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Did TNIA at AMP tonight. Best lap was 1:45, 5(!) seconds faster than my best two months ago. Crazy part is that I didn’t have a single clean lap all night, thanks to Porsche and Mustang dipshits who don’t give point-by’s. Nonetheless, I was faster than pretty much everyone in the intermediate group. I’m certain that I would have been running 1:42’s or better if I had more track.
The brake proportioning valve is really nice. Adding some rear brake cut my braking distances significantly.
Thanks. Here was my fastest lap. I had been up Boxter douchebag's tailpipe for three laps at this point, the guy just refused to point me by. My Iphone data logger tells me I would have picked up another three seconds with a clear track.
I had another track day at Barber this weekend. The weather was 86 degrees and breezy, pretty much perfect. I ran with Chin Motorsports this time, which was excellent. It seems to be a little higher end than the other groups I've done, there were a lot of really fast drivers in nice cars- a few Ferrari's, 911 GT3 RS's, GT-R's, etc. There were only three or four Miatae, all of them race cars. You get a ton of track time with this group, four 30 minute sessions per day and a 45 minute "happy hour" at the end.
Typical SM lap times at Barber are in the 1:50-1:52 range. By the last session I was consistently putting down 1:55-1:56 laps. This was my fastest at 1:54.63. With all the track time I've gotten this summer, my skills have improved quite a bit.
I had a few issues with the car. I have a small brake fluid leak at a flare connector on my new proportioning valve; probably sloppy work that I need to re-do. However, as I get faster, I'm starting to hit some other limits. I boiled my brake fluid again, this time brand new Motul RBF-600. I'm going to take that as a sign that my stock 1.6L brakes have given as much as they can give, and can't shed heat fast enough. I also started to feel like I was down a bit on power as the day went on. After the last session I noticed that the front two nuts on my turbo flange were loose, I'm assuming the studs stretched.
This was also the first time I've run 30 minute sessions, and I started to overheat towards the end of the session. Maybe this has to do with the fact that I was blowing some hot exhaust into the engine bay?
As for now, my plan is to get some inconel studs and a big brake kit from TSE. I need to figure out if the big brakes will fit under my 15x8 Konig Dial-In wheels though.
Looks like you are trying to bake the heater hoses and a few other rubber bits until they fail, too. They do fail.
If the exhaust manifold, turbine, or downpipe are within direct line of sight of the component then it is receiving radiant heat and is subject to failure. Track is not street. You will melt the speedo cable and throttle cable in dramatic fashion also.
It is also possible your boiling of brakes is the left front wheel's metal line along the framerail by the turbine unless it is amply shielded. Or the metal lines from the proportioning valve to above the heater hoses.
I do have a heat shield that I fabricated, although that picture does not show it clearly. How does this look to you?
Since this picture was taken, I routed the crankcase vent hose away from the EM and I got rid of the zip-tie shown between the shield and the brake hard line, there's a bit of space there now.
In the circled locations you can see an unshielded left front brake line. It travels inboard of the frame rail and the turbine and downpipe are right next to it. It should be shielded and/or sleeved all the way down to where it turns into the wheel well.
Additionally, the factory sees fit to cover the manifold with a heat shield. If you are making twice as much power you are creating roughly twice as much heat by burning twice as much fuel and air. Your manifold will glow bright red when you are under a heavy load and will give off huge amounts of radiant heat to anything in direct sightlines of it. Rubber will become degraded and fail. My plastic dipstick handle melted at 220whp and put molten plastic in the oil. That destroyed my engine. Good times. My speedo cable melted and my throttle cable got sticky. Brake lines and CAS are right in that area so I shielded them also. Visual aid included.
I just pulled my wheels off to check the front brakes. After only eight 20-30 minute track sessions, the GLOC pads have only 5mm left- probably not enough to squeeze another track day out of them. Dammit. I’m not buying another set of expensive 1.6L pads only to kill them in two track days.
While I was there, I printed out the template from TSE to see if their big brake kit would fit my wheels. If anyone cares, it appears that the TSE 11.75” BBK will indeed fit under a Konig Dial-In 15x8 +25 wheel. Looks like Andrew is getting a nice order from me. Getting faster sure gets expensive.
Also stupid AF, because I put on one of the brake line adapters backwards and cross threaded the line. So now I have to wait to get a new line and adapter from TSE.
Also got their relocation brackets, 1.8 brackets and sport rotors, and did the rears. This job took more work with the angle grinder than I would have guessed.
08-22-2018, 10:39 PM
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