Caved to peer pressure and went back and wired the car for sequential ignition since its already in pieces and running the wires wasn't too difficult. Starting to figure out the wiring thing. The nice thing about making a Miata the first car I've built is that its pretty easy to figure out with a little reading and guidance. Thanks to all those who have fucked **** up in the past and found better ways so I don't have to suffer. Plan is to try and start it this week...just waiting for Sixshooter to be free so I can borrow his timing light and have another set of eyes look over the vital **** before cranking her over. As far as I can tell though she is ready to try and start...excited and nervous. Guess we shall see...

 

For what it's worth, I had the exact same issues fitting my TSE EFR6258 kit with a stock 5 speed trans. I had to cut about 1" off that parcel shelf looking bit behind the downpipe, a chunk out of the hood support bracket to avoid hitting the wastegate actuator, and I had to bang the **** out of my trans tunnel, and this is after rotating the downpipe about 20 times and grinding some excess material off the side of my NB transmission. It still hits under hard cornering. I've given up trying to fix it and just chocked it up to there being 10lbs of **** in a 5lbs bag, and truthfully my Racing Beat header hit in the same spot.

 

given to OP for being logical and realistic. I can't tell you how many times I moved a perfect-fit exhaust from one car to another of the exact same and had fitment issues. There's a lot variables to contend with even on a stock car.

 

That's a great perspective, +1 for you. Yes, I'm sure both of these products will be paired together many times in the future.

Don't mean to sidetrack your build thread but I'd like to be able to collaborate with you and Andrew a bit. The DP doesn't hit the trans body or adapter plate, but there is interference with the rear trans mount, correct? Does the pipe actually hit the mount, or is the mount just in the way of logical exhaust routing? If we can have a formula for making this combo work well together, that would be a win for everyone.

 

Would be the best setup out there hope this happens!!

 

On my car no matter what I would have had to cut a piece out of the shelf for the DP to make the turn off the turbo...Took 2 minutes with a grinder no big deal. The area in question is say mid BMW transmission. According to the install plans for the TSE DP you have to be able to rotate the pipe as close to the stock trans as possible so it doesn't contact the underside of the shelf or drivers side trans tunnel. The problem is where a stock transmission gets narrower after the housing the BMW transmission doesn't get as narrow so you can't rotate the pipe enough to not have a contact problem. Its really close but just not quite there. As far as the transmission mounts they are just flat in the way on mine. Either the DP would have to come lower under the car or I have to modify in a sorta U piece to go under the mount and back up to mate with a stock cat back. Is that clear?

 

Yup, that makes sense. Not much we can do about the body of the trans being wider. Does it seem like the DP could just be cut in the middle, rotate the lower section, and welded back up? If so, that's easy, and it would also be easy to fixture so they could be accurately modded for customers in the future.

 

Honestly from what people are reporting I think the easiest thing to do is just know going in that if you plan on adding this transmission to a TSE kit or doing them at the same time like me that you might either just have to forfeit your existing DP (or modify it). If you are doing it at the same time what I would have done is saved the money on Andrews DP (not that it isn't nice) and just ask for the flange. I think its reasonable when you go off the beaten path like this you just have to assume that you are going to have to fab some one off parts. My concern for you guys is that if there are these differences in cars that make 100% universal fitment a problem that you could end up with some irate people if you claim total bolt on and it isn't. Im close to 7000$ on your parts together so in miata land if you claim 100% universal fit at that price and it isn't it could be a nightmare. A disclaimer might be in order saying look...you add this transmission you'll have to have a custom downpipe and exhaust made. I honestly don't see that as a problem. I mean the DP from TSE is 675$ and Im reasonable certain I can get one made for that or less with a custom 3" exhaust added on for some amount of money. Having it done custom so you ensure a perfect fit I dont feel will cost me any more in the long run. Again no one's fault. I might be the first putting this **** with his kit so just a learning curve. From my experience thus far and from what I'm learning I think this would be the route I would go if I had to do it again.

 

This build is incredible. I've just binge read the 20 pages so far. Very much looking forward to the coming updates.

-Lew

 

excited for you and the first start.

 

So this happened


Fired almost immediately...only minor leaks to contend with...base timing set. Pretty excited.

 

"Video is unavailable"

 

Fixed I think

 

Congrats on the first start!

Is that metallic noise the downpipe clunking lol.

 

Correct...open down pipe with clank makes her sound like a beast

 

Various pictures taken today attached.

 

The fitment of the downpipe isn’t quite as bad as I expected, but I see where there could be improvements to make it fit better. Both straight sections need to be a tad longer. That should give a little more space from the body and transmission. I fully expected the shelf needing a trim.

 

The build just looks fantastic. How are you tensioning the air conditioning belt - just shimming the ac bracket with washers? I'm wanting to do the same thing, so any tips would be much appreciated��

 

i had the same ac setup, you just put washers on the 4 bolts that hold the compressor. usually takes 1 or 2 washers on each bolt to make the belt tight.

 

With the larger crank damper I have a perfect size belt...no shim required

Ryan G took a picture of the belt number I used