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I'm looking specifically at the exhaust running within the tunnel cooking legs and other parts of both occupants. And the spot immediately under the seat might melt the jellybeans in your pocket.
Got it and thanks for the input! Just ordered Summit's 100ft x 2" lava heat wrap. Should be enough to wrap both sides from the engine back minus the muffler. Do you think the exhaust wrap will be enough to tone down the heat a bit?
It helps but a metal shield with an air gap is ideal. That is why the OEMs do it. The shield can be on the exhaust or mounted on the chassis, whichever is more convenient.
Exhaust is finally done. Massive progress on my stainless welding from beginning to end. The H-pipe ended up being a bit of a frankenstein tetris experiment because of the location, but came out good and I'm happy with the big collection chamber. Mounts to the frame on the muffler and sidepipe ends to keep it in place. I'll be using some specialized high temp rubber washers from Mcmasterr Carr to keep it from melting the powdercoat, but the exhaust is rock solid and doesn't move at all. I need to get the engine running before I wrap the exhaust as I need to be able to find any leaks. I still need to get the new shifter from V8R and mount the fuel/brake lines in the tunnel. After that I'll be wrapping up a few small things like the ecu mount and then it goes off to the shop to finish the wiring.
Oh, and thanks for the feedback sixshooter. Just ordered some high temp heat shielding from summit for the tunnel and rear floor panels where the exhaust runs.
A bit of a change of direction on the wiring. I talked to the guys at Rywire and I'm getting a chassis harness from them and their PDM12 and doing this myself. One of my big concerns was how long it would take to figure out all the wires and what goes where. But once I created the spreadsheet and got everything on it, it only took a few hours to map everything out. The Rywire universal chassis harness is awesome too because it comes with everything I need already wired up. They also confirmed it is very easy to shorten if I need to since the car is fairly small. PDM12 and Harness should be here friday. Will post more updates as I get into the install process this weekend.
If you aren't familiar with the PDM12, it is a pretty crazy little box. "This solid state 12ch Power Distribution Module is a state of the art fuseless system that distributes up to 15amps per channel." You can bridge channels for high power items like the fuel pump too.
Looking for some advice on running the battery cables.
Positive Battery Cable:
What does the positive battery cable need to connect to directly?
I'm assuming a run to the alternator, starter and engine harness. Is there a preferred order where I can run to the the starter, then from starter to alternator and then to the engine harness?
Negative Battery Cable:
I'm doing a short run from the battery to the disconnect switch and then to the chassis.
Where does the negative battery cable need to connect to on the LFX engine block? I never saw the engine in the car, so I'm not sure how it was setup from the factory.
We ran 2awg to starter, 8awg from starter (crimped in same copper lug as 2awg) to main fuse, 8awg from alt to other side of main fuse. I'd recommend 6awg but I couldn't find it in txl. 2awg from battery to body, then body to block. Just bolted it on, no specific location on block.
We ran 2awg to starter, 8awg from starter (crimped in same copper lug as 2awg) to main fuse, 8awg from alt to other side of main fuse. I'd recommend 6awg but I couldn't find it in txl. 2awg from battery to body, then body to block. Just bolted it on, no specific location on block.
Awesome, thanks!
Do the starter and alternator have ground wires going to them? If so, are you just connecting them to the block?
Negative on ground wires. Alternator has the main 8awg stud and 2 wires to the ECU in a plug. Starter has the starter lug and a.. I wanna say 14-ish gauge purple wire for the starter solenoid that goes to your key. No grounds.
Edit: This is our positive battery cable at the starter. Took a large-ish copper lug, crimped it with the 8awg and 2awg together, heatshrunk with triple-wall shrink, and then put it through split loom and heat barrier. Also put it in a vise and bent it over so it wouldn't run into the exhaust. Copper is plenty soft.
Last edited by gooflophaze; 07-26-2019 at 02:03 AM.
In the middle of wiring, so please excuse the mess. Got the headers wrapped. Heat shielded the entire tunnel and underneath where the exhaust runs. Fabbed up a custom ecu mount because I couldn't figure out where the hell to put it. Got the E85 sensor installed with a DSX tuning double ended quick connect adapter, battery cables and battery are done, RYwire PDM12 is in, and V8R got me a kick *** MGW shifter they built for this application (should be for sale soon). The shifter is drool worthy and it is a ****** tank! When I bought my trans it didn't come with the clevis pin for the selector rod to shifter and I can only get it from GM by paying $134 for the whole shifter assembly. So I'm taking the selector rod to a friend on monday to see if he'll make me a custom clevis pin.
Question about the Miata (99) white/red wire from the ignition... if I am reading the wiring diagram right, the white/red wire is receiving constant power. Is that correct?
Okay, so it looks like the white/red wire on the ignition does indeed get battery power and as you activate a switch with the key, it sends power to that circuit. (I think!?). The Rywire PDM12 unit is ground switch activated. How do I get the miata ignition system to activate a ground switch? I am a bit lost here, so any help would be very grateful!
Looks good! For sure, you can make up a clevis, or substitute the right size bolt for the shifter; $134. just to move on from that is BS. On your question on grounds, I like to have a heavy gauge ground going from chassis to one of the starter bolts, like a mount to the bell housing, of engine/bell housing bolt, because when cranking you are pulling a ****-ton of amps, and providing a nice fat ground close to the starter helps make it's life easier (than a electrically long path around the engine bay, chassis back to the battery. Going overboard to have the engine, chassis, and battery well grounded to each other stops a lot of potential electrical problems from developing. Yes, the white/red wire has constant 12 V, and feeds the Ing. Sw. with power. The Ing. Sw. then passes it on in switched mode.
I'm afraid I need more context of what you're trying to do -
The ignition switch has 3 (4) states - ig1, ig2, app, and start. When you move the switch to start, IG2 and APP don't pass power, just IG1 (to save power for the starter motor).
Looks good! For sure, you can make up a clevis, or substitute the right size bolt for the shifter; $134. just to move on from that is BS. On your question on grounds, I like to have a heavy gauge ground going from chassis to one of the starter bolts, like a mount to the bell housing, of engine/bell housing bolt, because when cranking you are pulling a ****-ton of amps, and providing a nice fat ground close to the starter helps make it's life easier (than a electrically long path around the engine bay, chassis back to the battery. Going overboard to have the engine, chassis, and battery well grounded to each other stops a lot of potential electrical problems from developing. Yes, the white/red wire has constant 12 V, and feeds the Ing. Sw. with power. The Ing. Sw. then passes it on in switched mode.
Thanks!
Ended up running a short fat 2awg ground cable from the chassis to the upper back of the block. Battery to chassis is the same, short fat 2awg.
If the PDM12 power distribution system I'm using requires a switched ground from the ignition, can I just hook the white/red wire to a ground? Not sure if it is that simple.
It is basically a solid state power distribution module. The instructions for the P12 say that the inputs from switches are ground activated.
The miata ignition switch positions all send power, not ground. So how do I activate the P12 unit's inputs with a ground and ideally keep the miata key ignition?
I may also be completely misunderstanding this. Not quite sure yet.
"Ground activated" means that you have the input wire from rywire - switch - ground. When the switch is closed, the power is enabled on the rywire output. This is similar to how ECU's provide the ground for a relay. But man, that looks like an expensive solution for what a relay does..
The other way to switch a ground to positive input is .. with a relay. 4 terminals on a typical relay - 85 86 and 87 and 30. 85 and 86 power an electromagnet that closes a switch between 30 and 87. To change the polarity - you ground 85 (or 86), run the positive to 86 (or 85) - that will close the switch that you can run between ground (on 30 or 87) and the rywire input (87 or 30).
Last edited by gooflophaze; 08-10-2019 at 04:41 PM.
07-11-2019, 03:08 PM
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