Shit just got real. Project FML dash organization has begun. I don't know how far down I will be stripping this B yet. But I will say I'm glad I decided to do this. I'm a bit overwhelmed right now with the massive amount of wires, but once I start mapping it out and sorting through what is what it should be good.

My goal is simplicity, and simple looking. I want to eliminate everything that is used, and tidy everything up so every wire has it's place.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375223935

ooo door bars. how do you like them?

Love them. Great place to put my hand when getting in the car lol.

Yikes! You're in deep.

Can't wait to see what you're doing.

When I see my car with the dash out I get excited and nervous at the same time. The wiring REALLY needed to be sorted out. I have a general plan of how I want things to end up. Hopefully I'll have it back up and running by the end of the weekend.

I'm about to swap my cracked POS dash out for a clean one I've got in my garage. How hard was it to pull this thing out? Do you forsee any issues getting it back in? Think i can do the complete swap in say, 4-5 hours on the weekend? I'm not going to "tidy" up the wiring like you are really, just a quick swapout.

Glad to see you doing work on this thing. neat.

It was really quite quick pulling it out. I'd imagine that it will take a bit longer to put in because you actually have to line things up.

I used this:
http://www.miata.net/garage/DashRmv_89_93.pdf

It was quite accurate minus a few things, but if you use logic it's easy to figure out.

I had mine out in about 1.5 hours in 105 degree heat (lots of breaks).

Add another 30-45 minutes to pull the bar off the dash and swap to the new one. And probably 2 hours for reinstall.

This might sound stupid and obvious but make sure you have a really good screw driver and one that fits those screws perfectly or it's really a pain. There are about 50 screws you will probably have to remove. Luckily they are pretty much the same so you don't have to keep track of which ones went where, just where they went.

lol at strings through the vents; I pull them out with my teeth like a real man.*
































* not really, i just pull them out.

I just used some needle nose pliers and got a manly grip and tugged them out. There was definitely no way they would be coming out by hand.

Real men NEVER pull out.

true; SMART men pull out. Real men never pull out, then have huge family trees.

Can't have a baby in a mans ass. :giggle:

lol stop tainting my build thread with your love stories :giggle:

How difficult is it to get a MS working with a different year miata than what it was built for? Is it a matter of connecting the cars harness to the connector of whatever year the MS was built for?

sounds pretty difficult doesn't it?



the honest answer is: it depends.

NM

I'll probably just end up actually building one of these damn things. It's about time I actually do work. I'm assuming that if I have a 93 with a 99 1.8 that I should still make one for a 90-93 harness..?

correct.

when I'm building a 90-05 MS3x, there's little difference between the ECU itself; it's all in the harness. The only real exception being an additional flyback for the VVT and the alternator controller.

But I wouldn't have been able to plug in say y8s's ms3x into my harness and run because of the way he built and modded it.

so that's why I said depends.

Gotcha. Well I have to decide if and when I want to upgrade from the MSPNP. I feel like if I am pushing for 300whp it would be good to have some extra features.


This thread is about to move like craaaaay.

Plastidiping the dash bar.

Removing parts of the dash.

Relocating MSPNP to behind center of dash.

Rewire errything not part of the stock harness with connectors, heatshrink, and solder.

Move how the wires route from the interior to the engine bay so that the wires/vac lines go through the holes from the heater core and A/C.

Apply sound deadening to certain spots.

Move the routing for the water injection a bit.

Installing a fixed USB mount after the USB/serial converter for the MSPNP.

Remove or hide excess OEM harness wires.

Remove surface rust and plastidip certain interior spots.

And probably more.

i has a spare ms2 cpu for sale.

The words 'rust' and 'plastidip' should never be used in the same sentence. In fact, some day people will wake up and realize plastic dip shouldn't be used on anything that isn't uber-temporary.

SEM 'Trim Paint' is da bomb when it comes to:

A) adhesion/durability
B) looking OEM (has a proper satin look for interior parts).
C) quick flash time

Use SEM etching primer underneath.

-Zach