Nothing to see here, just project Sisyphus, move along
06-24-2015, 12:03 AM
#1443
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
Work PC & Home Desktop=Windows 7 64bit.
Laptop=OSX
I hate OSX when it comes to getting work done or gaming or just in general really anything productive.
For some reason though, my laptop has to be an Apple, always has been. May be just how good they look but also when it comes to web browsing and media things I enjoy using it much more.
Plus...11+ hour battery life on the Air.
Besides the laptop, Apple can suck a large fat one. Android/windows fanboi.
*edit* Windows based laptops are looking pretty damn aesthetically pleasing these days.
Laptop=OSX
I hate OSX when it comes to getting work done or gaming or just in general really anything productive.
For some reason though, my laptop has to be an Apple, always has been. May be just how good they look but also when it comes to web browsing and media things I enjoy using it much more.
Plus...11+ hour battery life on the Air.
Besides the laptop, Apple can suck a large fat one. Android/windows fanboi.
*edit* Windows based laptops are looking pretty damn aesthetically pleasing these days.
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06-24-2015, 07:21 AM
#1445
Boost Czar
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,499
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Squirts per Cycle is ignored if you're running sequential injection.
1 squirt/sim. or 2/alt. should be exactly the same--it should not allow you to select 2/alt. And even if you set it wrong, the only thing it should do is mess up your DC% calculation in logs not your actual AFRs, Pat.
1 squirt/sim. or 2/alt. should be exactly the same--it should not allow you to select 2/alt. And even if you set it wrong, the only thing it should do is mess up your DC% calculation in logs not your actual AFRs, Pat.
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06-25-2015, 05:46 PM
#1446
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 6,594
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Got the shift **** today, G. And the insulators as well. Thank you for that.
The good news is, the threads are pretty much okay. Only one small section was buggered up, and once I ran the tap through it a couple of times, it's okay. Screws right on. I suspect you had a small burr on the shaft and it caught on the thread. I'd suggest teflon tape to reinstall.
Gouges from the pliers are pretty deep (don't you have a strap wrench?), but I'm sure I can take them out with no trouble. However, it's going to leave a bare ring around the middle. So, do you want the whole thing polished smooth/shiny? Leave it bare or try to blue it? Stainless doesn't tend to take bluing well, but maybe that's just my lousy home method.
And, as I mentioned before, I can take it to work and have them nickel plate it, but some people are allergic to it; causes dermatitis in some cases. Also, it will yellow over time if you don't polish it once in a while (insert obligatory **** polishing joke) to remove the oxidation.
Lastly, I can try to re-blacken it. Not sure how, but I'd like to try some things. I won't charge you for it, as it's something I've been wanting to experiment with for some of my model engines.
Think about it, and tell me what you'd like.
The good news is, the threads are pretty much okay. Only one small section was buggered up, and once I ran the tap through it a couple of times, it's okay. Screws right on. I suspect you had a small burr on the shaft and it caught on the thread. I'd suggest teflon tape to reinstall.
Gouges from the pliers are pretty deep (don't you have a strap wrench?), but I'm sure I can take them out with no trouble. However, it's going to leave a bare ring around the middle. So, do you want the whole thing polished smooth/shiny? Leave it bare or try to blue it? Stainless doesn't tend to take bluing well, but maybe that's just my lousy home method.
And, as I mentioned before, I can take it to work and have them nickel plate it, but some people are allergic to it; causes dermatitis in some cases. Also, it will yellow over time if you don't polish it once in a while (insert obligatory **** polishing joke) to remove the oxidation.
Lastly, I can try to re-blacken it. Not sure how, but I'd like to try some things. I won't charge you for it, as it's something I've been wanting to experiment with for some of my model engines.
Think about it, and tell me what you'd like.
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06-25-2015, 06:14 PM
#1447
Got the shift **** today, G. And the insulators as well. Thank you for that.
The good news is, the threads are pretty much okay. Only one small section was buggered up, and once I ran the tap through it a couple of times, it's okay. Screws right on. I suspect you had a small burr on the shaft and it caught on the thread. I'd suggest teflon tape to reinstall.
Gouges from the pliers are pretty deep (don't you have a strap wrench?), but I'm sure I can take them out with no trouble. However, it's going to leave a bare ring around the middle. So, do you want the whole thing polished smooth/shiny? Leave it bare or try to blue it? Stainless doesn't tend to take bluing well, but maybe that's just my lousy home method.
And, as I mentioned before, I can take it to work and have them nickel plate it, but some people are allergic to it; causes dermatitis in some cases. Also, it will yellow over time if you don't polish it once in a while (insert obligatory **** polishing joke) to remove the oxidation.
Lastly, I can try to re-blacken it. Not sure how, but I'd like to try some things. I won't charge you for it, as it's something I've been wanting to experiment with for some of my model engines.
Think about it, and tell me what you'd like.
The good news is, the threads are pretty much okay. Only one small section was buggered up, and once I ran the tap through it a couple of times, it's okay. Screws right on. I suspect you had a small burr on the shaft and it caught on the thread. I'd suggest teflon tape to reinstall.
Gouges from the pliers are pretty deep (don't you have a strap wrench?), but I'm sure I can take them out with no trouble. However, it's going to leave a bare ring around the middle. So, do you want the whole thing polished smooth/shiny? Leave it bare or try to blue it? Stainless doesn't tend to take bluing well, but maybe that's just my lousy home method.
And, as I mentioned before, I can take it to work and have them nickel plate it, but some people are allergic to it; causes dermatitis in some cases. Also, it will yellow over time if you don't polish it once in a while (insert obligatory **** polishing joke) to remove the oxidation.
Lastly, I can try to re-blacken it. Not sure how, but I'd like to try some things. I won't charge you for it, as it's something I've been wanting to experiment with for some of my model engines.
Think about it, and tell me what you'd like.
*brain exploded from all possible inuendos
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06-25-2015, 08:14 PM
#1448
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Location: Rochester, NY
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G sent me the shift **** he marked up taking it off with a pipe wrench or something like it. I volunteered to restore it.
Innuendo when discussing ***** & shafts is inevitable. And it makes me feel naughty.
Innuendo when discussing ***** & shafts is inevitable. And it makes me feel naughty.
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06-26-2015, 11:56 AM
#1450
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^^ Thread needs more of this. Hell, forum needs more of this 
Thanks Roger! I ordered a M10x1.25 die last week to try to fix the shifter. Sadly, my freehand thread lead skills are not what they used to be. I can get a stock shift **** back on it, but only because its plastic. The MR angled extender that came with my shifter will not thread up.
And I do have a strap wrench. Or I should say, I DID have a strap wrench. I broke the strap trying to remove the ****. If you want to play with it, blacken away! You can't really hurt it any more than I did
Thanks Roger! I ordered a M10x1.25 die last week to try to fix the shifter. Sadly, my freehand thread lead skills are not what they used to be. I can get a stock shift **** back on it, but only because its plastic. The MR angled extender that came with my shifter will not thread up.
And I do have a strap wrench. Or I should say, I DID have a strap wrench. I broke the strap trying to remove the ****. If you want to play with it, blacken away! You can't really hurt it any more than I did
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06-26-2015, 12:15 PM
#1452
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Its a MiataRoadster short shifter, so it was worth buying the die and trying to fix it.
I do have a stock shifter (somewhere) but I'll never, ever reinstall it while I own the MR one.
I do have a stock shifter (somewhere) but I'll never, ever reinstall it while I own the MR one.
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06-26-2015, 12:22 PM
#1454
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um, yes?
Now that its broken I need to buy some sort of other wrench tool to remove the oil filters from my wife's Escape. Stupidest oil filter location EVER.
Now that its broken I need to buy some sort of other wrench tool to remove the oil filters from my wife's Escape. Stupidest oil filter location EVER.
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06-26-2015, 12:37 PM
#1456
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Yes. Transverse mounted V6 4WD/AWD nightmare under that car.
This is the only pic I could find that even slightly explains how terrible it is. Terrible pic is terrible because it was taken my someone lying on their back shooting up at an angle. The oil filter comes off the block at a 45° angle if that gives you any idea.
This is the only pic I could find that even slightly explains how terrible it is. Terrible pic is terrible because it was taken my someone lying on their back shooting up at an angle. The oil filter comes off the block at a 45° angle if that gives you any idea.
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06-26-2015, 04:34 PM
#1457
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Location: Rochester, NY
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Wish you were closer. I could fix that sumbitch right up.
Quick question: can I install a wideband sensor (Bosch) and run the car without hooking it up for a day or two? I don't have a plug for the bung, and I want to drive the car. But I also don't want to screw up the sensor.
Quick question: can I install a wideband sensor (Bosch) and run the car without hooking it up for a day or two? I don't have a plug for the bung, and I want to drive the car. But I also don't want to screw up the sensor.
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06-26-2015, 04:51 PM
#1460
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Stock ecu or ms?
I mean, maybe? I have no idea if its good for the sensor or not. A couple years ago I did this when I switched from my MS to the stock ECU for smog. I was in a rush so I just left the wideband in there to plug the hole and not hooked up to anything. Obviously the narrowband was in another bung to keep the stock ECU happy. I only drove it like that long enough for the readyness indicators to flip. The wideband continued to work after that, but its probably not ideal. After that I just started using a dead narrowband with the wires cut off as a plug
This is just one data point, don't take my word for it. With the cost of replacement wideband sensors being what it is, and with how important it is for that sensor to remain healthy, it might be worth it to just wait for a plug.
I mean, maybe? I have no idea if its good for the sensor or not. A couple years ago I did this when I switched from my MS to the stock ECU for smog. I was in a rush so I just left the wideband in there to plug the hole and not hooked up to anything. Obviously the narrowband was in another bung to keep the stock ECU happy. I only drove it like that long enough for the readyness indicators to flip. The wideband continued to work after that, but its probably not ideal. After that I just started using a dead narrowband with the wires cut off as a plug
This is just one data point, don't take my word for it. With the cost of replacement wideband sensors being what it is, and with how important it is for that sensor to remain healthy, it might be worth it to just wait for a plug.
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