prolly let him build a mount (RIP square bar). In the meantime finally finished installing ES bushings with Supermiata bronze bearings, replaced ball joints (UCA's were original and uh, not great), replaced driver rear LCA/spindle because the originals refused to come apart, new splitter/air dam, and a buncha screwin' around finding appropriate hardware for the used MSM motor I installed because I didn't know it had oil returns on BOTH sides of the oil pan. Capped off driver side and using passenger side for oil return since my feed/return from scavenge pump run along the PPF.
Coming soon...
GBC20-300, will it make GLTC power or just blow a buncha hot air?
FMIC, CXRacing vs IATs
Race Louver hood vents and Singular fender vents
Thinking bout building some side skirts?
Finally dyno tune it? Who knows...
Then off for some testing/shakedown before GLTC at Road Americ with Xfinity.
Well the GBC20-300 ain't lazy. The T3 was always less responsive on street than on track so I'm thinking the Garrett is gonna absolutely riiiippppp conidering it immediately starts making boost at WOT with relativey cold exhaust. Didn't have EBC hooked up, but also forgot to hook reference up so it was trying to make infinite boost and hit overboost protection at 4500rpm. Woops. Lot of work to do before I can really go tune. Gotta hook EBC back up, properly mount IC/oil cooler, and knock out ducting, but gettin there! New exhaust is straight shot 3" vs the 270 degrees worth of bends on 2.5" and now has o2 sensor bung so gonna move that. Found out boost affects the signal so having it in stock (RB header) location prolly isn't ideal, was ignorant to this previously .
GBC20-300
T3 50 trim during street tuning / virtual dyno session. Always did some brake boost and partial pulls to get it exhaust hot before VD pull, still lazy.
04-04-2022, 11:03 AM
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