Out of curiosity I called and they do not sell it any longer as a single item.

 

I have a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the filter.

 

That sucks. I can see there being a pretty good market for them with people that want to switch from NA to NB throttle bodies when they go turbo, can’t imagine why they wouldn’t sell that part.

I’m using my NA throttle body with the air tube. You might consider going to whatever big box parts store you like (Napa is my go-to) and raiding their molded hoses for something that will fit. I found a pretty nice 3/4” hose that was molded into a Z, it would probably clear the sharp turn around the intercooler pipe at the top.

 

Went from this old piece of ****



To this--much better

Spent an eternity trying to figure out where to mount my oil cooler. I have a 25 row and the reality is its a big bitch and with leaving the A/C it sorta limited options so I settled on this as Sixshooter had success with.









Managed to make the custom AN hoses without too much fuss.



View from below



This is from above just to show there is space above it for air to flow. I can get my hand above it -- its tight but I think with some ducting I should get adequate flow across it. Im hoping with the 25 row there will be a little redundancy since its obviously not 100% ideal but sadly its all I could figure out for placement.



Got a box of wires and ****



Stared at this for a while--realized I don't know **** about wiring--swallowed sadness. Basically need to figure out how to rewire this thing for my new injectors, my wideband, and just generally make it not look like a pile o ****. Also need to figure out what comes off this thing and see if there is any other wiring to be done. Also need to wire the knock sensor and splice in the trigger wheel sensor since I added that. Progress Im sure will be slow because I really don't know this part at all...be patient because I want it to look nice but also don't want to **** it up royally. After that I think Im really close to trying to start the car. Have to plug in the MS and do a little work figuring out the racepak dash but once I get this harness figured out I think I can put fluids in the car and try and start her. Im getting pretty excited -- just have to struggle through this part. There are other little odds and ends but thats where Im at.

This part showed up too



Just waiting on the ABS sensor and then add that to the list of **** to figure out. It'll be fun and a bitch all at the same time.

 

I feel like I must be a little slow... what's the difference between these to pics?

 

lip

 

Oh yeah, look at that!

 

Such nice parts, and Amazon butt splices :(

 

Does it matter?

 

Do they make oil coolers that are very thin but long?

 

Maybe not but it is cleaner looking to solder and shrink wrap. Sometimes there is resistance at the butt connectors that isn't there with soldered connections.

 

I've seen multiple people state that you should never solder wires together on a car if you are doing it right. Crimp or pin is the right way. No idea why but these were all master mechanics or high end race shops in videos about wiring.

 

Maybe I am wrong. We've had some machinery that operates in signals measured in milliamps that have been affected negatively by the additional resistance of butt connectors rather than soldering.

 

It's because soldered connections will fatigue and break. I've seen them break on racecars before (more vibration than a Miata). You will also notice that Mazda does not solder any connections in their harness, that seems like a good indicator to me.

 

Crimp in the engine bay. Solder in the cockpit.

Engine bay temps can soften solder and create cold solder joints. Of course, if you do it to military specs, with a physical joint supplemented by solder, it isn't a problem, but no one does it to military standards.

 

I thought it was because OEMs were forced to use shitty tin solder instead of lead. There happen to be plenty of wires that are soldered to circuit boards in Toyotas and in all of Brain's Megasquirts.

 

These are expensive, but I really like them:

26-20 AWG TIN PLATED HEAT-SHRINK BUTT SPLICES from Aircraft Spruce

TonyMontana can afford them.

 

One of the most debated topics on the internet! In general, crimp > solder, because solder is brittle and can crack. But, in the amateur world, use whatever you are more skilled at. A good strain relieved and heat shrunk solder joint would be more reliable than a half assed crimp joint. But it's worth learning to crimp properly. I use uninsulated crimps with glue lined heat shrink like these. Can't get much more OEM looking!

 

tony Montana, steve dallas, when is Carmen sandiego making a build thread

 

Sorry to ignite a more general debate here. I was more or less comparing cheap, unknown heat-shrink butt splices with high-quality heat-shrink butt splices from TE, Molex, or 3M. The biggest difference is that nice closed-barrel splices have a strong brazed seam that is necessary for good performance with hand crimping tools.

There are many right ways to splice wires, many wrong ways, and lots of opinions. However, it’s generally reasonable to buy high quality versions of whatever method you’ve chosen and to use a good crimp tool. Plus, nice butt splices come in step-down versions perfect for changing wire gauges or fanning out a signal to multiple wires.

It's surprisingly inexpensive to have branded tooling to match, which gives good confidence of a high-quality result.

Molex heat-shrink butt splice crimp tool ($57)
Molex 22-18awg heat-shrink butt splice ($0.19)
Molex 16-14awg heat-shrink butt splice ($0.21)
Molex step-down 22-18/16-14awg heat-shrink butt splice ($0.46)