I flushed the rad/head the other day. A lot of gunk and rust came out. Before this, the car would run at exactly half on the stock temp gauge. Today it is running a needle or two under half, so it's already better. I've always tracked with the factory under tray and did not have heat problems after getting the aluminum rad even on really hot days.

I was supposed to drop off the car at a welder to get my IC relocated and piping rerouted today, but he didn't have time to do it yet. I'm doing this in order to make a nice duct for the heat exchangers. He's also making a new brace for my dump tube.

I'm hoping these few things will keep me from backtracking, as I have a lot of other things that I plan on doing to take this beyond the beyond.

 

Local guy finally had time to do my work. Got some nice IC piping done, relocated the IC to sit with the rad, and created a real brace for my dumptube which broke. I wanted to buy a shiny new IC from him, but he insisted that I use mine, mehs.

I also mounted all the hardware for the W/M injection kit. Just have to buy some extra tubing since I put the pump and tank in the trunk, no homo.

 

I know it's nothing spectacular, but I've been searching for factory red top for a very long time

 

Car looks fantastic. Its got show, its got go.

What kinda rad you running?

 

Thanks!

It's a Haste aluminum rad, 53mm iirc. Picked it up really cheap from a local guy abandoning his NB, couldn't wait for the TSE one to come out.

 

Damn sexual build you have going on here.

 

Gays who complain of overheating issues without ducting should be banned - I was one of them. First time out with race tape and cardboard ducting and I can't even hit half on the gauge. Here right now making an example of a Viper

Ran into another Miata





Ricer Fridays

 

Yesterday I got too excited after passing a new Viper on my first lap. I forgot that my tires were still cold and had to go off. I flew over a curb and slammed down nose first into the grass. All I remember seeing was a windshield full of grass. It took me a second to realize what I had done because it was so violent. Only damage sustained that I could see was a ripped out front fender liner and someone's lawn hanging off my rear subframe. I was worried about rim and tire damage. Any other damage I should specifically check for when I put it on stands?

I can't wait to start/finish this spare engine. The Vipers could barely start pulling away from me in the straights above 160kph. The Ferraris seemed to slowly walk away. I can't imagine how they feel when you guys with 300+whp pass them in the straights.

The green one is the guy I passed before my mishap. The red and black on on the left is the one that put up a decent fight, but the marshall flagged him to let me pass.


I think this was the red Viper, my doppelganger. Hard to tell if he really opened it up on the straights after reading Wiki on this thing.

 

I have a time attack July 8th, so I went to the track to get some practice last night. A couple guys commented that I stay out there for very long sessions and ask how my car isn't over heating. Cardboard/race tape ducting FTMFW!

I'm able to pass a stock C5 Z06 in the straights pretty easily without him letting off and was slightly faster than a 240sx race car at 310whp 2600#. My guess is that I'm at about 260-280whp. Last time I weighed the thing, I was sitting around 2300#.

 

Well today is the saddest day of my life. 225whp on a dynojet. 42 degrees Celsius ambient. I feel like fail. To top it off, my GoPro files are corrupt. At least I got to operate the dyno...

Was expecting a lot more considering the cars I can pass. I guess it's time to finish this spare engine. 10psi (0.7bar)...is this all I should expect? WG line connected straight to manifold.



Dip in the beginning is from holding the brake while WOT.

 

It's not about numbers if you are passing people...

 

According to Flyin' Miata and what I've read from others around the forum you can expect approx. 250-260hp at 2.0bar. You're running 1.7bar.

(255hp/2.0bar) * 1.7bar = 217hp. Add to that a hp-robbing 42C and a result below 200hp is what I would have expected. You're doing considerably better.

 

The torque seems really low. I would have expected more from 10psi with a 2871. What's your timing map like?

 

I know it's not the numbers, but you know how it is.

I didn't pull this off my ECU right now, but pretty sure this is the current map. The torque numbers are what hurt me.

 

You can add at least 2* above 150kPa; more if you run premium gas or E85 or if you use WI. Also, I don't know if this makes sense with the adaptronic, but make sure your base timing is set correctly. Ie make sure that you get ~14* at idle with all loads off.

 

Starting to realize now that 10psi really isn't that much.

I usually run 94 if available, and 91 if not. I have WM all hooked up and pumping, but I have disconnected the line from the intake. I still haven't had enough time to experiment with it. I was going to use mostly water for safety margin and not increase timing. I've put the nozzle after the IAT. I'll add another 2* after this weekend and possibly hook up the WM for the event.

My timing at idle with no load is hovers around 14*.

 

That's a real conservative map, definitely room for 2* more.
Also why is your 0-26kpa running less advance than 40-80. Kinda weird

 

Yeah, I really didn't want to over do it for track abuse. 0-26 is mostly untouched because I don't think I ever see those levels

 

True, but for those rare moments that you do, there's no reason not to be running close to 35*

 

Ran my fastest times today at the time attack. The vette in the image below was 2 seconds faster, the 350z was a race car. At the end of the day I thought I popped my motor, but after some troubleshooting it looks like a dead MAP sensor. I was able to limp it home by shorting the circuit and running with a static 85kpa. Not the way I wanted it to end. Putting my new motor in would be a lot more satisfying.

Is it a common thing for the GM 3 Bar MAP sensor to fail?