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Love the updates man, your car looks insane and the remote setup is super cool. Nice numbers too!
Thanks bud!
Next up is more boring projects; bigger intercooler, proper mounting of IC/oil cooler, ducting, catch can setup, playing with restrictor sizes on feed (it's smoking like a B, based on what I did for T3 needs more restrictor), properly fiberglassing the janky roof scoop modifications (got a buddy that builds skimboards and willing to dork around/teach me some stuff), and so on.
...but I'm ok with that, I'm kinda over reinventing the wheel
Well, that was an absolute failure on a couple different fronts. First up, in only 2 laps of the first practice session the car got loose in T6 (Road America), I put initial correction in having felt the same amount of slide plenty of times before and easily reigning it in, but it just kept going so had to do a full correction planning to merely straight line it off track and come back on nice n' easy. But NOPE. T6 gravel trap decided to rip off my right splitter mount, torque it 90 degrees under the car, crush/puncture an oil cooler line, and tweak/puncture my radiator. Weekend over. Worst part was I didn't think it could have possible been that bad so came back on track and oiled T7/T8. Luckily no one picked up damage from that, but it did end the sesson. Lame.
Eithe way the weekend was over though. In those 2 laps i hit 210f MAT and 240f coolant temps. The new turbo is WWAAAYYYYY too small, the T3 50 trim was much better choice, but now I'm thinking of going the opposite direction with something like a 2860RS or G25-550 (but Pulsar b/c poverty). Spool over 4000rpm at rull rip on track wasn't any better and all the G20 did was blow heat. I don't think going up one size to G22 or 2560 is really the answer at this point. As long as I can spool it at 4500rpm plus at full rip I want to priortize runnig the least amount of boost for all of my power and also support more easily hitting flat power. If anything coming in a little soft might help the trans last and I have no aspirations of running up front anyways. If remote mount can't spool those optiosn well enough there's always giving up on it and ordering Kraken. Since it's all T25 flange I can easily bolt them straight into existing setup or change to turbo manifold. Figure as long as i have options it's pretty low risk to give it a try...gonna think on my options a bit more before pulling any triggers.
For reference the NC 2.0 MZR Turbo gang is having pretty great success with the 2860RS. Justin was absolutely ripping this weekend and giving folks the business in the straight stuff.
No idea if the motor is ok, I'm going to remove the oil cooler, change the oil, and check for knock knock jokes, but not expecting much. Saw 0 pressure on the stock gauge any time I hit throttle while getting it off track and behind the wall.
No idea if the motor is ok, I'm going to remove the oil cooler, change the oil, and check for knock knock jokes, but not expecting much. Saw 0 pressure on the stock gauge any time I hit throttle while getting it off track and behind the wall.
Damage mitigation is something that is tough to do without trial and error. Keeping critical components as safe as possible from "minor" incidents is something I've gone back and forth with my turbo Miata guru many times. Thats why my oil cooler lives where the pass headlight used to be and my undertray isn't attached to my ducting.
Damage mitigation is something that is tough to do without trial and error. Keeping critical components as safe as possible from "minor" incidents is something I've gone back and forth with my turbo Miata guru many times. Thats why my oil cooler lives where the pass headlight used to be and my undertray isn't attached to my ducting.
I'm just gonna go back to air dam, splitters are dum
I have been a follower of the 'breakaway' theory of splitter/undertray mounting, strong enough to hold the aero loads, with weak points to fail when digging into a sand trap and the like. And nothing mounted to/on it, for the obvious reason. Ironically never actually put it to the test!
Do you know why you had that 'moment' that led to the off?
Alternatively, I should prolly just pony up for a 6258 and never look back. Same thing with f it doesn't spool well enough can just mount it up front where it belongs later on, but I have a feeling it would be good enough and the softer ramp into boost might save my trans if anything lol.
Originally Posted by Gee Emm
Do you know why you had that 'moment' that led to the off?
Dunno, some combination of trash fireston alignment, not having driven in a while, and being on 2 hours of sleep after a 17 hour tow...who knows. I'm not afriad of sliding around I do it all the time (the folks at NASA Nola love watching / commenting on my slide-wasing around the final corner). It just started sliding and didn't want to stop so had to go with a much bigger correction and straigtening up into an off.
Seriously considering just ordering Kraken EFR kit.
Also leanred last night that the Macca MP4-12C GT3 car (inspiration for center exit exhaust) used water/air intercoolers and now my stupid brain is serously considering putting the larger air/air IC back behind the cage BUT with proper ducting this time and then strapping a water/air radiator to engine radiator with inline water/air IC. The mishimoto IC behind cage with abysmal ducting did knock of about 20f, with proper ducting and maybe even better IC that number could get better, then knock off the rest of the temp with water/air seems PLAUSIBLE, but man the amount of failure points being introduced with pumps (turbo oil scavenge pump and then water/air IC pump...sheesh)
Water to air is a headache. My weekend/fun car is a 2nd gen Cadillac CTS-V and even the OEM factory engineered water to air system has a ton of failure points and shortcomings. My setup has just about every "fix" and upgrade that you can do to it, and I know it's a supercharger and not a turbo, but it has so much more complexity and weight than a tried and true air to air setup and it usually can't perform as well as an air to air setup either, even with a massive heat exchanger that is as big as the main radiator itself right up front making it hard to keep the car cool in the AZ summers...
Water to air is a headache. My weekend/fun car is a 2nd gen Cadillac CTS-V and even the OEM factory engineered water to air system has a ton of failure points and shortcomings. My setup has just about every "fix" and upgrade that you can do to it, and I know it's a supercharger and not a turbo, but it has so much more complexity and weight than a tried and true air to air setup and it usually can't perform as well as an air to air setup either, even with a massive heat exchanger that is as big as the main radiator itself right up front making it hard to keep the car cool in the AZ summers...
Don't go down that rabbit hole.
Yeah I figured as much considering you never see them. Good news is a couple of new Raceway stations are bringing e85 to the area, so if that sticks around I'm just gonna get A/A working as well as possible and quit caring otherwise lol
Seriously considering just ordering Kraken EFR kit.
Also leanred last night that the Macca MP4-12C GT3 car (inspiration for center exit exhaust) used water/air intercoolers and now my stupid brain is serously considering putting the larger air/air IC back behind the cage BUT with proper ducting this time and then strapping a water/air radiator to engine radiator with inline water/air IC. The mishimoto IC behind cage with abysmal ducting did knock of about 20f, with proper ducting and maybe even better IC that number could get better, then knock off the rest of the temp with water/air seems PLAUSIBLE, but man the amount of failure points being introduced with pumps (turbo oil scavenge pump and then water/air IC pump...sheesh)
Why am I like this.
There is something to be said for going with something simple. I'll let you know what I end up doing to get it down to GLTC power levels. I haven't thought about water/air IC, but water injection has been in the back of my brain as a way to reduce temps.
Back to roof scoop shenanigans. I'm not expecting proper FMIC efficiency, but I wanted to at least revisit this project and I think there's a real chance the bottom of the fastback window will vent pretty well. Did my ducting today which is WAAYYYY better than last iteration, next up will be some fiberglassing, make shift vent the window, then get the car back up and running for a tuft test.
Welp, haven't been doing anything with the car since Road America and the false start on roof scoop and intercooler ducting. Had the mold made for roof scoop, but let the expanding foam sit so long it broke down and I'm gonna have to start over, woops.. No worries though because motivation has returned and we're gettin' stuff done around here since I would like to be ready BEFORE Gridlife CMP isntead of scrambling. This weekend I got the car back up and running with new radiator, installed a new KBD front bumper (side skirts going on later), and uhhh maybe I installed yet another churbo. Ok, I deifnitely installed a new churbo because I can't stomach ~$2500 for a EFR on a crapbox racecar that I've already spent waaaayyy too much money on dorkin around with butt turbo stuff and only plan to track 3-4 times a year at most. I know that's void of logic, but bare with me. Without any real science besides logs, butt dyno, and gut feelings I had a strong suspicion the GBC20-300 is just way, way too small. Even against the T3 50 trim churbo it was making less hp per pound of boost while producing more heat (admittedly running more psi, so duh, but it needed that extra psi just to keep up) so I've been spitballing with what to do. Thing that really stuck out to me comparing GBC20 against T3 was it didn't really spool any better where it matters (on track, hot exhaust, 4k+ rpm) and had a muuuuch smaller turbine wheel at 47mm inducer / 42mm exducer vs T3 64mm inducer / 46mm exducer respectively. So after a lot of pokin around the interwebz and thinkin' things over I finally decided I should try the polar opposite direction, enter Pulsar GTX2860r. Have only done one quick rip, but it's immediately obvious this gives up nothing in reponse and hell, might even be the fastest spooling one yet. Even on cold exhaust it's trying to get rowdy, so I'm already concened the TiAL 38mm wastegate might not keep up, but we'll see!
Did another quick pull for good measure and then took stock of what wastegate springs I had laying around. Only one missing is Red/5.8lbs and I'm hitting low/mid 9lbs with boost duty table on minimum values. Guess we're just gonna have to put some ballast in 'er and build a motor (pls no) for DE full SAWCE shenanigans I guess.
Wastegate can handle the boost being thrown at it just fine (figured as much), took the spring out and it made 0.6-1psi according ot logs. Threw the lightest spring in (4.3lbs) and with no boost duty it's making 7psi now. I'm guessing I either have a small leak in a vaccum reference line or the 90 degree angle is just throwing things off, but makes sense why I needed so little boost duty to hit 2x spring pressure previously. Oh well, can figure that out later. Just steady moving through various projects with no real agenda other than get stuff done. Ordered a rear view camera setup from https://www.jfracing.net/ and digging it so far. True test will be broad daylight on track, but it's a well put together kit and already looks be better than the Amazon one I was using previously (but accidently shorted/fried). Need to tidy up and finalze cable management once I finish the intercooler/ducting project then can mark that off the list.
Clocked the turbo and piped the intercooler back in at it's behind the cage location. Filled in the missing roof scoop gap with corrugated plastic, duct taped it in place, threw together the crude corrugated plastic ducting I made, and I think we might finally have a winner for IC setup. It's not even fully sealed up yet, but only picked up 11f on a pull and it's quickly pulling itself back down to ambient. On track it's obviously going to see way higher demands, but at this point if we can just take the edge off the top end and maintain decent temps I'll be happy. I'm thinking this setup can do it, just need to make some better fitting/sealed ducting and shape/fiberglass the roof scoop. Think that'll be a project for tomorrow, but things are looking promising for the roof scoop.
I love this build…it’s cool to see something different and good to see you sticking with it.
Are you planning for GLTC @ CMP?
Thanks bud! Yep, plan is GLTC at CMP, so just trying to stay heads down and get this thing in some semblance of a sorted out state. Ready to do more driving/racing and less wrenching at this point.
07-07-2023, 10:29 AM
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