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I'm running an FD alt. There's a slightly longer belt you can run with it that makes it a bolt on. DM me your address and I'll send you one out (I ended up with 3 of them, don't ask me how). It comes with a 5 rib pulley on it, don't bother trying to swap it out for the 4 rib miata one (if you swap it over it's the wrong offset), just run the 5 rib one it comes with and it works great (and the belt just rides on the outter 4 ribs). Good solid voltage out of mine, I'm running a cool suit, a PI dash, and big fuel pump etc so figured it would be worth the upgrade.
Ricardo knows his **** about the CELs, he configured mine and they pretty much never throw false positives. To big props to him on that.
I just got back into the swing of life after my trip and went through this thread, and holy **** have you been at it man. I'm super sorry to hear this thing isn't dialed yet even after all your efforts, and I'm on the edge of my seat to see what fixes it. I'm sure you will get to the bottom of it.
That said, seeing this scares me away from anything k power industries is selling, seeing multiple folks with this same issue I'd think they would get their engineers on this, or at least have some more ideas for you. Pretty unacceptable to sell a kit for that kind of price and have no solution to a major car disabling issue.
I'm running an FD alt. There's a slightly longer belt you can run with it that makes it a bolt on. DM me your address and I'll send you one out (I ended up with 3 of them, don't ask me how). It comes with a 5 rib pulley on it, don't bother trying to swap it out for the 4 rib miata one (if you swap it over it's the wrong offset), just run the 5 rib one it comes with and it works great (and the belt just rides on the outter 4 ribs). Good solid voltage out of mine, I'm running a cool suit, a PI dash, and big fuel pump etc so figured it would be worth the upgrade.
Ricardo knows his **** about the CELs, he configured mine and they pretty much never throw false positives. To big props to him on that.
I just got back into the swing of life after my trip and went through this thread, and holy **** have you been at it man. I'm super sorry to hear this thing isn't dialed yet even after all your efforts, and I'm on the edge of my seat to see what fixes it. I'm sure you will get to the bottom of it.
That said, seeing this scares me away from anything k power industries is selling, seeing multiple folks with this same issue I'd think they would get their engineers on this, or at least have some more ideas for you. Pretty unacceptable to sell a kit for that kind of price and have no solution to a major car disabling issue.
Yo, good to hear dude! hadn't seen much chatter on this site about the alternators but it seems like a pretty straightforward swap. I've been cutting and hacking parts for this car nonstop, why not an alternator next? I'll take you up on one of those belts for sure! Lemme pay for shipping and buy you a coffee for your time/trouble.
Hey man it's all good, too. Honestly, having the car down for so many weekends in a row made me super grateful even to just get it out in the canyons again. It's got some solid hiccups that need ironing out, but I'll get it there eventually!
Yeah, no joke. In one of Greg's videos you sent over, he overlays an email screenshot for a second referencing four or five other NA/NBs with Getrag/ZF transmission swaps and Miata rear ends that were all experiencing the same vibrations as his (and our) car(s) have. That was four years ago. You'd think they'd have come up with a disclaimer or changed something up to accommodate said issue. At any rate, at least we're making progress. All the guys I've spoken to have taken time to offer suggestions and feedback, and have been receptive to my requests for credit/the replacement driveshaft etc. Maybe there's been some turnover and most of the team there is new and hasn't dealt with this issue before. I dunno. We're still talking about low-production racecar parts and at the end of the day I'm the only one that touches/diagnoses my car. Hopefully Rich gets one of those sweet new alu driveshafts they're making next and it fixes his car. Then I can just snag one and be done with it. I'm gonna run the gauntlet next and probably swap in a Getrag rear end if I can't find anything else since it seems like that's solved a number of other peoples' concerns with vibration on this setup.
Ordered the wrong DB9 cable on accident but the USB port on my Megasquirt started working again. If things keep going this way, all the issues on this car should magically disappear by the weekend!
I just sold my 4.3 torsen and the cost of the Getrag cost roughly what I got for it. Figured I could justify it to myself as a wash. It's a 3.91 LSD out of an '09 Pontiac Solstice. Still gotta wait to hear back from KPower regarding the aluminum driveshaft solution and decide what I wanna do. The Getrag swap has a 30-day lead time since the axles are made to order from their supplier (not the same supplier as their driveshafts luckily).
The Megasquirt communication issue ended up just being the USB cable itself. Mine was on the fritz on the way to work yesterday. Grabbed a spare USB that was lying in a dusty parts bin and it solved the issue.
My alternator voltage isn't out of spec but it seems to be jumping up and down quite a bit between 14-14.5v during steady cruise. I don't know how steady it was before because I never had a reason to check. I dropped the check engine light battery voltage sensitivity temporarily in TS and it went away, but I still figure something is happening with the charging system that wasn't happening before. Haven't had much time to diag or give it much thought yet. Nate is sending me out an FD-compatible Miata alternator belt (bless his dear soul) and I plan to swap in an FD alternator anyway (amps baby, AMPS!)
So I poked around on TunerStudio tonight and noted that my key-on engine-off battery voltage is reading 13.3. I don’t have my voltmeter on me but I don’t believe that to be correct. I’m gonna drive the car to work tomorrow and check there. If my battery calibration in TS is off, it means my dead times are all wrong, and I’ll have to rework both of my VE tables lol.
I poked around a bit, though, and found that two of the grounds going to my head were only slightly past snug, and the ring terminals were able to move around a little bit. I torqued em down properly. No change in the voltage reading, but maybe they were causing the voltage fluctuation in TS that was setting my check engine light.
Also my new serial cable came with a mini CD-ROM. Anyone got a use for this? I’ll ship it to you for free
Dude you’re joking. F*ck man that’s awful, I hope your guys’ cars get found. Did they break into your shop or steal the trailer?
Im out for gridlife. My car will be sitting right in the sweet spot of the vibration most of the way around WSIR. Bummed, but at least I have a car in my garage.
it was a combo of bad luck/bad decisions. We’ve left the trailer out front before, but usually with our 2022 f-450, this time it was a hooked up to a ‘99 international which are incredibly easy to steal, apparently. We’ve probably done the same thing before, but it wasn’t stolen, and when our luck ran out, it had two of our cars in it.
Don't know if I can type words that'll express how gutted I am for you guys. That sucks so bad man. Were the cars insured for their total worth? Not that you'll be getting all of those man hours back...
KOEO power at the injectors is 13.2v, as TunerStudio indicated. Won't have to change my voltage calibrations and retune my fuel tables. Pretty happy about that.
From AntiGravity's website: "The Antigravity Battery normal voltage is 13.2V. The battery will read up to 14.7V immediately after charging. The normal operating range will read between 13.3-14.5V. After a few hours it will self-balance to the 13.3-7 range which is its normal state of charge."
Tightening the grounds last night fixed my CEL concerns. Voltage readings while at cruise are more stable and I didn't get a CEL on the way to work this morning. Take the little wins where you can get em.
@curly that is horrible! So sorry that happened. I wish you all the best in some sort of recovery.
@Z_WAAAAAZ Im glad you found the loose grounds and that fixed it. Interesting about the antigravity battery, I had no idea their resting voltage was that high.
Im glad you found the loose grounds and that fixed it. Interesting about the antigravity battery, I had no idea their resting voltage was that high.
Right? I was surprised to find that the resting voltage was so high. Guess I should've looked that up when I installed it. I have little experience with lithium batteries. Was going to go lithium for the dual battery system in my van, but I had a number of 800cca AGM batteries laying around and figured I'd run those instead of spending $1,000+ on new ones. Little thing's pretty wild, it's got its own internal BMS too.
A couple more updates since last week. The driveline vibration is still present. I remembered that I had a shorter passenger side motor mount laying around so I installed it to see if moving the motor/trans more to the passenger side even further would lessen the vibration. On the lift it didn't make any difference so I I pulled it out and installed the original mount again. I also drained my diff fluid, which came out black even though it was only two months old with one track day on it. Kinda concerning. Didn't find any ferrous particles in it, though. Refilled it with new fluid and I'm gonna drain it again this week to see if it's turning black again already. I don't think its likely, but I'm wondering if the vibration damaged the pinion/bearing or something else in the diff, given the vibration can be felt exclusively there at this point.
That being said, I took the car out to the canyons again yesterday and the vibration when I got it up to 100 on the freeway seemed even a little less severe than before. It still comes on at around 90mph regardless of gear, and still feels like it's gonna damage something if I push it past there, but did feel a little smoother yesterday. Maybe I'm moving in the right direction. KPower says they have a batch of updated aluminum driveshafts landing this week that are supposed to quell the vibration concern that some customers are having. @richbobby and I have the same vibration issue and have been conferring with each other in a separate thread I made here https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...ration-109305/ and he's going to be receiving his driveshaft this week or next. I've spoken to the guys at KPower and they've been understanding towards the issue. I expressed interest in getting a credit for my original out-of-round driveshaft to put towards a Getrag swap kit and Jamie told me that could absolutely be done. Depending on if the shaft solves Rich's vibration issue, I'm either going to get my hands on one of the updated shafts or order up a Getrag swap kit. Lead time on the Getrag kit is 30 days so if I go that route my track season is basically over (I'd rather grab my MTB and head up to the mountains for the weekend than hit the track once it gets to be 100+ in the desert). Not too bummed, though, since the car is at least still driveable in the canyons.
Last night was fun. Ran into one of my buddies with a JDM D15-equipped CRX and we did some runs together. Watched a kid nearly crash his (or maybe daddy's) M4 at a popular turnout trying to do donuts for TikTok. Ate some Raising Canes. No complaints here.
While waiting for results on Rich's vibration with the new driveshaft, I decided I don't have enough going with this car already and am going to tackle another project on it. I still have no speedo reading, and was originally going to order a digital to speedo cable converter box to drive the speedo.
After doing some additional research, though, I've realized that I can just feed a speed signal to my Megasquirt and make a digital dash setup for about half the cost of the cable box. I ordered everything (I think) I need to make a DIY Raspberry Pi digital dash and will be building it pretty much to BeavisMotorsport's spec. Going to be using a 7" display and will run VSS signal off of the tone ring on my right rear axle. I'm planning to leave my factory fuel gauge intact and mount it next to the Pi as I don't have fuel level input to my MS currently (and I'm lazy). As an added bonus, I'll be able to make tune changes on TS directly from the dash via a mini wireless keyboard, and will be able to datalog while the car is on track. Fun!
I'm running one as well, not as a main dash but in my double din for gauges and on the fly tuning/tweaks. I just realized I think I never posted any details about it in my thread. But here goes. Mines an older Pi 3 B+ (built it in 2019), with this build list:
Do you know or use Linux at all? If not, there might be some tricky parts, but if you know basic ssh and directory navigation it's easy as pi (see what I did there). I'm still running the default raspbian OS, IIRC I used rc.local to boot tunerstudio on power-on, and setup the dashboard to load by default in TS as fullscreen. From key-on to dashboard gauges coming on I think it's about ~45 seconds, which as a dash would be a little slow for my tastes so I'd probably optimize things if I were going that route. First of all the latest/greatest Pi would greatly speed things up, but I'd also run a more trimmed down OS, or optimize raspbian/recompile with a minimal/optimized kernel to speed things up.
The mausberry-circuits is critical for using GPIO to power off the unit when switched power is removed, or else you'll end up corrupting the OS with repeated improper shutdowns.
but if you know basic ssh and directory navigation it's easy as pi (see what I did there)
This. This is pure brilliance.
Perfect of you to chime in! I remember you mentioning last week that you had a PiDash in your car. I should've thought to ask you a couple questions then.
I have absolutely no previous experience using Linux, but am pretty confident in my abilities to copy Beavis's procedure regarding loading up the OS and setting up commands. Loading up TS in fullscreen automatically when the car's turned on is my main goal, and seems pretty manageable given the instructions I've watched/read.
I got myself a 4GB Pi4B (probably overkill), generic 7" touchscreen, that same keyboard you listed, a SanDisk ExtremePro 32GB MicroSD, a little 12v fan, a 12/24" 1/8" thick ABS sheet to mount the assembly onto, and all the associated cables, power supply converter, and card reader needed. Are you running a fan on yours? Seemed like a good idea to me so I ordered a little 80mm x 80mm fan as well.
I'm going to go full idiot mode for the power supply/GPIO power off command. I have an unused switch on my center console from when I was running the trans cooler in my car. Was planning on using that for 12V supply and then I ordered a momentary switch to trigger the GPIO/shutdown command. That Mausberry circuit is genius, though! I'd order one up if they didn't happen to be sold out right now.
It's alive-ish! After loading the PiDash OS onto an SD card and buying the incorrect HDMI cable (twice), I got the Pi up and running last night. Ran all the applicable updates and set up the bash script to open up TunerStudio on startup. Set up the declutter "update" to hide the mouse when it's not in use and set up the GPIO command to shut the unit down when the selected pins are grounded. Got my tune loaded and confirmed the Pi communicates with TS. I also got the Pi mounted onto the back of the display.
There's still more to do than not. I still need to:
-Splice in the 12v to 5v MicroUSB and USB-C power supply for the Display and Pi, respectively. The touch function on the display requires another microUSB power input to function but I'm not going to use it. The mini keyboard will be much easier to use than trying to poke the screen through my steering wheel.
-Install the case I got for the Pi unit itself and wire up the integrated fan for it.
-Run wiring to the GPIO pins and switch that will trigger the shutdown sequence.
-Gut my current instrument cluster and cut out the ABS sheet to mount the assembly to.
-Set up the complete version of TS and download a sweet *** dash so Curly stops blowing me up about it.
-Probably do some other things I haven't considered yet.
I love it man, good work! You can do some fun stuff with that little linux box. I wrote a little script that detects when I have internet and rsyncs my Pi's tunerstudioprojects dir to a server, so that I can look at the datalogs and stuff easily later.
I also considered adding a GPS hat to the Pi so that I could use it for nav with some of the opensource linux nav apps out there. I also had an idea to add an audio hat and use it for a media player too. But then I get sidetracked and work on 1,000 other things.
04-23-2024, 06:27 PM
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