Originally Posted by czubaka
(Post 958208)
Leonid, thanks for the info! Are you running a return-less system with that 99 fuel rail?
Joel, treadstone has a fuel pump wiring kit for $30 that I may try to avoid any power issues. People just don't realize that some good hose can change the world... |
Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 958454)
No, I have a return system. If you bolt the 90-97 NA FPR to the 99 fuel rail (bolt-on) it becomes a return fuel rail. I only run the 99 fuel rail because I have a 99 head - there is nothing special about the 99 fuel rail.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 958462)
There are 2 NB fuel rails, I'm assuming this is the one with the pulsation damper on the FRONT of the rail, right by the throttle body?
didn't know there are 2 different NB fuel rails. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 958151)
I seem to remember where someone tested a factory NB pump and it had trouble keeping the pressure up @ 7k running N/A with stock injectors.
Fuel Pump - Miata Turbo FAQ Vlad is right, the $80 wally pump is a no brainier. The 190HP should be fine, and IIRC the amprage draw isn't that much of a hit compared to stock. On a side note, in regards to the 90-97 cars.. "Other than that, you don't need one. If you have an aftermarket ECU, the stock pump more than enough to support 300rwhp with the stock regulator" That being said, I agree with the others that OP needs a new pump. All this talk about pumps has got me looking at a walbro255 upgrade for my new 1.8 build as well. |
Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 958470)
yes.
didn't know there are 2 different NB fuel rails.
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 958474)
Interesting.. It looks like the 99 pump is a total POS.
On a side note, in regards to the 90-97 cars.. "Other than that, you don't need one. If you have an aftermarket ECU, the stock pump more than enough to support 300rwhp with the stock regulator" That being said, I agree with the others that OP needs a new pump. All this talk about pumps has got me looking at a walbro255 upgrade for my new 1.8 build as well. |
So if i get you guys, i'm better off with a return system?
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Return is better but its not required at <300whp. If your waiting until next winter before you build your engine then it wouldn't hurt to wait but if you have time to kill just go with it. I'm running a 255 with a returnless system on my 99 and even though i'm only pushing 250whp, I've never had any problems with it. Btw I love the way your build is going and it looks great!
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Originally Posted by cowboys647
(Post 958697)
Return is better but its not required at <300whp. If your waiting until next winter before you build your engine then it wouldn't hurt to wait but if you have time to kill just go with it. I'm running a 255 with a returnless system on my 99 and even though i'm only pushing 250whp, I've never had any problems with it. Btw I love the way your build is going and it looks great!
The time i don't have it, i have to make it :bang: |
Deatschwerks 700cc or RX-8 450cc
i'm affraid the 700cc could be too much for my setup? |
There is no such thing as too much. Get the 700's!
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Even knowing that i'll keep stock 60psi fuel pressure?
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Buy once and get the biggest fucking injectors possible.
Also get a bigass fuel pump. I thoroughly recommend nothing less than two Bosch 044 pumps in tank each feeding their own A1000 pump. Each pump should go to each end of the fuel rail. This should be enough fuel for 300hp. |
i'm affraid that the 700cc will be hard to tune idle/cruise.
because i don't plan more than 10-12psi for this summer even next summer. The walbro 255 is on the list. Because keeping the 60psi stock pressure, the 450cc would be about 525cc, wich would be enough for my setup. the 700cc@60psi would be almost at 800cc wich would be way overkill. i get the buy it once/buy it big, but i don't want to have problem tuning fuel next summer, i already had problem last summer with idle drop, lean and rich spot(voodoo box) |
You should have no issues with a 1000cc injector IF:
Having said that, I'll be running FIC 650cc EV14 injectors on my car, because:
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 903380)
If you are looking for budget injectors, the yellow RX-8 injectors are decent, certainly a lot better than the RX-7s! However, I ALWAYS recommend the FIC 650cc EV14s. Yes they are expensive, but they never cease to amaze me, as they completely transform the way the car idles and behaves in general.
Originally Posted by cymx5
(Post 944411)
For the money and stability of EV14's, the cost is easily paid back in the ease of tuning them. I'll say it over and over. They idled my supercharged 1.8l with 9lb flywheel better than stock. That's how stable they are.
Notice: EV14 1150cc, Megasquirt MS2, idling :2cents: There are very few people I will blindly take advice from on this forum. Reverant is one of them as is Savington (Trackspeed Engineering) and Emilio700 (949Racing). Rev builds ECUs and Sav & Emilio race the shit out of these cars pretty much for a living. Do a couple of searches and see what they (and everyone else) recommend and then spend your dollars accordingly. |
Wow! thanks man!
Cause i'm searching for power, but mostly to have a stable, good running car. Budget is one thing, but i'm ready to pay more for the good stuff! By low latency you mean low resistance/low Impedance ? |
lower deadtimes = low latency = faster responding injectors = more precise control. This is what makes the EV14 so desirable.
Speculation: High impedance / low impedance shouldn't matter, provided your ECU can properly drive them. The Miata uses high impedance/resistance (saturated) injectors, so that's what I purchased. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 962679)
lower deadtimes = low latency = faster responding injectors = more precise control. This is what makes the EV14 so desirable.
Speculation: High impedance / low impedance shouldn't matter, provided your ECU can properly drive them. The Miata uses high impedance/resistance (saturated) injectors, so that's what I purchased. |
I started to gather some parts
All still in Order/shipping. -Reverant MS3 -FIC 650cc Injectors -Walbro 255 -Turbosmart Boost controller -STRI DSD-SLM Fuel pressure gauge I still hesitate for fuel rails, FM kit or M-Tuned. Both cost around the same if i go with braided fuel lines for the M-tuned. I also have to make a pod to fit the FP Gauge, wich i think is going to go under the radio. |
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Why fuel rail?
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