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Old 06-29-2015, 04:15 PM
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<p>Idk, i get a lot of weird errors with bluetooth. And they actually use a different RS-232. The megasquirt uses the 9 pin 12v rs232 standard where that bluetooth chip looks like it uses 3v. This is the cheapest bluetooth solution I've found:&nbsphttp://;http://www.msextra.com/forum...22&amp;t=43883</p><p>Overall I just prefer usb for the reliability.</p>
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:20 PM
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Cables it is! I ordered a bunch, lets see if I can **** this up.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K
Cables it is! I ordered a bunch, lets see if I can **** this up.
I bought 3 or so different versions of the super cheap otg cables from amazon to drive my Nikon with my nexus 5. Everyone of them worked. It's pretty simple as they just put in a different id resistor I think. As far as shadow dash, well I'm no help there
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:13 PM
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<p>Shadow Dash for logging. MSDroid for tuning.</p><p>You can log into shadowtuner.com on your phone and upload logs.</p>
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gesso
to drive my Nikon with my nexus 5.
What sorcery is this?
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:32 PM
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Ok, maybe one of you guys who is smarter can look at this and tell me where I done goofed something up.

Attached:
  • StupidTune.msq - my current tune
  • StupidStart.msl - "cold" start log
  • StupidIdle.msl - idle once its warmed up

StupidStart isn't as cold as I'd like it to be, but it was a warm day today. Note that near the end of the log my ADD got the better of me and I changed my target idle from 950 to 850. I probably shouldn't have done that while logging but oh well.

The idle log shows that other than some lean tip in when reved, my idle returns and AFRs are stable once warmed up. Scary stable if I'm honest.

It should be noted that I am a hack when it comes to this stuff. Please provide constructive criticism where applicable. TIA!
Attached Files
File Type: msq
StupidTune.msq (177.4 KB, 128 views)
File Type: msl
StupidStart.msl (1.51 MB, 94 views)
File Type: msl
StupidIdle.msl (269.2 KB, 107 views)
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:15 PM
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So in the last 7 minutes I did all these things:

Go outside and start car, idles at 15.6:1 - lolwut?
Install COPs and start car, idles at 16.8:1 - um, okay...
Reinstall stock coil pack and start car, idles at 17.9:1 - ¿Qué?

So the good news is the COPs work. The bad news is my car is really shitting the bed when it heatsoaks? I'm rather disturbed that it started doing this just now and never gave me trouble before. Now I has a sad.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:16 PM
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<p>Only difference is injectors right?</p>
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:33 PM
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As of when? Injectors were installed week(s?) ago. I DD'd it for 2 weeks after the injectors went in. I've changed nothing in the last week or so, I just sat down to dinker with the startup timing thing we all discussed on the last page and I started getting this lean idle restart crap.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:53 PM
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Ok I lied, I switched from my LC-2 over to a MTX-L. It was several days ago and its the same sensor. I did the free air calibration and everything.
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:16 AM
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I always have heat soak for 5 seconds or so on a hot start. Goes away the second I drive/blip the throttle though. Not sure it can be easily completely eliminated.
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:17 AM
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<p>How long does it idle at not 14.7 And is it idling rough? Or smooth?</p>
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:20 AM
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Idle is fine, just a little bit rough, but nothing worth mentioning, usually for around 5 seconds or so then it pulls back to stoich.
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:21 AM
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<p>Lol, meant to ask G. But Jeff thats nothing to write home about. Unless it ticks your OCD I'd ignore it.</p>
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:40 PM
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Sorry, I missed this...

Originally Posted by aidandj
How long does it idle at not 14.7
It goes nuts as soon as ASE shuts off. This is coincidentally almost exactly how long it takes for the wideband to warm up and start reading.

In the log where its solid 14.7 right as it starts up, that's the module sending a dummy signal to the MS while it waits for real data from the wideband... as I understand it anyway.

Originally Posted by aidandj
And is it idling rough? Or smooth?</p>
It idles pretty smooth. Well, as smooth as can be expected for a BP. It was actually smoother on the COPs even running as lean as it was.

Also, I made another log this morning with a 60º cold start. See attached.

Attached Files
File Type: msl
Stupidcoldlol.msl (2.04 MB, 102 views)
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:26 PM
  #1516  
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Why not 2 more seconds (or the equivalent number of cycles) to your ASE time at higher temps?
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Old 06-30-2015, 10:42 PM
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if it idles fine ignore the o2 sensor. There's definitely a possibility that your sensor is still warming up. Tune by feel.
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Old 06-30-2015, 10:45 PM
  #1518  
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Now go install your vent windows.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:53 AM
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Maybe tonight, we'll see. I can't get the Miata out of the driveway with the construction they are doing on my street, so anything other than stationary tuning (such as idle and startup) or fiddling with things isn't really an option right now. Vent windows count as fiddling, but we'll see.

And yes, I'll probably just double the ASE taper (not the % adder, duh) and see what happens.

I discovered last night that my middle timing cover has a huge WTF crack in it next to the bolt hole, and I'm missing all the bolts for my upper timing cover.

Also, my box from Rosenthal failed to be delivered yesterday. If it manages to show up today that will be 15 days from payment to delivery. Time to go check out Jim Ellis again.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:55 AM
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Install vent windows!
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