The tachout does not need to be adjusted. The Megasquirt will always output 1 pulse per ignition fire.

 

The heavy work on the engine is done:

Tomorrow is wiring day. Is there any reason I can't clip one of the EGR wires at the computer and at the connector, run that to the VVT solenoid, then grab power from anywhere, and be done? This is the part where I need to learn about small electronics. Also, can I do the same with VICS?

Thanks for the help.

 

Yes. That will work well. I run my tacho signal through the wires originally intended for the Evap purge solenoid.

 

Yes you can clip the egr wire and run the violet/yellow wire back through it. The yellow wire should be going to a positive wire. I wired it into the same wire as the cam and crank sensor. At the MS side you might not even need to cut the wire. It might be possible to hook up a wire inside the MS and then route it to the VVT Tuner, or else yes clipping it should work fine.

You can use other EGR wires and free ones back to the ECU for VICS. As to if the other VICS wire goes to 12v or ground I am not sure.

 

Thanks. this might end up being not so bad. This thing might run on Wednesday as planned.

VICS goes to a 12v, I brain farted.

 

I need a square-top for this bitch.

 

Yes you can.


Any reason why not getting a Civic manifold and having Abe mate it to the 99 head flange? Might be a little cheaper, and even if it does not help it will give us concrete data about it. Hell if it does not work, I might buy it off you to try against my BEGI IM.

 

Wow, you did it bro. I thought it was just an idea you had.

In for ecomodded Miata. You could probably get past 40mpg highway with the 3.63s, aero, and a hot air intake.

 

Some little aero mods are still on the table, but next year when I have more time. After this, I get to put MS2 in my track car, corner balance, align, then track the **** out of it and get ready for TTC in 2013.

 

Make him make it an MS3.

I checked over you cam and crank wiring and it looks correct. I will check on my car in the morning and verify it again though.

 

I want Green Glory drivable now, not later. I don't have time to wait since his MS3 stuff isn't ready.

Thank you very much for going through this.

 

For the VVT I used the +12V from the injector harness.

-Raj

 

Do pins 8 and 15 both need to go to the solenoid, or can I run only 15?

I've read through the guide here, but I'm making an assumption and that's dangerous.

 

Pin 15 is just a handy 12V source. You can source +12V to the OCV from anywhere convenient. Pin 15 is the critical connection. The VVTuner pulses the ground side of the OCV.

 

I just shipped (4) PNP MS3xes this morning... just sayin'

 

I had a productive day. I started at 9am, swapped the rear end, cleaned and tightened up the PPF, removed the 01 alternator which I forgot and replaced it with the 94 alternator, added trans oil, gear oil, engine oil, water, discovered this engine had a turbo on it and picked-up a plug for the old turbo oil return in the pan, picked-up a new O2 bung plug, replaced all hoses aside from the lower rad hose, new belts, added the new SS clutch line, and I think that's it. Today was basically all the nit-pick mechanical stuff. Tomorrow I will get up early to start the wiring and probably drive it if my wire stuff is right. For now, I'm going to a bar.

Things left to do:
Bolt the wheels on
Bleed the clutch
Wire CKP, CMP, coils, VVT
Cut one wire at the computer, move it to the VVTuner

 

Thanks.

 

Fixed

 

Thanks Ben. How well do the standard settings usually work for most users? Do you set it up prior to shipping?

 

What is this "****" I've heard that VVTuner doesn't output a clean-enough signal for my Greco MS2+++? Now I'm paranoid and I don't care to pull this head off the car.